uneven drywall after repair
#1
06-09-14, 10:59 AM
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uneven drywall after repair
so, I had a leak last year and wanted to attack it now that I have some time. I do have roof damage and need to replace some of the wood and shingles, but have somewhat repaired that so I can do the inside work now.
I have cut out roughly one full sheet of the ceiling, and have replaced it with 1/2" drywall. That is what was previously used.
The problem is that there is high and low spots, as well as even spots. I'm not sure why some parts sit higher or lower and it's rather frustrating. I've read about shims and all but I have already screwed the whole sheet into the ceiling. I'd say the uneven parts at the worst are a little more than 1/8th of an inch. I think some of this is due to SEVERAL layers of paint as well as the applied texture on the original drywall.
Any advice on how to even things up?
I have cut out roughly one full sheet of the ceiling, and have replaced it with 1/2" drywall. That is what was previously used.
The problem is that there is high and low spots, as well as even spots. I'm not sure why some parts sit higher or lower and it's rather frustrating. I've read about shims and all but I have already screwed the whole sheet into the ceiling. I'd say the uneven parts at the worst are a little more than 1/8th of an inch. I think some of this is due to SEVERAL layers of paint as well as the applied texture on the original drywall.
Any advice on how to even things up?
#2
06-09-14, 11:32 AM
I'm having a hard time following what your issues are 
What spots are high/low? do you mean where the new sheet of drywall meets the existing finished drywall? If so, once you've taped and finished the replacement piece the discrepancies should disappear. You'll need to scrape off some of the texture that is adjacent to the new sheet.
What spots are high/low? do you mean where the new sheet of drywall meets the existing finished drywall? If so, once you've taped and finished the replacement piece the discrepancies should disappear. You'll need to scrape off some of the texture that is adjacent to the new sheet.
#3
06-09-14, 11:54 AM
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I'm so busy at work today that my brain isn't making sense.
Yes, the areas where the new drywall meets the existing drywall is where I'm having issues. I was thinking of scraping, which you just mentioned.
the sad part....I write for scientific journals and develop manuals of procedures/research protocols. How's that for a Monday morning brain jumble!
Yes, the areas where the new drywall meets the existing drywall is where I'm having issues. I was thinking of scraping, which you just mentioned.
the sad part....I write for scientific journals and develop manuals of procedures/research protocols. How's that for a Monday morning brain jumble!
#4
06-09-14, 11:58 AM
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Its much less work to shim the joists before you put the sheet up. it saves you a lot if floating and dry time.
#5
06-09-14, 02:20 PM
Maybe the unevenness is because more got wet than you cut out. If you can get to the attic above the ceiling try this. Cut so e pieces of plywood about six inches wide and short enough to fit between the joists with a little room to spare. In other words make it easy to put them between the joists. While you are holding these pieces in place have a partner screw through the old and new drywall so that album three inches is screwed to the new piece and the other three to the old piece. Have him or her push up firmly on the low side with one hand while screwing with the other.
This should even the two sides.
My bet is that when it was wet the gypsum board bowed between the joists and you still have some of that bowing on the original pieces. Now this might not take the bows out entirely but will even the new with the old between the joists.
If my sight unseen evaluation is wrong then disregard this post. After all it cost you nothing and only about five minutes of my time to post it.
This should even the two sides.
My bet is that when it was wet the gypsum board bowed between the joists and you still have some of that bowing on the original pieces. Now this might not take the bows out entirely but will even the new with the old between the joists.
If my sight unseen evaluation is wrong then disregard this post. After all it cost you nothing and only about five minutes of my time to post it.
Drywall can swell/sag when it gets wet. TC's fix may help .... or maybe more drywall needs replacing 
#7
06-09-14, 02:57 PM
Member
I have cut out roughly one full sheet of the ceiling
#8
06-09-14, 03:59 PM
czizzi,
good point on the tapered edge. If it all of one side that is off that is the likely reason. if is butts to butts and tight T the joists and off in between the joists then I blame still sagging rock on the original. if the difference is only 1/8 and is less than about 25% of the perimeter I would probably do it with more joint compound but then I think like a plasterer --easier to fill than scrape.
And I use setting mud for almost everything. I use a lot of five minute mud.
good point on the tapered edge. If it all of one side that is off that is the likely reason. if is butts to butts and tight T the joists and off in between the joists then I blame still sagging rock on the original. if the difference is only 1/8 and is less than about 25% of the perimeter I would probably do it with more joint compound but then I think like a plasterer --easier to fill than scrape.
And I use setting mud for almost everything. I use a lot of five minute mud.
