Wood Ceiling


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Old 07-01-14, 11:32 AM
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Wood Ceiling

Installing 1X816 wood ceiling in living room. Had mind set on redwood because it would certainly go with the rest of the living room décor; however, after getting quotes from 4 different lumber yards and finding redwood is 3 times the cost I am trying to get my head wrapped around the idea of using knotty pine. In either case, sales person said a varnish, or some thing similar, should be applied to preserve the wood, and in the case of pine a stain could be added to acquire the desired tint. Thought I would check with DIY member who may have some experience with either wood. Not looking for a glossy ceiling so perhaps a diluted mixture of a varnish with linseed oil; further, I have not had very good experience w/ staining pine. Appreciate any comments or suggestions.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 12:39 PM
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Two or three coats of oil based polyurethane makes for a very nice finish in my mind. I like gloss but you could use satin finish for the last coat to eliminate the gloss.

It will darken a bit with age.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 12:53 PM
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Since I have no experience using varnish and/or polyurethane products it's probly best to use a couple scrape pieces for sampling the desired sheen. Also have not worked w/ stains but seem best apply a sealer before applying the stain?? Appreciate the input, thank you!!.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 12:56 PM
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I wouldn't stain it but, if you do, pine is one of the woods where a conditioner is advised.

A light scuff sanding (220 grit) is required between coats of poly to ensure the layers are bonded to each other. Be sure to remove the sanding dust before applying the next coat of poly.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 02:13 PM
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Just returned from visiting neighbors who a couple yrs. back installed knotty pine in small bedroom using a mixture of 3 parts varnish to 1 part mineral oil and they commented there has been some slight yellowing, imagine that's going to happen when applying any type coating on pine??

Decided I am not going to stain the pine and just apply 2-3 coats of probly poly. If I understand U correctly, best to go with the gloss and if I decide to tone down I can apply satin for the final coat? I am going to apply coats before installing, wow, ceiling consist of 44 individual 16 ft. boards, 3 coats with sanding in between, this project sounds like it can be labor intensive, may take a couple days. Again, thank you for the input it is very helpful!!
 
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Old 07-02-14, 08:28 AM
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44 16' boards. Hmm... I think we used 8' boards in my former in-laws' house and I would guess the number of them to be 300.

The oil based poly alone will add some amber to the color of the boards and then the pine will darken with time as well. Between the two, that's why I don't think stain is needed.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 09:05 AM
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Roughly 350 Sq. Ft. ceiling. I have decided to go with suggestions and apply 2-3 coats of poly but wonder if using a 320 grit hook and loop orbital sander could be used between coats or is it best to work with the grain and used sheet sandpaper? Is there a particular brand a member has found that works better than another, see where instructions for some brands/types of poly indicate additional coats can be applied after 24 hours; whereas, other's indicate additional coats can be applied after 4 hours, if it best to wait 24 hours regardless I would prefer to wait if it will result in a better job. I am going to have to order product online and have delivered. Input, suggestions appreciated. Thank you!!
 
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Old 07-02-14, 09:49 AM
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I've stained/poly'd or just poly'd quite a few pine ceilings. The main thing is to apply 2 coats of poly [sand between coats] prior to installation. It's a lot easier/quicker to do the work on saw horses versus the ceiling. A 3rd coat should be applied after installation along wit using colored putty on any exposed nail heads and open joints.

Temperature and humidity play a big part in how long any coating takes to dry. You want the poly to be dry enough where you can sand it without plugging up the sandpaper.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 10:13 AM
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I wouldn't use an orbital sander - you're not trying to remove any material, just rough up the surface so this is very little sanding.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 12:18 PM
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Looking at couple brands and unless members have had a bad experience w/ the products no need to respond. Can't thank U all enough; comments and suggestion have been very helpful.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...L._SL1500_.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/219FR6XYTML.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41GA0ZX0YJL.jpg
 
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Old 07-02-14, 01:20 PM
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I can only tell you your first link (Minwax) is what I use; no experience with the other two.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 02:25 PM
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Scheduled to pick the lumber up tomorrow if don't hear otherwise, will pick up the minwax at the same time. Again, thanks to All for the helpful information!!.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 07:09 AM
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I have to chime in that a ceiling is one place I would use water-based poly (or acrylic). It won't yellow the wood on application, doesn't smell/won't make you light-headed or sick, and dries fast. Personally I have had some very bad experiences using oil-based poly indoors in humid weather. As in sticky mess for days. Since you're supposed to have "adequate ventilation", this time of year you will have humidity.
I normally advocate oil-based products, but not when working over my head & indoors.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 08:09 AM
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Interesting, would the same 2-3 coats with sanding between coats still apply?
 
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Old 07-03-14, 09:25 AM
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Yes. The first coat will probably raise the grain somewhat but the fuzz gets knocked back down with the first sanding. If you use a pre-stain conditioner, choose one compatible with water-based topcoats.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 10:06 AM
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I would use oil based poly because I like the color it adds.

Your call on that one.
 
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Old 07-04-14, 03:18 AM
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I also like how oil base poly/varnish deepens the colors naturally in the wood along with ambering some as it ages. Using a waterbased poly is pretty much the same as using oil based [3 coats, sanding lightly between coats] The biggest difference is waterbased will not change the color of the wood any, it just gives it a sheen. You might want to apply a test coat to some scrap or the backside of one of your boards to see if the look is acceptable to you.

While I've used more MW than the other brands you linked to - any of them should be fine.
 
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Old 07-04-14, 10:24 AM
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Have not been able to find samples at lumber/hardware store so decided before making decision I would purchasing a small can of each to test on scrap pieces and see which strikes my fancy. Also, considering applying a coat on the rough side just to act as a sealer?

I was mentioning to my helper I intend to use my nail gun using #18 gage by 2 1/2" brads to secure the boards directly to the studs and she was of the opinion I should use # 8 finish nails?? [URL=http://s300.photobucket.com/user/goatfarmer_photos/media/hmmm1.gif.html][IMG]

Again, can't thank U's all enough the input is very helpful!!
 
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Old 07-04-14, 02:51 PM
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I don't know whether or not an 18 gauge has enough holding power but I do know that the 16 gauge does. Most of your nails should go thru the tongue edge so they aren't seen. Face nails will need to be puttied after the 1st coat of sealer [or before the final coat if you pre finish the boards] IMO hand nailing is too much work!
 
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Old 07-04-14, 03:35 PM
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I could not imagine taking on this task w/ hammer and nail. As usual, after posting question, checked my brad nail-gun to find it will only shoot #18, however, I then checked my finishing nail gun to find it will only shoot #15's up to 2 1/2", so although it may be a bit larger than I would like, if it works w/out splitting the wood, it beats the alternative. Thank you for the input!.
 
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Old 07-05-14, 04:10 AM
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15 gauge should work fine
 
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Old 07-05-14, 08:03 AM
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Well, at least I will get the opportunity to finally use the nail gun, came in a 3 gun set w/ the compressor.

Again, do appreciate U's suggestions and input, I found it very helpful.
 
 

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