Intend installing 1X8X14 knotty pine ceiling and finding several of the boards are bowed and not sure what to do about it. I took a sample piece and using a clamp to take out majority of the bow, I then shot #15 1-1/2 finishing nails and found the nail does not prevent the bow from returning. Out of desperation, starting to throw suggestions around, one being to used a 3rd hand type clamp, apply a line of construction type glue on the stud, used the clamp to take out the bow and then shot a finishing nail in the middle of the board. I am not too keen on the idea considering approx. 550 sq. ft making it an extremely labor intensive project; plus, suspect over time the board will be incline to split, epecially since reside in humid area. I am incline to believe there's really no alternative but to install the boards w/ the bow??? Suggestions, comments appreciated.

 

The best solution would be to return that board [and any others like it] and get ones that aren't bowed .... or use those boards for your cut pieces.

 

I'm with Mark - you're not likely to fix the boards, better to replace them.

 

In addition, 1 1/2" nails only tickle the lumber face nailing. In the tongue, fine. For face nailing you may have to go up to 2". But returning the lumber would be my choice.

 

Unfortunately already applied couple coat of oil base poly on the rough side so return is not an option. At this point, laid a 6x6x16 beam across saw horses, laid a damp painters throw cloth over the beam then set the bowed pined on top of the beam. I then took damp towels and placed them along the top of the pine, set another 6x6 beam on top, folded the painter's cloth from both sides and then used clamps to hunker it down. If there's a silver lining, out of the first batch of 20 there were a few bowed. Actually I ordered the pine from a lumber yard but rejected them because it appeared the wood had already been gone thru. On the way home I stopped off at another yard, who recently received a shipment. I did try and sort out the bad as I loaded them on the rack, if I were to hazard a guess, suspect the high temperature; mid 80's, and humidity; mid 70's, may have contributed to some extent. It seemed as if a few boards were incline to bow during the 20 mile drive home. Going to let the bowed wood set for few hours, remove the damp towels, then reclamp and see if there's any improvement??? If not, the as member mentioned, there are couple sky lights, 2 beams, and recessed lights where I should be able to used the pieces?? Thank U's all for the comments and suggestions!!

I would like to use brads but my gun will only shoot #18's, In sampling the #15 1 1/2" it is getting on the edge where fear going any larger will tend to split the wood.

 

It is tongue and groove such that the adjacent boards will help to stabilize the ones that have a slight bow to them. 18 ga. brads do not have the holding power you need. 16 ga. have a large head and should assist. Shoot the nails in on an angle so that you are toe nailing which will also increase the holding strength. You should be able to install the whole ceiling with all nail holes hidden from view in the tongue.

 

Unfortunately my nail gun only shoots 15's. Practicing with scraps to find the correct location and angle to where the nails will not show. Considering the total area can't imagine hitting the correct spot and angle w/out mistakes, and finding removing the nail aint going to happen. Appears length of 1 1/2" is plenty? Thank U's all for your assistance it is very helpful.

 

I use a 16 gauge nailer because that is what I have but I'm pretty sure I've been around carpenters that have installed 1x T&G with a 15 gauge nailer. Many carpenters prefer them because of the angled magazine.

 

As I mentioned if I am able to hit the right spot and at the correct angle the 15's are working very well, no splintering and found separating the samples can be a bear.

Helper/neighbor, installed pine T&G in their bedroom, slightly different setup, he suggested placing the 1 board in position, leaving a slight space, but don't anchor the board, then install the 2nd board and remove the 1st, explaining he was then able to use a clamp to draw the new board in to position. Hoping I will not have to use clamps but rather use a scrape piece of T&G and tap the next board into position. Should a clamp become necessary I am considering anchoring a 2x4 across the rafters and then use a 3rd hand type clamp and press the board into position figuring using the 1st option could be problematic maneuvering the clamp(s) as the span lengthens; whereas, if the 3rd hand works, it would just be a matter of moving the 2x4 further up the ceiling. Comments appreciated.

 

I have never had to use anything but a scrap piece to drive the boards onto the tongue. I can only say you have a poor batch of wood if you have to use clamps. I hand pick all my wood, so it may be different. I use 15 gauge nails, and as Marksr said, it is mainly for the angle tip. 1 1/2" nails are fine for the toe nailing at the top of the tongue portion.

 

Looks good, just hope mine comes out looking like yours. Couple pic's of the before and not sure there will be any after pic's I am finding increasingly more difficult getting excited about starting the project. Don't expect problems seating the boards. Again, thanks for pic's and comments from U's all.

 

No matter what you go with, you will need to install blocking beside your beams to receive any ceiling material, since they are outside the rafter profile. Just nit picking.

 

Just out of curiosity, is the blocking that you show (across rafter bays) the full depth of the rafters?

Do you have any air flow above the insulation or is this a "hot roof"?

Where in CA are you and what might the requirements for an air barrier be because the t&g pine will not be providing one.

Why can't you cut the worst of the t&g pieces to a length that works and diminish the effects of the crook in the boards? I don't think having a ceiling with multiple end joints is a big deal, especially if it means avoiding any potential for a problem in the future. BTW, what species of pine is this and was it kiln dried?

 

Intend boxing in the beams w/ redwood and was not sure when I should add the blocking to support the T&G. Seems like there are couple options, blocking around the beams, install the T&G, then box in the beam which may eliminate the need to trim around the beams. The other option would be to box the beams then add the blocks, install T&G, then trim??? Finding as a 'do it myselfer' there are occasions when I come across issues I did not anticipate, or consider, probly why I am not overly enthusiastic about starting the project.