Questions on my load bearing wall removal...Its done, how does it all look?

Questions on my load bearing wall removal...Its done, how does it all look?

Ok so I determined the wall between my kitchen and dinning room to be load bearing, did my research and performed the removal. I just want a quick look over from some knowledgeable folks to make sure I covered all ends.

I removed the plaster and lathes, build support walls on each side and then took the wall down. The photos are in order and the diagram below is what I took to 84 Lumber.

I was spec'd for a triple 2x12 LVL beam. Since this would sit far below the joists of the second floor, I wanted to sink the beam in-between for appearance. More reading and more work, but I followed through. After the joists were cut I decided to use 6x6 pressure treated wood for posts...planning this I noticed that the most interior post came down right between floor joists to nothing of support.

So I had to extend a point from there to the basement floor...I read more and discovered I needed a footer. SO I dug it out, hammered rebar in and filled with 5000PSI concrete. Extended a jack post to 4 2x10 squares I cut out and mounted between the joists to sit flush with the floor up stairs where the 6x6 would sit.

I did all this and removed the support wall. Its been a month and no issues, but I want to make sure I don't need any changes before I button it all up. Please see photos and comment!

 

few more photos...

Any issue!?

 

I don't see a king stud on the ends of your header (oops)... and other than sill plates, treated wood isn't usually used for framing. 6x6's, especially treated ones, crack and check, so imagine what that would do to your drywall if you put a few drywall screws into the 6x6. So try not to screw the drywall into it at all. Can't make out what kind of column that is and whether or not it's the minimum 3"... but the bottom needs to be "embedded" in concrete, (not adjustable) and not just sitting on top of concrete, even if it's anchored. Also can't see if the joist hangers are nailed properly, and not sure what those angle brackets are or if they are the right one for the job. (brand/model #) And can't see if the 3 LVLs are all lagged together as they should be, in order to act as a single unit.

 

Ok so I need to get in there and add a 2x6 king stud to each first floor post end? Ill do that. The post in basement is 3 inches and anchored. So that isn't not good enough?

I should support it, remove and then dig up the current footer? Should I use a 6x6 down there as well?

Those stud hangers are pretty self explanatory yea? I installed them the only way they go on. What would be the wrong thing to do?

 

I think all you need to do is make a form around it (such as 12x12 and however high is needed to cover the post base) and then pour concrete around the base of it to make it permanent. If it's adjustable, it's not viewed as being permanent.

The king stud on each end should be nailed to the ends of the header and the trimmers (your 6x6) should be nailed to the king.

Using the wrong nails or screws in the hangers is what most ppl will screw up on. All depends on the type of hanger (brand & model #).

 

Got it, thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Only issue I see is getting behind the post at the exterior wall to add the King stud. I am adding French doors along that wall. I may have to come in from the outside to get to that side. Oh well it needs to get done.

All that aside, I am good to go?

and yes I did purchase the correct nails I remember now, the engineer at 84 specified my needs there. Good looking out.

 

Probably should wait to see if anyone else wants to chime in. They should be home from work shortly.