Installing soundboard
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Installing soundboard
I'm replacing a ceiling with some pine wood panels.
I also want to soundproof it a little bit as the ceiling is comletely open to the floorboards above.
The room above has painted floorboards, no other floor.
The joists are also not level so I need to put in some strapping.
Where in the layering should the soundboard go?
If I put joists-->soundboard-->strapping->panels then there are 2 air gaps.
If I put jpoists-->strapping-->soundboard-->panes then there is only 1 air gap.
I also want to soundproof it a little bit as the ceiling is comletely open to the floorboards above.
The room above has painted floorboards, no other floor.
The joists are also not level so I need to put in some strapping.
Where in the layering should the soundboard go?
If I put joists-->soundboard-->strapping->panels then there are 2 air gaps.
If I put jpoists-->strapping-->soundboard-->panes then there is only 1 air gap.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I was just going to use dry wall unless soundboard would be better?
I would intall it with screws onto the strapping probably but it could also be above the strapping.
I would intall it with screws onto the strapping probably but it could also be above the strapping.
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Do you put the Roxul in first and then put the strapping on after?
Also, is there any need to use drywall under the joists if you;ve used Roxul? There would then be panelling underneath the drywall also.
Also, is there any need to use drywall under the joists if you;ve used Roxul? There would then be panelling underneath the drywall also.
#7
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Thread Starter
So, is Roxul better than just drywall, abosrbs sound and also keeps in heat?
I can see through the gaps in the floorboards of the floor above at the moment so is there any need to seal ofs those gaps or will the Roxul do the job?
I'd like to stop dust coming through from the floor above into the ceiling space but also be able to vacuum some of the dust that collects in between the floorboard gaps.
I've heard 2 layers of drywall with green glue in between might also be an option?
I can see through the gaps in the floorboards of the floor above at the moment so is there any need to seal ofs those gaps or will the Roxul do the job?
I'd like to stop dust coming through from the floor above into the ceiling space but also be able to vacuum some of the dust that collects in between the floorboard gaps.
I've heard 2 layers of drywall with green glue in between might also be an option?
#8
Roxul is insulation batts. Drywall is flat sheets 1/2" thick. Apples and pears. If there are spaces between the flooring above, then it must be covered with solid flooring above.
#9
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Thread Starter
The flooring above is the final flooring though...it is painted floorboards.
I thought maybe adding thin strips of cardboard on the underside just in the gaps but not sure if that passes building code.
I thought maybe adding thin strips of cardboard on the underside just in the gaps but not sure if that passes building code.
#11
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Thread Starter
to completely fill the 16inches between joists or just glue it to the underside to fill in the gaps in between floorboards?
#13
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Thread Starter
How do you secure the foam in place especially if the joists move a little bit under load from walking across them?
Eventually, this might push a tight fitting styrofoam loose?
Eventually, this might push a tight fitting styrofoam loose?
#17
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Thread Starter
The problem I have is that the 2 ends of the walls are panelled but they are not lined up correctly. So, if I run panels along the ceiling in a straight line, then it will look like everything is misaligned as the 7inch wide panel on the ceiling will not line up with the 7inch wide panel on the walls.
Also, there are wires that have been fished, if I move these to holes in the joists, I am worried that there will not be enough wire to reach the outlets or junction box. Can I just secure the wires alongside the strapping?



Also, there are wires that have been fished, if I move these to holes in the joists, I am worried that there will not be enough wire to reach the outlets or junction box. Can I just secure the wires alongside the strapping?




#18
Forum Topic Moderator
I don't know what the code is in regards to the wiring but you need more strapping if you wish to attach the ceiling to it. 16" centers is best but absolutely not more than 24" centers.
#19
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Thread Starter
No, I haven't put any strapping on yet, that is some old strapping for the original suspended ceiling.
#21
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Thread Starter
Yep, it's a bedroom above so not much weight.
They are pine - I think 7 inches wide around 3/4 thick.
The joists even have some bark on them!
They are pine - I think 7 inches wide around 3/4 thick.
The joists even have some bark on them!
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Is cardboard not allowable under building code? Just looking for a cheap option as Styrofoam seems more for insulation?
#23
Group Moderator
What is it you think the cardboard would do for you? I don't see a problem with it but I'm just not figuring out where it fits in the overall solution.
#24
Member
Thread Starter
I'm simply trying to block the gaps in between floorboards so that dust does not style in the cavity when I then create a ceiling from below with drywall and planks. The cardboard between floorboards on the floor above would allow me to vacuum dust out. I did also want to soundproof between floors but the drywall should do a bit.
#25
Without flooring or plywood on top of your subflooring, you won't be able to stop stuff from falling through. Not sure why you only have subflooring anyway.
#26
Member
Thread Starter
I think when it was put in originally it was put in as cheaply as possible.
So, the subfloor (pine planks) is also the primary floor.
I don't see a problem with that in a kind of rustic look but the gaps are obviously bigger.
Even with a hardwood floor over it, some dust would get into the cavities?
There must be some way to stop that or insulate against it from underneath?
So far, I have
-cardboard, which some said I couldn't use but not sure why not (water damage maybe). Would have to be glued/nailed to the underside of subfloor.
-styrofoam cut to fit in between joists - more expensive and might move over time with the joists flexing. Secured with cleats, nails or something.
-drywall - heavier and probably more expensive but has some soundproofing properties. Screwed into subfloor or secured with cleats. Makes it more difficult to pull up sibfloor from above in future.
- Roxall - very expensive and dust would collect.
So, the subfloor (pine planks) is also the primary floor.
I don't see a problem with that in a kind of rustic look but the gaps are obviously bigger.
Even with a hardwood floor over it, some dust would get into the cavities?
There must be some way to stop that or insulate against it from underneath?
So far, I have
-cardboard, which some said I couldn't use but not sure why not (water damage maybe). Would have to be glued/nailed to the underside of subfloor.
-styrofoam cut to fit in between joists - more expensive and might move over time with the joists flexing. Secured with cleats, nails or something.
-drywall - heavier and probably more expensive but has some soundproofing properties. Screwed into subfloor or secured with cleats. Makes it more difficult to pull up sibfloor from above in future.
- Roxall - very expensive and dust would collect.
#27
Group Moderator
You're not going to stop the dust from getting through from below - this is the same process as people who wanted to stop water getting in their basement by painting the inside wall. You need to put something over the boards so the crud can't get between the boards in the first place.
#28
Member
Thread Starter
The floor is painted and finished now so the only option seems to be from underneath without an expensive hardwood flooring put on top.
#29
Forum Topic Moderator
Even with a hardwood floor over it, some dust would get into the cavities?
The floor is painted and finished now