Back Splash Tile


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Old 10-07-14, 01:44 PM
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Back Splash Tile

I would like to install a back splash tile panel above the kitchen stove. The wall is drywall, textured, and painted and I am not sure if I can install a splash guard directly on to the textured wall. It's a small area, approx. 28" l(side to side) and 12" w (top to bottom). I have seen the decorative panels of various lengths and widths but found they can get expensive. I have some extra ceramic tile left from another project and thought about setting it onto wall board then attaching the panel to the wall but then there's the issue of how to make a wood frame and attach the panel to the wall. Finally, seen individual 4by, or 6by 'stick on' tiles made of different types of material.

Any info, comments, or suggestions would be appreciated!!.

Thank you, dave
 
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Old 10-07-14, 02:43 PM
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The area behind the stove will be subject to extremes in temperature that may adversely play on the adhesives used in the "stick on" type coverings. Therefore, I would be against recommending anything other than the use of thinset mortars that you mix from a dry powder - i.e. a cement based approach.

How aggressive is the texture on the wall? Pictures would help - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 10-07-14, 04:03 PM
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It's a relatively mild 'knock-down' texture; hopefully, it will allow for installing tile directly to the wall. I mention this because since posting, and if it's possible, rather, than tiling just the area above the stove 'she who must be obeyed' would like the tile to extend the length of the wall, which includes the stove and above the kitchen sink area, a total of approx. 8 ft.

Thank you for the comment, greatly appreciated!!
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:15 AM
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Tile gets applied over painted drywall in dry locations all the time. If the paint has a sheen, it would be a good idea to scuff sand it before applying the thinset.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:35 AM
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It appears there's no special preparation other than use an adhesive to secure the tile to the wall. Imagine scuffing would help, just not sure I have the barriers to take a sander to 8' x 10" section of the kitchen wall??

Thanks to all for comments and suggestions, greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:39 AM
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No need to use a sander, all you need to do is take sandpaper and run it over the paint to scratch it giving the thinset more bite to the wall. Just a quick hand sanding with 80 grit or 120 grit is all that is needed.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:42 AM
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Can't thank enough for the help!!
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:44 AM
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Truth is, it depends on what you intend to accomplish. Most back splashes have electrical outlets and switches that need to be attended to with box extenders. For my backsplahes, I like to move the outlets out of the way so that we have a free slate to work in glass mosaics without having to deal with unsightly plug outlets. Therefore, I usually, remove the drywall, reposition the outlets closer to the bottom of the backsplash and turn them horizontal. I then install 1/4" backer, the tile over that and finish with a schluter strip flush with the adjacent wall. The tile becomes inset relative to the other walls instead of an overlay that is finished with bullnose. The glass mosaics or medallions that are worked into the design now become the hero and the plugs get minimized in the overall view. I also take the time to wire for undercabinet lighting, if desired, while the wall is open.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 03:52 AM
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I did the same thing. That was over 30 years ago. Never had a tile come loose or discolor. I did no special preparation. Go for it.
 
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Old 10-08-14, 04:53 AM
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Expect I will install the tile approx. 1/2 to 2/3's up from the counter top. Had I thought about it at the time I would not have gone overboard with the number of electrical outlets, if decide to do the entire 8' length then looking at 3/ three gang outlets, which include above counter light. Being a 'do it myself' novice I decided to go with adjustable electrical outlets, found they can be recessed behind the drywall, or removed leaving the metal bracket attached to the stud which helped when I needed to make adjustments or repairs. Installed ceramic tile on walls of our free standing wood stove placed in a corner and purchased a cheap ceramic tile cutter for the project so if there's any cutting I should be able to get the cuts fairly close.

Again, thanks to all for the very helpful comments and suggestions, greatly appreciated.
 
 

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