When putting up drywall, how do you make the edges of sheets stay smooth?
#1
10-10-14, 04:25 PM
When putting up drywall, how do you make the edges of sheets stay smooth?
I've seen videos adding support where seems are and some that don't.
When I put up my sheets I put wood behind the seams so that I can screw them in.
I use tape and sand down.
Everything looks great before I paint, but once the paint goes on, it turns to crap.
Looks aweful, so many spots that aren't smooth.
What's the trick to smooth drywall?
Thanks for any tips.
When I put up my sheets I put wood behind the seams so that I can screw them in.
I use tape and sand down.
Everything looks great before I paint, but once the paint goes on, it turns to crap.
Looks aweful, so many spots that aren't smooth.
What's the trick to smooth drywall?
Thanks for any tips.
#2
10-10-14, 04:41 PM
Member
Thin layers that go out progressively farther. Finish with a 12" knife and bend the knife as you drag the mud so that it is thin as a hair at the edge and slightly thicker in the middle. Drag like this on one side, flex the knife the other way on the other side and then gently pull the knife across the center without flex or bend in either direction. Another key is that the knife is cleaned after each pull. Unless you are loading mud on the wall, your knife always pulls from a clean state.
#3
10-10-14, 04:58 PM
In my experience a good drywaller can finish in 3 coats, I'm not there yet and probably never will be. But I'm learning. One key is to NOT apply too much mud at any one time. I have passed the point of sanding, except for a light pass after the final coat. But when I hear sanding to make things smooth I know too much mud is being applied.
Backing up the seams isn't bad, but its purpose is to prevent someone from pushing hard and breaking that seam, not to make it smooth. 1/2" drywall at 16" on center will line up nicely.
Bud
Backing up the seams isn't bad, but its purpose is to prevent someone from pushing hard and breaking that seam, not to make it smooth. 1/2" drywall at 16" on center will line up nicely.
Bud
#4
10-11-14, 04:47 AM
As mentioned finishing drywall normally takes 3 coats with each coat being wider than the previous. You can use a straightedge or a bright light to help you determine if the drywall is ready for primer. A close inspection of the drywall while the primer is wet will also help you spot defects - remember where they are, address those areas after the primer dries and recoat those repairs with primer before progressing to the finish paint. Flat paints are more forgiving than enamels. The shinier the paint, the more light will reflect highlighting any defects in the wall.
#5
10-15-14, 04:39 PM
Those are some awesome tips. I will write those down and try to apply them to a small project.
One more question about placement of the drywall.
Do you need to place some wood behind them at each seam?
I've seen two sheets butted up against each other on one stud but when I try that approach, the screws have to be placed so close to that edge of the drywall that the edge of the drywall usually breaks off when the drywall screw gets flush.
If that's the best way to place them, how do you not break your drywall?
Thanks again!
One more question about placement of the drywall.
Do you need to place some wood behind them at each seam?
I've seen two sheets butted up against each other on one stud but when I try that approach, the screws have to be placed so close to that edge of the drywall that the edge of the drywall usually breaks off when the drywall screw gets flush.
If that's the best way to place them, how do you not break your drywall?
Thanks again!
#6
10-15-14, 04:50 PM
Member
You need to be careful driving screws on a shared stud butt or tapered joint. Drywall screw guns have a guard built into the screw bit that prevents you from over driving the screws. You can buy a drywall bit for your drill that sets the screws to the correct depth without overdriving and blowing out the edge of the material.
#7
10-16-14, 03:15 AM
One more question about placement of the drywall.
Do you need to place some wood behind them at each seam?
Do you need to place some wood behind them at each seam?
#8
10-17-14, 03:08 PM
I'm confident my next wall project will turn out much better.
What's even better is that I will actually consider trying again whereas before your help I most likely wouldn't have.
Thanks all.
What's even better is that I will actually consider trying again whereas before your help I most likely wouldn't have.
Thanks all.
#9
10-17-14, 03:25 PM
I'm now renovating some rooms I drywalled 35 years ago and honestly, I wouldn't want anyone to see them and know it was me. Really bad, but I had no expert help as I had always hired a pro to do that work. Then a few years ago I took on a major building and hung and taped 75% of it by myself. 16 ft ceiling with 12' 5/8" rock and I got them up there and taped and painted. The first 25% I had the help of a very helpful pro and wow did I learn a lot. I'm far from the level of a real pro, but I almost enjoy hanging and taping.
The only drawback to getting good a hanging sheetrock is your friends will remember that.
Bud
The only drawback to getting good a hanging sheetrock is your friends will remember that.
Bud
