Hi everyone,

Thank you in advance for your help.

My question, I am going to remodel a rental's bathroom, and the person I have hired is stating we are going to use 1/4 hardiboard for the walls that surround the tub....even though the walls are currently 1/2" thick now...he states that this will allow for a 'better fit' for the tile....(I have purchased porcelain tile)...not sure I understand the reasoning, is this right? I mean, how will the seam look where the tile meets the drywall that is outside of the tub enclosure?

Your thoughts? Does this sound like someone that knows what he is talking about? He also wanted to use some type of pre-mixed mastic for the tile, which also, although I have seen it in home improvement stores, don't think that is what we want to use, and I requested he use thin set...

Please help me

 

Welcome to the forums! Hire another tile guy. 1/2" CBU on the walls, otherwise it will have too much flex. He is worried about the gap between your tile and the tub and he shouldn't. The wall should have a vapor barrier installed first, then the 1/2" cbu to the top of the flange of the tub. Your tile can jump the gap between the cbu and the tub horizontal surface just fine. It will also allow an area where water can't wick up to the cbu.

Mastic virtually never dries, and can be made into mush by moisture. Don't use premixed thinset, either. Find a tile person who will be mixing his own thinset and describes his actions in full. You don't want to do this job more than once. Has he given his contingencies as far as creating cubbies for your soap and shampoo? Has he mentioned RedGard as a water proofing coating in such areas? He must use an approved concrete mesh tape (not what is used on sheetrock) and thinset to span all joints in walls and in corners.

Interested in seeing what happens. Keep us informed.

 

Wow, thanks Chandler. I thought he was wrong. Scary. Now I am really leary, but also stuck in that I have already started demo'ing the walls...oh man....

 

He also had me buy 1/2" hardiboard for the floors, where linoleum is currently..I asked him about that being too thick as the door wont open or close but h stated that it needs firmness so the tile doesn't crack...but the floor under the linoleum is a wood subfloor...so what is he talking about?

 

Cement board doesn't stiffen up the floor any, when that is needed it's customary to add plywood. Do you know how thick the sub floor is? Joist size and span? Normally you use 1/2" cement board on walls and 1/4" on the floor. The bottom of the door can be cut if need be.

 

this is what it looks like before...

I think with your guys advice and the little know how I have I will try it myself...I don't think I would do worse than this guy.....

 

I do not Mark, its a home built in the 1970's , bi-level, brick lower siding upper just for a possible reference.....thanks for confirming what made sense to me....

 

Oh goodness. Are you changing tubs ? Yes there is enough knowhow on this forum for you to hit a home run. As Marksr said, 1/4" on floor, but we need to know the specs on the structure. We're here and willing to help.

 

HAHA, yes, I got a nice American Standard Princeston left hand tub in Linen, and matching toilette!! Its like I have all the pieces, and some know how, I just wanted someone who really knows what their doing so we can supervise eachother...but it seems like I will be relying on your kind inputs here, vs. me schooling the man who wants to use 1/4" on walls...

 

I'm not sure I was ready for those purple fixtures

What is under the bath rm floor? can you determine the joist size and span?

As long as we don't have to work up a sweat in the process but seriously, there is usually someone here [many of them pros] that has done whatever job you are ready to tackle and can advise you along the way. We'll let you know if/when a job is too big for a diyer but most anything can be done if you have the time, desire and some instruction

 

I am going to pull up the linoleum this afternoon, how do I determine joist span without ripping up the underlying plywood?
Directly beneath the bathroom on the first floor is the laundry....

 

That linoleum and any particle board or 1/4 underlayment needs to also be removed if there is any.
Often times I've seen where houses that age used just 1/2 or 5/8 subflooring, may have worked with linoleum, but to thin for tile.
You would need to add more underlayment rated plywood.

 

You should be able to look at the wall placement underneath to get an idea of how much unsupported span there is. If there are floor registers you can remove one and measure the thickness of the subfloor.

 

I pulled a hot pink bathroom set, tub, shower, toilet and vanity sink to do a remodel once. Since they were in good shape, rather than paying to dump them, I took them to the Humane Society Thrift Store. He he he. To my surprise they were scooped up the next day by someone who had "ugly" on their mind.

 

Well, First off, Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, and thank you for your help.

I have made a couple decisions, and I am going to go with them.

Tonight after a great family dinner I went to town on the bathroom. I will try and get as far as my limited skills will get me and all your guys help.

A couple things I found out:

1)The linoleum had a rotten 1/4" plywood underneath.....

2) ripped up the plywood, and, guess what, more linoleum

3)The linoleum (the 2nd one to the bottom of the floor, is laid over, what looks like those 'press and stick' squares...but when I pulled some of it up, there is black mastic-like stuff underneath, so I guess that got to go too?

4) started removing the ceramic tile...this thing was on there really, really good....strange thing is that the walls in the bath had about 3 feet cement board wrapped in mesh, and the rest of the way up, good ole' dry wall...that concrete/bacer board was a bear to get out and made a mess

3) the subfloor looks to be 1" thick, the pic below is where there is an inexplicable opening under the sink cabinet that I also ripped out..no plumbing near it, but man, these people had some mice...

So I will keep working as I took Friday off, and check in with you guys if you don't mind when I have a question...

I figure the demo will save me money and I want to see how far I can go on my own before I had it to a professional...

Thank you all

 

here is a pic of how far I got in 4 hours..and a pic of that open space in the sub floor...so I just fill that with a like piece...there is no plumbing or heating there...

 

I'm just the piano player, so don't shoot. Your subfloor appears to be particle board. Can you confirm that? If so, guess what??? It's gotta go, too. If it is OSB, then it will be fine, I just can't tell for sure. Yeah, the hole in the floor is not explained very well, IMO. Use a product like 3/4" Advantec in two layers with offset seams for your subflooring.

 

You are right. It is particle board. Oh man.

 

Braver man than I for removing old linoleum. Mid 80s and earlier can have asbestos. 1960s almost definitely has. I'm tiling over mine (in the kitchen).

 

HI Everyone...

Just thought I would share an update....

I know critique might be a bit harsh, but I/ we are trying.....

tub out, plumber came in and installed new shower valve and tub....hardiboard went up, floor was covered with hardiboard (I did not remove the composite subfloor, I know that's not what I was told needed to be done but I m really trying
with some handyman help I think we are putting things together..

as for the purple tub and toilet...postd it on craigslist under free and I think I had 10 requests for it in 15 min