Gap Between Ceiling Beam and Wall
#1
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Gap Between Ceiling Beam and Wall
I replaced my tounge and groove wall with sheetrock. However, the sheetrock is slightly thinner than the T&G.
My problem is that the ceiling beams now fall short of the wall so I have a 3/8" gap between the horizontal ceiling beam and the vertical drywall. What would be the best way to fill/correct this gap?
I've been reading up about using Great Stuff and compound but am a little suspect of that. Appreciate any help.
Picture of Gap:

Zoom out for reference:
My problem is that the ceiling beams now fall short of the wall so I have a 3/8" gap between the horizontal ceiling beam and the vertical drywall. What would be the best way to fill/correct this gap?
I've been reading up about using Great Stuff and compound but am a little suspect of that. Appreciate any help.
Picture of Gap:

Zoom out for reference:

#3
Take a 1/4" block of material, and make a plaque or medallion and slide it up into the gap. Thus closing the majority of the gap. You can then easily caulk the remaining gap and finish with paint. Will look sort of like a mounting block. You can dress up the block however you desire with various profiles of trim.
#4
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I agree with Z
Great Stuff will just make a mess and filling the gap with joint compound would be difficult to form it where it doesn't look like a bad patch .... and even if/when you got it looking right it would be prone to cracking.

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Dang czizzi that's a creative solution that I never thought of. I wish I could do that but 80% of the beams are set flush. Just having problems with a few of the ends.
Yeah, I thought the Big Stuff workaround sounded a little too HGTV as well.
Yeah, I thought the Big Stuff workaround sounded a little too HGTV as well.
#7
Make your medallion for the first gap shown in your picture. Slide it behind the beam and shove a couple of shims behind it between the medallion and the wall so that the medallion sits flush to the beam. Now take a pencil and trace the profile of the beam onto the medallion. Remove the medallion and using a scroll saw (coping saw or jig saw) cut away the inside of the traced outline. You now have a perfect profile of what the exposed medallion will look like. Make a break at the 6 o'clock position so you can slide onto either side of the beam and nail/glue in place. Caulk and finish. Now you can get all the beams to look exactly the same - gap or no gap.