put blocks between joist and strapping to lower the strapping.
#1
01-13-15, 04:38 AM
put blocks between joist and strapping to lower the strapping.
I removed the old ceiling, which was suspended from wires and had foam tiles.
The plan is to now put strapping, then soundboard/insulation foam, then wood planks.
The old ceiling has a line on the existing walls where it used to be, which is 8cm below the joist. The walls are wood panelling, so it would be difficult to sand & restain the top 8cm to the same colour.
1 strapping + 1 sound board + 1 wood plank = 3/4inch x 3 or the actual width is 16mmx3=48mm thick. For some reason 3/4 " doesn;t actually measure 3/4"
So you can see I need the difference between 8cm where the line is and 4.8cm.
I was wondering if I could add some small blocks between the joist and the strapping to lower the strapping and then add in shims where necessary to get it to the correct height?
The plan is to now put strapping, then soundboard/insulation foam, then wood planks.
The old ceiling has a line on the existing walls where it used to be, which is 8cm below the joist. The walls are wood panelling, so it would be difficult to sand & restain the top 8cm to the same colour.
1 strapping + 1 sound board + 1 wood plank = 3/4inch x 3 or the actual width is 16mmx3=48mm thick. For some reason 3/4 " doesn;t actually measure 3/4"
So you can see I need the difference between 8cm where the line is and 4.8cm.
I was wondering if I could add some small blocks between the joist and the strapping to lower the strapping and then add in shims where necessary to get it to the correct height?
#2
01-13-15, 05:06 AM
Group Moderator
Strapping is also often called furring strips here in The States. Yes, you could add spacer blocks to get down to the height you need. I would be careful though as small blocks of wood tend to split. It might be easier to just use larger furring strips/strapping. So, instead of using 1" thick strips you could use 2x4's which would give you an extra half inch of thickness and something more sound to nail your wood ceiling into.
Another option would be to attach your ceiling to the joists and then put molding around the perimeter as needed to hide the line from the old ceiling. This would also give you a bit more ceiling height.
Another option would be to attach your ceiling to the joists and then put molding around the perimeter as needed to hide the line from the old ceiling. This would also give you a bit more ceiling height.
#4
01-13-15, 06:08 AM
Group Moderator
I think an extra four or five inches of room height makes considering refinishing the walls reasonable.
#7
01-13-15, 07:01 AM
Group Moderator
Eh, I read this wrong - you'd be looking at less than two inches of gained ceiling height, that becomes less return on investment to refinish the wall 
#8
01-13-15, 07:09 AM
wall is wood planks - I will never be able to get the exact same stain so re-finishing the walls would mean re-sanding every wall, then stain everything, & varnish.
Lot of work isn't it?
Lot of work isn't it?
#9
01-13-15, 07:17 AM
It's hard to touch up stain although it can be done .... not necessarily a good diy job and yes, stripping and refinishing the walls is a good bit of work. That's why I suggested installing molding to hide the unfinished portion. It shouldn't be difficult to match or compliment the wall stain with the stain on the molding.
#10
01-13-15, 08:01 AM
What size screws should be used to secure the strapping plus 2 blocks plus shims to the joist?
We're talking something like 3 x 3/4 inch plus a bit extra for shim, how far extra should the screw go into the joist?
Then there is a layer of fibreboard/drywall, and another layer of wood planks? What screws/nails should be used for those to secure them into the strapping?
We're talking something like 3 x 3/4 inch plus a bit extra for shim, how far extra should the screw go into the joist?
Then there is a layer of fibreboard/drywall, and another layer of wood planks? What screws/nails should be used for those to secure them into the strapping?
#11
01-13-15, 09:19 AM
Group Moderator
You'll have a hard time finding screws longer than 3 1/2" for a reasonable price. What I usually do is screw shim blocks up then screw the furring strips to the shim blocks. That way you can use more standard length screws. It's also easier to work with so you're not trying to hold so many things in place over your head while trying to drive in a really long screw.
#12
01-15-15, 05:15 PM
Won't the screws be very close together?
Essentially I'd have
1 screw into blocks and joist
1 screw into furring and block
1 screw into fibre board and furr
1 screw into plank and fibre board.
That's a lot all in one area?
Essentially I'd have
1 screw into blocks and joist
1 screw into furring and block
1 screw into fibre board and furr
1 screw into plank and fibre board.
That's a lot all in one area?
#14
01-16-15, 05:38 AM
You could always run 2x8's along your existing joisting, screwing them to the sides of the joists and resting them over the plate. This would give you a solid run of wood at the height you need. I'd still use crown around the edges to hide the shadow line and joint.
