Hi,

I am doing a kitchen makeover and a portion of the work is to create a 80 inch opening in the wall joining the Dining room and Kitchen. This 80 inch opening is roughly 2/3 of the total wall width. The wall is supported by 6" studs. I will be removing the studs in the 80 inch opening and install an horizontal beam as this is a load bearing wall. I had recourse from a certified structural technologist in regards to the beam size, etc...

My questions are:

1. As I will be opening (removal of the existing studs) the wall, I will need to put a temporary support wall prior. Is one temporary wall enought or should I create a second temporary wall on the other side of the existing one?

2. This wall opening will happen on the 1st level of my home. Above, on the 2nd level, I have bedrooms, should I move away heavy furniture that is right above the opening wall?

3. Can I put the temporary wall 3 feet away from the existing wall, or do you suggest less?

Your help will be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

Support both sides of opening. 3 foot cantilever is OK. It wouldn't hurt to move heavy furniture away from opening.
Build your walls with 2 x 4's 16" on center. Ensure the wall extends past both ends of the proposed beam.
Ensure the studs fit tight against sole plate and top plate, if cut short use shims. Toenail the studs using screws.
You want to take every precaution. But that said, when you remove the wall there will not be an immediate transfer of load to these temporary walls. The house construction will also help to hold things together for a short period. That's just for info, you need two sturdy walls.

 

In addition to what Handyone said. Make sure you have room or access to get your new beam in place. I did one where I had to bring the new beam into the room first and just set it on the floor until needed because the temporary walls would block access for the big beam.

What structure is below your first floor work area. You want to insure that the floor joists do NOT run parallel to your temporary walls since you'll end up with only one or two joists carrying the whole load. If they are parallel you'll have to take extra measure to support them. If the floor joists run perpendicular to your temporary walls you're generally OK for temporary use.

 

Thanks to both of you for this valuable information.

Yes, my temporary walls will be perpendicular to the floor joists below. Below is my basement, and there is an "I-beam" right below the upcoming new opening where the joists are perpendicular to that beam.

Good idea, about the fact that the temporary walls were blocking the access to the new beam. From the look of it I might have to do the same thing i.e bring in the new beam before raising the 2 temporary walls.

In addition:

Can I please have your advice on the following:

Can you have a look at this little video (see link below):

I was planing on using the same idea for the part where the fellow doesn't fully remove the "gyprock", where the new beam goes. Instead, he uses a reciprocating saw to cut the vertical studs thru the gyprock, just small incisions in the gyprock here and there. When all of the studs are removed, he simply slides the new beam in the new opening and in between the 2 partial gyprock panels.

It appears to be saving time, material and less finishing work.

Please advice, thanks!

Link: How to Remove a Load-Bearing Wall | Video | This Old House

 

Silva knows a lot more about building than I do. That's a clever way to install header, but I don't think it would fly here in California if it were to be inspected.

- There's no mechanical connection between header and king studs, to prevent rolling. I'd like to see a plate, or brackets, or at least end nailing.

- The cripple studs have no fasteners. He did use construction adhesive.

Let's see what others will say about it.