sorry if i am posting this in the wrong place.
i have a rotted wall i am preparing to fix in the spring. i am exposing the inside now, to see how far the rot goes.
I am just looking for advice on what i should check for.
i have a few pics now, as soon as it is all exposed i will post pics on how bad the rot is and then ask where i should start.
this started as a leak in the roof. leaked for years, could not get a fix to hold. leaked where a "shed " type 1 story addition roof butts up to the roof of the 2 story house.
looks like i finally got the leak fixed, now for the wall.
it is a 40' long wall, looks like about 10' is rotted. the first section of interior wall and flooring i took out looks like the exterior wall sheathing is gone. i believe i am looking at the tar paper behind the shingles. which means, my wall is only shingles and dry wall and rotted studs.
wait, before anyone panics, first thing i did was build a temporary supporting wall about 5' back from the exterior wall. 2x6 across the floor and the exposed roof rafters, 2x6 studs. just in case.
there is at least 1" of space between the floor and wall, so some of the interior floor will have to be replaced as well.
also, one section of the wall is the bathroom. tiles, ceramic, i guess, on the walls. can i/ should i try to save those , when i take out the interior wall, to put back on? tiles were put on about 1965.
thanks for any advice.

 

first pic is looking at the wall from the inside. dry wall removed.
second pic is a closeup of the first pic.
third pic is the rotted floor.

 

A pic from further back might be helpful

I doubt you can save the tiles if you have to replace the studs. Did you install flashing to stop the leak?

 

I can try a photo from further back, but it is a small room and i think the tempoaray wall will get in the way and make it confusing, but i will try.
flashing was tried, water went under it. tar, ice dam mats, all tried and failed. house was designed wrong, 50% of the water from the whole roof dumped onto one 10' long, very little pitched secition of 1st floor roof. i think the water just could not get off the roof fast enough, pooled and got under the roof.
i took all the decking off, whole 40', new plywood, replaced a few rotted rafters, then used a paint like roof product from AMES. Gose on like paint, dries like rubber. Used it on another section last year, did not leak even with snow sitting on it, thawing and refreezing, for a few months.

 

photo from further back.
studs from temporary wall are in front.
i took another section of dry wall out, no rot. so, looks like i will need to replace the wall starting from the left of this photo, go about 5' to the right, then about another 5' in the next room. but, i haven't taken out the drywall in the next room yet, so i dont really know what that room is like yet.

in the rotted sections, top plate, sill plate, studs, exterior sheathing and exterior wood shingles are all rotted and need to be replaced.
have not exposed the floor yet, so not sure if the floor joists are ok. crawl space under this room, so inspection from above will be easier.

i will probably replace the window in these photos while i am at it, just because it is about 50 years old.

 

Looks like you are on the right track. Do I understand correctly that you have cedar shake shingles for siding? The siding would need to be removed in order to replace any of the exterior wall sheating.

 

yes, i believe they are called cedar shake shingles. i will post a photo, if it ever stops snowing.

so no other advice on what to expose or check for rot? i should just keep taking out dry wall and cutting back the floor until i hit wood that is not rotted?

again, i am only looking for advice on what to check for rot, what to expose, at this point. repair wont start until spring.

 

There isn't any substitute for opening the wall up and inspecting although a trained eye can make a good guess whether or not there might be hidden damage. I'd continue opening up the wall [now or later] and stop when there is no more damage. Might as well repair it all while you are at it

 

here is a video.
i cut out part of the floor. did not find any rot on the floor joists, yet. i have not opened up all of the floor yet.
this video shows the hole in the floor and the joists.
then i show where i would like to cut the wall, where the screwdriver is,the wall to the right of the screw driver gets saved, everything to the left gets demolished, until i hit solid wood. my plan, unless someone has a better idea, is to demolish the wall, then cut the existing bottom plate , replace the floor, and butt the new bottom plate against the existing one.
next in the video, you will see parts of the floor that i cut out.
what is it, and what should i use to replace it with? I am guessing it is tongue and grove flooring.
since the rotted parts of floor, that i will be replacing, will be about 18" wide, from exterior edge of wall to existing floor, do i need tongue and groove? or can i just use plywood?

https://youtu.be/VbNCkuBDUvA

 

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong but it appears that some of the scrap pieces of wood is plywood [can also come in T&G] while others are solid T&G planks

 

As i was cutting it out, i also thought it was two different types of wood. Which is why i asked. The video is from the bathroom, tile floor. Maybe they put plywood on top of tounge and groove for the tile base?
I mean, dont you put something on top of the floor for tile?
Whatever it is, does it matter what i replace it with?
Thanks.

 

As long as the thickness matches up it really doesn't matter what type of wood you use.
Plywood is often installed over wood planks [or any subfloor] to help stiffen up the floor so there is less of a chance of movement that might cause the tile to crack or grout to come loose.

 

I just crawled under the house. It is tounge and groove planks.
So, it must be plywood on top for the tile.
Thanks.
Anyone have an opinion on my plan for replacing the wall?