Brick Veneer Interior Wall


  #1  
Old 02-09-15, 05:08 PM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Brick Veneer Interior Wall

I am building an interior Brick Floor and 2 brick Veneer inside corner walls approximately 4 x 4 feet each. This will be my setting for a LPG free standing heater in my finished basement.
My question is: What should I use to attach the brick veneer to the moisture resistant Sheetrock wall covered only by 1 coat of primer? I have seen reference to using Thinset Mortar (what I used on the brick base) and also to construction adhesive (liquid nails?).
Thanks for any recommendations.

Name:  Stove Brick.jpg
Views: 2332
Size:  28.4 KB
 

Last edited by ray2047; 02-09-15 at 07:13 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-10-15, 07:05 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 26,333
Received 1,852 Upvotes on 1,658 Posts
I would cut out the sheetrock and put up a backing suitable for tile and thinset like Harie Backer or cement board. Sheetrock might support the weight but the primer will limit the thinsets adhesion. It might work but since you are still in the construction phase it's easy to make nice straight cuts and get rid of the sheetrock and replace it with something more thinset friendly.
 
  #3  
Old 02-11-15, 10:20 PM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the recommendation. Thinset adhesion to primed Sheetrock was my concern. Any thought to using something like Liquid nails instead of Thinset? Otherwise, I will go with a cement board as mentioned. Probably leaning that way anyway.
 
  #4  
Old 02-12-15, 03:39 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,240
Received 759 Upvotes on 664 Posts
Not my field of expertise but I think a lot depends on the thickness/weight of the brick tiles you are using. Not sure I'd trust liquid nails on anything more than a minor repair.
 
  #5  
Old 02-12-15, 05:27 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 6,541
Received 15 Upvotes on 13 Posts
For wall applications you will want to remove the sheetrock about 1/2" to 3/4" from where the brick ends on the walls such that the final border row covers up the transition. Install cement board, tape and mud that section as you would any normal sheetrock seam. So you will have to do some math to figure that out. Remember that you have to account for the overlap in the corner when calculating where the wall bricks will end unless you are cutting the amount of overlap off one side of the wall.

For thinsets, stay away from mastics that may soften from the heat of the stove. When I tile walls, I use one of two extra sticky thinsets. UltraLite or LFT (large format tile) by Mapei. They have high initial grab and are specifically designed for wall tile applications. Grab is diminished the thicker you trowel on the thinset. Meaning, if you use a 1/4" by 1/4" trowel, you may get some sag where as if your use an 1/8" by 1/8" v notched trowel it will stick. All depends on the roughness/smoothness and weight of the bricks.
 
  #6  
Old 02-13-15, 10:01 PM
W
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all for the recommendations. Based on your input I decided no Liquid nails and will use the cement backer. Going with 1/8" V notch trowel as I didn't realize my 1/4" trowel would impact the grab; makes sense now - thanks. Appreciate all the assistance.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: