Question about interior wall
#1
03-27-15, 12:17 PM
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Question about interior wall
I have an upstairs landing that I'd like to turn into a room via an non-load bearing interior wall/door. There's already a ~4' 2x6 wall between the room and the edge of the staircase, which I want to extend to the ceiling.
The problem I have is that the 2x4 in the sealed attic I would attach the header to only overlaps with the footprint of the existing 4' 2x6 wall by about 2 inches.
Can still attach the header even if it's not overlapping as long as I angle my nails into the meat of the 2x4 in the attic and make sure the vertical studs have a good interference fit?
Or do I need to crack open/crawl around in the attic to sister another 2x4 to the existing one?
The problem I have is that the 2x4 in the sealed attic I would attach the header to only overlaps with the footprint of the existing 4' 2x6 wall by about 2 inches.
Can still attach the header even if it's not overlapping as long as I angle my nails into the meat of the 2x4 in the attic and make sure the vertical studs have a good interference fit?
Or do I need to crack open/crawl around in the attic to sister another 2x4 to the existing one?
#2
03-27-15, 12:42 PM
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Go in the attic and add some cross bracing to the ceiling joists enough to support the push of the new wall so that the top plate is secure. You can angle the nails to hit the meat of the current wood, but you usually build the wall tight and you don't want it rolling off the ceiling joists and cracking the ceiling itself.
#3
03-27-15, 02:16 PM
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Would perpendicular bracing between the two closest parallel studs in maybe 8 or so places provide enough support for the wall?
Getting access is possible, but a huge pain since it's completely sealed and maybe ~2.5' at the highest point, so cutting the drywall and adding bracing from below seem preferable.
Edit - It looks like blocking will work. Is 24" on center OK, or do I need to go to 16"?
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/parti...g-joist-65994/
Getting access is possible, but a huge pain since it's completely sealed and maybe ~2.5' at the highest point, so cutting the drywall and adding bracing from below seem preferable.
Edit - It looks like blocking will work. Is 24" on center OK, or do I need to go to 16"?
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/parti...g-joist-65994/
Last edited by roflwaffle; 03-27-15 at 02:44 PM.
#4
03-27-15, 02:49 PM
Member
Anyone else having trouble make heads or tails out of this post.
Really need some pictures.
How do you make a stair landing into a room?
A header is what's over a window or door. Talking about a top plate?
How do you over lap a header or top plate?
Really need some pictures.
How do you make a stair landing into a room?
A header is what's over a window or door. Talking about a top plate?
How do you over lap a header or top plate?
#5
03-27-15, 04:22 PM
Member
Yeah, it is not load bearing so 24" OC is OK as you are just looking at anchoring points. Use a plumb bob to determine the correct orientation of your top plate. Nail the top plate (or screw it off) and then return and add the studs later. Cut them tight and hammer them into place and then toe nail to secure. Better a tight wall than a loosey goosey one.
