Noise level between housing units
#1
04-23-15, 07:37 PM
Noise level between housing units
I took down the cabinets and drywall behind them to see what was there.... behind the drywall was a stud wall then concrete blocks between my house and the neighbor. This is a semi-detached house.
Since I am putting up new dry wall is there anything I should/can do to help with noise from neighbours or form us to neighbours?
Should I do any sort of insulation, mold protection or just through up some styrofoam insulation between the walls to help with noise? I don't want to put anything that could cause mold down the road.
Thanks
Since I am putting up new dry wall is there anything I should/can do to help with noise from neighbours or form us to neighbours?
Should I do any sort of insulation, mold protection or just through up some styrofoam insulation between the walls to help with noise? I don't want to put anything that could cause mold down the road.
Thanks
#3
04-23-15, 07:55 PM
Group Moderator
You're getting noise thru concrete blocks from your neighbor ??
Are there any holes thru the block that are visible ?
Are there any holes thru the block that are visible ?
#4
04-23-15, 08:01 PM
Truthfully I don't know if there is any noise....
We just bought the place and started this work so we haven't been there to hear noises in the event that there was any in the first place. Maybe im just paranoid though... my wife tends sing like a mad women at times and don't want neighbours thinking she crazy.
We just bought the place and started this work so we haven't been there to hear noises in the event that there was any in the first place. Maybe im just paranoid though... my wife tends sing like a mad women at times and don't want neighbours thinking she crazy.
#5
04-23-15, 08:44 PM
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If you already went through the trouble of removing all the drywall, I would recommend 3/8" plywood and 1/2" or 5/8" drywall over that.
The 3/8" plywood (structural I) will serve as a shear wall, whether needed or not, and reduce sound.
This is assuming doubling up the wall will not cause problems with door jambs and such.
The 3/8" plywood (structural I) will serve as a shear wall, whether needed or not, and reduce sound.
This is assuming doubling up the wall will not cause problems with door jambs and such.
#6
04-24-15, 02:59 AM
Door #2. Install Roxul Safe 'n Sound insulation. Waterproof, mold proof and fireproof. Sure it is a little more expensive than fiberglas, but with the walls down, if there is a hint of noise transfer (which is doubtful through concrete block and two framed walls) it would be a good thing to add.
#7
04-24-15, 11:46 AM
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Roxul Safe and Sound is good for thermal insulation as well as sound deadening but if all you want is sound deadening I would recommend Roxul AFF. The AFF is much more dense and does a better job of sound attenuation as well as a superior job of fire insulation. Of course the AFF is also a bit more expensive than the Safe and Sound.
Before you do anything I would try to spend a few hours when you know the neighbors are home and see if you hear anything through the wall. You may not need to do anything.
Before you do anything I would try to spend a few hours when you know the neighbors are home and see if you hear anything through the wall. You may not need to do anything.
#8
04-24-15, 12:16 PM
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Batt insulation of your choice will help reduce the high pitch noises. Bailey Metal Products | Resilient Channel X 12' | Home Depot Canada will help reduce any low-frequency noises. This set up will stop the majority of sound transfer. You can go farther, but the diminishing results won't justify the cost.
