The ceiling of my first floor is making a creaking sound when walked on from the 2nd floor. It sounds like it is coming from the drywall. The sound cannot be heard in the 2nd floor room, only in the room below it. Everywhere online identifies this noise as subfloor, but I can trigger the noise by putting pressure on the drywall on the ceiling, it can't be heard in the floor of the 2nd floor. It will make a single creak, then I can't make it happen again until the spot is waked on. The ceiling is finished with drywall, I am unsure if on channels or direct to joist. If the subfloor was squeaking / creaking, could you make the sound by pushing from below? Would putting pressure on the ceiling / joist below (20-30lbs of pressure, not much.) trigger the sound of a loose subfloor? Normally I would just screw the drywall to be sure, but there are fire sprinkler and hot water baseboard pipes in there and if I hit one I'm out thousands, so checking that it could be drywall (and not subfloor) paying someone $100 with insurance and experience (condo, strata) to shoot some screws in.

We have an entry way closet that never gets used so we are wanting to turn it into a 'mudroom' aka open bench. I removed some sheetrock and found what I expected but before I do anything I would like to get some thoughts on it. I have some local consultants I can have look at it if that's the best approach also. This is right inside the front door of a 1970's cape cod so the roof slopes down to the exterior wall that's seen to the left in the first image. The wall with the closet opening is running parallel to the floor and ceiling joist. The sheetrock I removed is from the interior of the closet so the lighting isn't that great. Since I also haven't removed the ceiling drywall I realize I may be asking a lot. Header board length is 33 inches. This image is for context only (also my phone does a weird half dark/half light thing).The entry door is just to my left and the lip on the ceiling to the right is going upstairs and is similar to a kneewall when looking at it from the attic side. Right above me the ceiling isn't cutoff and goes down a hallway alongside the stairs. The closet only goes about 8 inches to the right from the door frame so I'll never get close to the studs the kneewall is sitting on which I assume are somewhat load bearing in the least due to the board that spans the end of these 3 short ceiling joists although there isn't anything above them but attic space. [ATTACH]51512[/ATTACH] This is the behind the kneewall-ish thing looking down at the relevant short ceiling joists. Between these two looking down is what looks to be the top 2x4 in the next couple of pictures. So it's parallel but maybe still load bearing? I believe the short 2x4 seen closest to me is just to attach the ceiling drywall to . [ATTACH]51513[/ATTACH] Inside the closet looking at the left hand side and then the right hand side. [ATTACH]51514[/ATTACH][ATTACH]51515[/ATTACH] May not matter but I am able to slide a piece of paper between the gray board and the king studs as well as between the gray board and the plywood spacers. So assuming there is enough to go off of, which may be a large assumption, is this header needed? If not, how much top and sides could be removed without any detrimental impact? I Can the left hand jack and king be removed, leaving the two 2x4s, the king on the right and the first stud visible from the left? It wouldn't be a smooth opening but would be even on both sides this way. If the header is needed, could the span be increased to put a jack against the first stud visible on the left? So 33 to 38 for the header board length. Could it be reduced to 2x4s and the gap removed to gain some height or would this be a trade off on the span length increase? Ideally the 38 span using 2x4s to gain some height would be what we are wanting. Similar to this picture that has the jut from the left hand side and the narrow header: [url]http://www.houzz.com/photos/719791/Closet-conversion-into-mudroom-modern-detroit[/url]