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What are my options for taking out a load bearing wall?

What are my options for taking out a load bearing wall?


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Old 06-25-15, 08:51 PM
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What are my options for taking out a load bearing wall?

I'm not exactly sure if this wall is actually load bearing or not but from the looks of what I have observed in the attic and the placement of the studs. I am thinking the wall is load bearing. And since I'm not a wall expert I'm posting on here to hopefully gain some good information and learn. I would prefer to take out all of the studs to make our bedroom twice the size without any posts. But I understand that may not be possible. What are my options and what is the best way to approach this task? Here are some photos of the situation. Let me know if I need to post more.
 
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Old 06-25-15, 08:59 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

It's hard to tell from the pictures.
Are the trusses actually sitting on top of that wall....if yes.... then it's load bearing.
You'd need to bring in an engineer, architect or possibly a framer to look at that.

I'm trying to figure out why the wall studs are set up that way.
 
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Old 06-25-15, 09:12 PM
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Thank you!

Those 2x4's are sitting right on top of that wall.

And I'm guessing that the wall studs are right where the 2x4's in the attic are running across.
 
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Old 06-25-15, 09:26 PM
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Perpendicular walls under trusses are not generally load bearing, and ESPECIALLY not when the wall is not under one of the perpendicular truss webs... That being said, I agree that this may be something you need someone to look at in person. I would like to see a picture in the attic from the far side looking back. It appears you have a doubled girder truss (with larger bottom chord) which is where the roof T's and changes direction and we can't get an overall idea of the structure with only half the roof pictured. The location of any load bearing walls (if there are any) would be directly under the vertical members of a truss web, of which I only see 2 pictured.

I'm fairly confident that it's not load bearing and won't even attempt to explain the goofy stud layout on those walls except to say that it looks like the original studs are not 16" on center (maybe 19.2"?) and the added studs and short pieces of bottom plate look to have been added later, perhaps by a drywaller.
 
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Old 06-25-15, 10:35 PM
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Ok, great information so far! Thank you!

I will snap some photos of the attic from a few more angles to hopefully give a better idea up there.

And I agree with you Sleeper that those extra studs were most likely added by the drywaller. They are a different color than the other studs.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 03:19 AM
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I am with the others in that you should have a first hand inspection. It is an oddly placed wall to begin with as indicated by the closeness to the window and door trim. It would seem to have been installed after the house was built......badly too as Brant noted. Is it possible it is installed right over the carpeting? Can't tell for sure.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 07:23 AM
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Yea I thought it was pretty odd myself that the wall is so stinking close to the window and door. And there is a window exactly like this one right on the other side of the wall. I'm not sure if this wall was installed after the house was built or not.

And no. When I demo'd the drywall, I also demo'd the baseboard trim and there is a gap between the carpet and bottom plate of the wall exposing the concrete substrate.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 07:38 AM
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Looks like a single top plate too, load bearing walls will almost always have a double top plate.
 
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Old 06-26-15, 08:08 AM
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Yes it is a single top plate.

So after all the great information you guys have shared thus far, I'm thinking it's not load bearing. But I will have someone come out here to take a look just to make sure it's not actually load bearing before I start taking out studs. I am still open to more comments, opinions and more information. This is a good learning process for me.

In the meantime, can I go ahead and demo the other side of the drywall? Or should I wait for someone to take a look at the situation first?
 
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Old 06-26-15, 08:12 AM
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I think the wall is original to the house. The ceiling drywall butts up to the edges of the top plate.

You should always have an on site inspection to determine if a wall is bearing. Normally trusses don't require any interior bearing walls, but there are exceptions.

To determine if these bottom chords were intentionally fastened to (or bearing on) the wall in question, can you do a test?
Look for other interior partitions (walls) that do not have trusses bearing on them. This would be standard, to have truss float above interior walls. If you can find walls with gaps between trusses and top plate, that would be a good indication that this wall was intended to be bearing and the others not.
 
 

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