Just closed on the house this Friday, and started work yesterday (Sunday). Went into one of the bedrooms I wanted to paint and started pulling down panelling nailed up during the 70's. Wearing my dust mask while doing this of course. I then proceeded to scrape away paint that was flaking. I wound up scraping off all the paint and left behind the rough plaster substrate, and the holes from the panelling nails, and some hairline cracks.

Can I put joint compound on the whole thing, reapply until smooth, paint with a sealer (kilz latex..alkyd stinks to much)

Thanks for any help.

 

While I generally repair plaster with Durabond, regular joint compound can be used. Regular j/c can't be applied too thick or it will crack [may need multiple coats] and any hole big enough to stick your little finger in along with the cracks would need to be taped.

There are better latex primers available than latex kilz!!

 

Yes except for the Kilz latex, don't use that primer (has known adhesion issues). Zinsser makes good primers from which you could pick an alternative.

 

Thanks guys, what would be the best zinsser choice?

@marksr, what durabond product do you use?

 

I like the 20 minute mud because of the quick turn around time but the 90 minute mud is probably the most commonly used.

The bullesye 123 would be a good primer choice.

 

I can get on board with 123 - have a can of that in my basement right now.

 

Is "90 minute mud" the durabond product name? You're talking to the weekend fixer-upper here guys lol..

The zinsser bullseye 123 is that latex or oil? Which do you use?

 

Durabond is a brand name, Easy Sand is another. They are setting compounds that come in a bag and you mix a portion with water to make the mud. They dry chemically. The bag will also signify the work time for the mud; 90 min, 45min and 20 min being the most popular. Once the work life of the mud is over any excess mixed mud must be disgarded unlike regular premixed joint compound which dries by evaporation.

I don't remember if 123 comes in an oil base formula or not but you want the latex formula.

 

Zinsser 123 Is latex primer.

 

Thanks you guys ! Great help as always

 

OK Guys, this is the Durabond 90 right?

Sheetrock Durabond 90 25 lb. Setting-Type Joint Compound-381630120 - The Home Depot

Also, I have a few cracks..nothing big, but in my research someone recommended this product..

FibaFuse 2 in. x 250 ft. Paperless Drywall Joint Tape FDW8652-U-FDW8652-U - The Home Depot

How/when do I apply the fibafuse? Is it self-adhesive?

 

Yes that is the Durabond 90 minute mud.

I've never used FibaFuse but assume it is used just like the old paper tape [thin coat of mud with the tape pressed in and the excess mud removed] I'm not sure if it has a crease in the middle so you can use it for inside corners. One of our members uses/likes FibaFuse so hopefully he'll have time to respond with more info for you.

 

I like FabaFuse. I sue it almost exclusively for patching. It does have a bull in crease for angles but to use it you must use a birdie, that is an angle tool and I don't like todo angles that way. It cuts too easily to use a knife and alternate sides. It has greater tensile strength than paper. Does not have th racking, cracking problem of woven tape and seems a little thinner than paper though I have never miced it so you get a flatter joint. If you get a little light on th joint mud you can squeeze more into and through the fibers and you don't have to cut out a bubble. I don't use automatic taping tools but with some adjustment it can be use with tools, according to the manufacturers literature. It is fiberglass with th inherent irritation of handling it. My HomeDepot does not carry it in stock or Lowes either. I ordered it from HomeDepot most recently and I have found it at Menards. Even the drywall suppliers here did. To stock it a year or so ago. Maybe they do now. Don't buy the 500' roll. A 250' roll is he same size as a 500' roll of paper and a 500" roll of FibaFuse is hard to handle until it is about half used up.
To summarize I still us paper I angles and FibaFuse for everything else. I don't wear gloves but probably should.
dura bond is very hard and strong. It is very hard to sand. If you use it lay it down very carefully no ridges or rough edges. EasySand is easier to sand. Still lay it down perfectly so you haven't sanding to do and as others have said finish with regular joint compound for the last coat.
FibaFuse is my self adhesive. Maybe some time I will try spraying some adhesive and sticking it. The same company that makes
FibaFuse makes self adhesive mesh tapes. I think there must be a compelling reason they don't make it adhesive for they surely do know how.