Removed tile and had to take out 3/4" drywall.. what now?
#1
12-23-15, 07:08 PM
Removed tile and had to take out 3/4" drywall.. what now?
Hello,
I am trying to remodel my half bath. It had some ugly tile and when I took it down there was a ridiculous amount of glue left on the walls. It wasn't realistic to scrape the glue off so I cut the drywall where the tile began and started removing it. I was hoping to bring in some new drywall to fill in what I've removed. Unfortunately when I measured what's on the wall it looks to be 3/4" (see pic). I went to HD and Lowes but neither carries this size. I've read you can stack two 3/8" pieces to equal 3/4" but I'm not confident that's going to work out. Unless it's absolutely necessary I don't want to take down the whole wall, I'd rather piece in what I removed (it's less than 1/2 of the wall + taking it down may cause me to damage the ceiling). What is the best way to handle this? On the right side of the 2nd pic you can see what the glue looks like and why I had to remove the drywall. Thanks, any help would be appreciated for my next steps!!
I am trying to remodel my half bath. It had some ugly tile and when I took it down there was a ridiculous amount of glue left on the walls. It wasn't realistic to scrape the glue off so I cut the drywall where the tile began and started removing it. I was hoping to bring in some new drywall to fill in what I've removed. Unfortunately when I measured what's on the wall it looks to be 3/4" (see pic). I went to HD and Lowes but neither carries this size. I've read you can stack two 3/8" pieces to equal 3/4" but I'm not confident that's going to work out. Unless it's absolutely necessary I don't want to take down the whole wall, I'd rather piece in what I removed (it's less than 1/2 of the wall + taking it down may cause me to damage the ceiling). What is the best way to handle this? On the right side of the 2nd pic you can see what the glue looks like and why I had to remove the drywall. Thanks, any help would be appreciated for my next steps!!
Last edited by PJmax; 02-11-19 at 09:09 AM. Reason: resized pictures
#2
12-23-15, 09:26 PM
Group Moderator
Is that wall where you removed the sheetrock curved ?
If it is.... using two pieces of 3/8's will certainly make it easier to install.
What will be the new finish ?
If it is.... using two pieces of 3/8's will certainly make it easier to install.
What will be the new finish ?
#3
12-23-15, 09:49 PM
No, it was taken in panoramic view so I could fit everything in the picture. The wall is straight across and level. I just wanted to put up the new drywall, prime, and paint the walls. I won't be using any tile. I just couldn't find any 3/4" drywall to use. You don't see an issue with me just stacking two 3/8" sheets on top of each other to make it level with the drywall that's already there (which looks to be 3/4" from my measurement)?
#4
12-23-15, 09:56 PM
Group Moderator
Using two pieces of 3/8" on top of each other is perfectly fine. You just need to be a little careful at the seams as the the 3/8 will crumble easier when you put the screws in.
#5
12-23-15, 10:22 PM
Thanks for getting back with me so quick, I appreciate the help! This might be a silly question but do I hang the first sheet with one size screw and then put the next one on top and secure it with longer screws? Or do I just stack both and attach to the studs with a longer screw? What size screws do you recommend?
#6
12-23-15, 10:35 PM
Group Moderator
You can hang both at the same time. Maybe one or two in the back piece just to hold it while you get the second one in place. For screws.... 1-5/8".
#7
12-31-15, 01:16 PM
Rather than make a new thread I figured I'd just add to this one. I'm at my next obstacle. My home has a boiler system and I believe I have what are called cast iron baseboards. Obviously this one has seen it's better days and needs cleaned up. For my last bathroom remodel I cut the pipes below and completely removed the baseboard so I could sand and paint it. That's not really an option this time around. For one there are electrical wires right below and it was extremely difficult to solder the pipe back on without damaging them. Secondly my system is a single zone so I'd be without heat if I went this route. I tried to cut the drywall just above the baseboard but I'm afraid when I hang new drywall I will see the line (there's not really room to tape it). Do you recommend me pulling the baseboard forward a bit and removing all the drywall behind it? I think I could slide a new piece where the existing one is but I'm not 100% positive.
Secondly, how do you recommend cleaning up this cast iron baseboard? Should I just use a random orbital sander? Once I can sand it and get the rust off I was going to use the high temperature rustolium paint on it.
Thanks for the continued assistance!
Secondly, how do you recommend cleaning up this cast iron baseboard? Should I just use a random orbital sander? Once I can sand it and get the rust off I was going to use the high temperature rustolium paint on it.
Thanks for the continued assistance!
#8
12-31-15, 02:56 PM
Member
Remove as much drywall as you can, install the new drywall and then you will need to trim it out to mask the transition between the new boards. You can either tuck 1/2 the tape below the level of the grate or dress the area out with trim. You can even have a piece of stainless made to size and slip that behind as a sort of reflector to give additional heat into the room.
There is a product called Ospho that turns rust back into metal or neurtralizes it. It used to be carried by Duron Paints until Sherwin Williams bought them out. I had a bottle that lasted me for years. Finally gave it to a neighbor who used it to acid etch some galanized panels on a shed so he could paint them. SW may still have it or check on line. Sand first and see how bad the rust is. Never fails, heater register near the toilet and you are going to get rust. Box stores carry high temp paint in the spray can isle.
There is a product called Ospho that turns rust back into metal or neurtralizes it. It used to be carried by Duron Paints until Sherwin Williams bought them out. I had a bottle that lasted me for years. Finally gave it to a neighbor who used it to acid etch some galanized panels on a shed so he could paint them. SW may still have it or check on line. Sand first and see how bad the rust is. Never fails, heater register near the toilet and you are going to get rust. Box stores carry high temp paint in the spray can isle.
#9
12-31-15, 06:51 PM
I think you have 5/8" drywall. Even if you truly have three quarters f you put five eights back you will only need to fill out the shallow area. Setting joint compound will let you d that pretty easily. When I looked again at the picture of the thickness it looks like you have not fully stretched the hook on the tape. Another way to check the thickness is to waste a could inches on your rule and measure again.
