I need a miracle removing wallpaper
#41
02-23-16, 11:04 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
I always dry peel as much as I can but don't waste to much time on it, Just easier to get water on glue.
#42
02-23-16, 01:20 PM
Member
Have a stiff putty knife to gently scrap to get an edge of the paper to ruffle up enough to grab it. Don't worry about the underlying paper when peeling initially. After you have gotten a bunch of the top vinyl off and are left with the paper backing on the wall, hit that with hot water - let it set - hit it again - let it sit and then use your stiff putty knife to slide he paper backing off. Then sponge the wall with fresh water to get all the glue residue off.
#43
03-08-16, 04:58 PM
The only thing that worked was the perforator, chemical & steam, in that order. Here are some more pics. Can I sand, use joint compound, prime & paint? Any thoughts or other suggestions. I was trying to avoid new dry wall.
#44
03-08-16, 07:06 PM
Member
Paint it with Gardz and then skim coat it. The Gardz will set you back $35 for a lifetime supply, but it will seal the drywall paper from bubbling when you try to skim it with joint compound. Remove any loose paper, knock down any high spots and then skim coat the walls. You will be OK, just a little more elbow grease. I like to use a rounded corner trowel for skim coats as it doesn't leave ridges. Mine is like a big oval.
#45
03-08-16, 07:10 PM
That sounds good. I was hoping that I could do something like that. The surface is very rough. Should I use an electric sander first or just use a scraper? You can't see it in the pics but there is another wallpaper under it.
#46
03-09-16, 03:52 AM
So there is another layer of wallpaper under all that 
I'd hit the wall with a sanding pole to remove the worst and then prime. Gardz or an oil base primer are the only good options. Another light sanding and it's ready for the skim coat. Don't forget if you thin the j/c a little it will make it easier to spread nicely. I've never mastered a trowel but do have a 12" knife with the edges rounded [filed] to make skim coating easier.
I'd hit the wall with a sanding pole to remove the worst and then prime. Gardz or an oil base primer are the only good options. Another light sanding and it's ready for the skim coat. Don't forget if you thin the j/c a little it will make it easier to spread nicely. I've never mastered a trowel but do have a 12" knife with the edges rounded [filed] to make skim coating easier.
#48
03-09-16, 05:07 AM
You can use an electric sander on what you currently have although IMO you don't need to go thru that much effort. I'd shy away from using any type of power sander on the joint compound - too much dust! The only exception would be those vacuum powered drywall sanders.
The green lid [all purpose] mud adheres better than the blue lid [lightweight] mud which is formulated to go over fresh unpainted j/c.
The green lid [all purpose] mud adheres better than the blue lid [lightweight] mud which is formulated to go over fresh unpainted j/c.
#49
03-09-16, 05:14 AM
I meant use the electric sander on what you see in the pics. I have to do something before I apply joint compound. I'm having a guy who is really good with j/c, look at the job. I might use him as a sub contractor.
#50
03-17-16, 05:41 PM
We made the walls great again.
Here are a few pics of some of the walls after the skim coat, primer & 2 coats of paint were done. A few touch ups are still needed.
looks good 
