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Major fixes - can I use 1/4inch drywall?

Major fixes - can I use 1/4inch drywall?

Old 10-22-16, 04:32 PM
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Major fixes - can I use 1/4inch drywall?

Doing a renovation in a guest BR - the walls will need spackling in multiple places...same for ceiling which has some cracks and minor sagging in a few spots.
For most those problems would be minor cosmetic and probably not requiring any work but I am a bit OC and hate any spots on the walls or even minor imperfections on large surfaces.
Initially was thinking to rip down the walls and the ceiling and just install all new sheetrock all around but then I thought - why not just use 1/4 inch drywall on top of the existing surface?

I am a bit concerned that 1/4 inch won't stay rigid when installed on the ceiling but I am pretty sure that walls should be fine.

Can you guys please elaborate about the pros / cons of doing thin drywall over existing walls / ceiling....

Old 10-22-16, 06:23 PM
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You are correct. 1/4" won't stay flat especially on the ceiling. 1/4" is usually used when trying to form a curve. If you are going for nice flat walls I'd either work with what you have or rip it down and replace with 1/2"

Sagging is best handled by attaching the sheetrock to the framing. So, if there are sags in the ceiling use screws to better attach the sagging area. If the sag was caused by water you may need to replace that section but it never hurts to try a few screws first.
Old 10-22-16, 09:39 PM
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#1, Spackle is only used for repairing things like small nail holes, drywall compound is what's used for skim coating, bedding tape, making bigger repairs.
Need to figure out why it's sagging.
Just a few of the things that can cause it to sag.
Someone used the attic for storage with under sized joist.
Water damage.
Someone tried to get by with 1/2" sheetrock instead of the required 5/8.
Not enough screws where used.
I've even seen where in older homes they used 1" tiny headed, non ring shanked nails, never going to work.
Old 10-22-16, 10:02 PM
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yep...ceiling is sagging slightly simply because it is an old construction; nails were used throughout and the drywall is 3/8.
No water damage

I already did replace all that in most of the other rooms.... but here in the guest BR, I am trying to get "like-new" results but reduce some of the main work.
Complete tear down would suck.... all that garbage and dust from insulation etc....
I was really hoping to be able to use 1/4 inch drywall over the existing walls (3/8) and then possibly 1/2 inch on the ceiling....over the existing 3/8
Then just tape, apply joint compound , primer and move on to painting.....

BTW...Dane; you made it sound that you wouldn't recommend 1/4 inch drywall over existing walls ?
Old 10-23-16, 04:28 AM
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1/4" is fine for laminating over the existing walls. It's best to use adhesive between the joists. I'd use 1/2" if I was going to laminate the ceiling but I'm not sure that would eliminate any sags in the ceiling.

IMO skim coating is often a better solution than another layer of drywall. When you add another layer of drywall that alters the wood trim and electrical boxes would need extensions.
Old 10-23-16, 08:20 AM
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thanks for the tips and suggestion.....Trim won't be an issue as I already ripped off the old one and will put all new trims; base and windows / doors...

Again, my main concern; since I have never worked with 1/4" AND never seen anything finished with such drywall - is that OK for walls and will it give me a flawless "new Look" (of course I realize a lot will depend on how well I will do the taping and cover all screws).
I am concerned that in 2-5 yrs I will see some weird things as the house moves / shifts with changes of seasons (temp/humidity) and other natural movements....and the 1/4" drywall starts to "fight" with the existing drywall etc...
Old 10-23-16, 09:24 AM
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I see no problem with adding a 1/4" layer on the walls, but I think it makes your job a lot harder.

flawless "new Look"
Depends on your taping skills, it's not as easy as it looks to get a perfect wall.
I would skim coat, you don't have to tape and finish the corners and joints, much easier.

For reference, a professional could have the room looking like new by noon or 1 pm.
My guy comes in and scrapes/sands, primes with Gardz, skims with hot mud and then textures with regular mud.

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