3/4" T&G White Ash Ceiling Ideas Please
#1
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3/4" T&G White Ash Ceiling Ideas Please
I am going to install T&G on ceiling on 3 season porch I built 20' x 16'. I have the walls done, where wife wanted T&G. I am using a 3" then 4" then 3" then 5" pattern. I will start at the top of the walls which ends in a 5" board.
So I will start with a 3" board. Everything is square, I'm kinda anal when building.
I have ordered the quantities I need with each board varying in length and all are end matched. I'll start at the house wall, and when each row ends, I want to cut the board ends to match the starting board. This way I don't need to worry about cutting to fit the rafters. I'm guessing I would need to trim the board end at 22.5 degrees I think or is it 45 degrees. I've always done square butt end to the walls before.
Is it easier to make the cut on my Dewalt Chop saw or setup a router bit to use on my router table. The latter would save me time changing the saw from 90 to 22.5/45 degrees all the time. Not sure if one would look better than the other. I can put a template board to butt the boards up if I use the saw, so they are all the same.
I'm thinking it's a 22.5 degree cut, want to order a router bit and have it ready to go before I start if I go that way. Will be staining, then poly coat before I put the boards up.
Maybe someone has done this before and has a better or good idea for me.
Thanks for the help, Happy Thanksgiving Day to all
greg
So I will start with a 3" board. Everything is square, I'm kinda anal when building.
I have ordered the quantities I need with each board varying in length and all are end matched. I'll start at the house wall, and when each row ends, I want to cut the board ends to match the starting board. This way I don't need to worry about cutting to fit the rafters. I'm guessing I would need to trim the board end at 22.5 degrees I think or is it 45 degrees. I've always done square butt end to the walls before.
Is it easier to make the cut on my Dewalt Chop saw or setup a router bit to use on my router table. The latter would save me time changing the saw from 90 to 22.5/45 degrees all the time. Not sure if one would look better than the other. I can put a template board to butt the boards up if I use the saw, so they are all the same.
I'm thinking it's a 22.5 degree cut, want to order a router bit and have it ready to go before I start if I go that way. Will be staining, then poly coat before I put the boards up.
Maybe someone has done this before and has a better or good idea for me.
Thanks for the help, Happy Thanksgiving Day to all
greg

#2
You say they are end matched. So they have a tongue on one end and a groove on the other... right? What you cut off one end will be used on the other end. So use a miter saw and keep your scraps separated into lefts and rights (so you can easily see and use what you have) and be methodical so you dont create a ton of waste.
You wont be cutting any 22.5 or 45 unless your boards are square on the ends. If they are square, you might want to scarf, glue and pin them. And this is not a job for a router at all. You will want your end joints in the field to be somewhat randomly distributed... not perfectly stairstepped.
If I have misunderstood you, post pictures of your boards.
You wont be cutting any 22.5 or 45 unless your boards are square on the ends. If they are square, you might want to scarf, glue and pin them. And this is not a job for a router at all. You will want your end joints in the field to be somewhat randomly distributed... not perfectly stairstepped.
If I have misunderstood you, post pictures of your boards.
#3
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I would add that if you stain [or not] and apply a couple of coats of poly to them before you nail them up it will save you a lot of time and effort. Just be careful NOT to get any build up of poly on the tongue and in the grooves. It is a lot easier to finish the boards on a saw horse than have to do everything off of a ladder. The final coat should be applied after install.