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Repair drywall damaged during tv mounting

Repair drywall damaged during tv mounting

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  #1  
Old 12-09-16, 08:27 AM
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Repair drywall damaged during tv mounting

Maybe someone can explain what happened based on the pictures, but I want to know what is the exact repair. last week I was installing a tv mount on the wall, located the stud with the stud finder,and drilled the pilot holes with a 7/32 drill bit. Was supposed to drill about 2 3/4 in but was only able to drill each hold at 1 1/2 before it wouldn't go any further. Not sure if this was because I was using a weak drill but I ran both screws in and the top one seemed to get hard and this crack developed.

In the end, I was able to get both screws in to hold the mount but want to fix this first. The crack goes between both holes in the stud and about 1 inch above the top hole and 1 inch below the bottom hole. if I push the wall above the top hole, I can feel the drywall move, or more of a creaking noise like loose drywall. I don't feel this if I press the bottom. My thinking to repair this is to scrape off the loose drywall over the crack, use the drywall tape and cover it was the drywall plaster. Correct me if I am wrong or a better repair for this. thanks

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  #2  
Old 12-09-16, 09:57 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

I wouldn't scrape too much, just remove what is loose. Generally any exposed gypsum needs to be coated with either an oil base primer or Zinnser's Gardz. That prevents the paper surrounding the exposed gypsum from peeling but with such a small are of exposed gypsum you can probably get by without priming.

Sounds like you have a handle on the fix. Be sure to let the tape coat dry thoroughly before applying a 2nd coat of mud so the fresh mud doesn't pull the tape coat loose. Once the repair is sanded/smooth you'll want to apply a light texture to make it blend. You can either thin down your joint compound for texture or buy an aerosol can of orange peel texture.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 10:44 AM
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Being a carpenter not a drywaller I'd run an ogee edge on a 1x6, screw it over the bad Sheetrock, stain or paint to match then fasten the mount to the 1x6. But that's just me.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 10:59 AM
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I wouldn't have put the fasteners in if the holes weren't drilled full depth.
Now the stud is split as well as the sheetrock.
The bracket covers the sheetrock so that is no real big problem.

If I were mounting the TV I'd try to move the bolt holes.

I install TV's and have had problems. I've had lag heads snap off requiring removal and, if not, moving the bracket
 
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Old 12-09-16, 11:31 AM
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i thought about that. I was gonna use snap toggle lag bolts on the end to support it better. But I may try putting the bolts in a different position.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 11:46 AM
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I wouldn't bother taping the crack. Cut out the crack a little in a V shape and fill/coat with setting type compound (easysand 20 or 40 minute). Hot mud is resistant to shrinking and cracking.
With aerosol texture, you could have this fixed in a matter of hours.
As far as the split, the bolts were probably over tightened. You shouldn't use a ratchet wrench to tighten the bolts. If you do just snug them up. A ratchet provides way more torque than needed.

Lastly, if you encounter resistance when drilling, stop drilling. I learned this the hard way.
You might have hit steel and that's not good.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 12:48 PM
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if you encounter resistance when drilling, stop drilling. I learned this the hard way.
You might have hit steel and that's not good
And that might be a pipe. Don't ask how I know.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 03:48 PM
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I don't believe I hit a pipe, when I look into the hole, it looks like wood at the end. I feel that my drill was weak thus why it wouldn't go. haven't noticed any issues.
 
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Old 12-09-16, 05:19 PM
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"if you encounter resistance when drilling, stop drilling. I learned this the hard way.
You might have hit steel and that's not good"

Is it possible you have furring strips attached to a block wall?
This could be why it got hard to drill and your bolts could have hit the block and pushed the furring strip away.

That might also explain the movement and the creaking and the crack?
You might need anchors in order to hold in the concrete blocks.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 04:23 AM
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Not sure on that. I went up in the attic last night to inspect and don't see any pipes running through the home. the only brick I see is attached to the next townhome. when I look in the hole, I see about 1/2 inch of drywall then the wood stud. doesn't look like any piping in their. wondering if I have double layers of drywall as I read up on this?? seems they use this is condo construction for better sound proofing. wish I knew the exact cause. at this point I can only guess, either drill was weak, I hit something. I guess all I can do now is fix the crack and learn from this. thanks for the replies everyone
 
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Old 12-10-16, 04:31 AM
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The common wall between homes is either constructed of masonry or double thickness of fire rated drywall as mandated by code. Drywall is super easy to drill thru. About the only thing that would make sense about the drill being weak and you didn't hit steel or masonry would be a dull bit hitting a knot in the wood. What kind of drill and bit were you using?
 
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Old 12-10-16, 05:57 AM
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these are the drill bits I was using

https://store.snapon.com/THUNDERBIT-...t-P746625.aspx

the drill is a Makita 6270d. but both batteries are a bit weak.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 06:19 AM
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While a metal bit isn't the best for drilling into wood it still should work ok. Same thing with your 12 volt drill. My experience with batteries for cordless tools is even when old a fresh charge works well, just that old batteries don't hold their charge as long as they did when new.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 06:27 AM
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if I push the wall above the top hole, I can feel the drywall move, or more of a creaking noise like loose drywall. I don't feel this if I press the bottom.
I think part of your problem is that the studs are bowed or concave.
If there's a depression behind where you are tightening the bracket bolt, the drywall will cave in.
You might need a spacer between the stud face and the bracket, which means drilling or cutting a hole in the drywall large enough for a round or square spacer. Spacer could be called a bushing.
 
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Old 12-10-16, 11:24 AM
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well looks like I do have concrete behind the wall stud. so my question is, what is the best setup for the tv mount? Name:  xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.jpg
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