Tape problems

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-13-16, 05:53 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Tape problems

All seemed to be going pretty well with my bathroom remodel but I've ran into a problem. Being an amature a bought self adhesive perforated paper tape. Now the horizontal joint around the room has hairline cracks along the edges of the tape. I finally noticed the fine print that says not to use pre-mixed or light weight mud. I've tyres several coats to fill it in and build it up but the two cracks along the tape show up every time. So what's the best way to fix this. I'm afraid it is to sand it all the way back down, remove the tape and start over. I also considered sanding down a little way and tape over. Help please.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-13-16, 07:35 PM
Handyone's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: U.S.
Posts: 5,451
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Welcome!
I would consider trimming off the edges of the loose tape if you think the middle is secure.
Cut the tape at an angle with a sharp blade, you could even cut a small V into the drywall.

Point is to fill whatever V or cut with setting type compound, called Hot Mud. Easysand 20 min is good.
Hot mud is less prone to shrinkage and adheres well. I wouldn't add a second layer of tape.
 
  #3  
Old 12-14-16, 03:03 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,134
Received 228 Votes on 203 Posts
While I like the 20 minute mud, the 45 or 90 minute might be easier on a novice as it has a longer work time. Once the mud starts to set any unused mixed mud must be discarded.
 
  #4  
Old 12-14-16, 03:26 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I'm not sure of the condition of the tape under the mud. The tape originaly adhered great with its adhesive, enough that it removed some paper of the board when I tried to reposition it. I think it's more on how it reacted with the mud I used. That and maybe the movent of the floor seeing it is only the horizontal joint and doesn't become noticeable until working in the bathroom for a while. The corners and the 2 small vertical butt joints turned out fine. I did have trouble with the ceiling joints right off the get go, as the tape didn't adhere to the original painted, lightly textured ceiling. I pulled it all out, sanded down, and started over with old school paper. So far it seems great.
So basically open up the cracks with a knife and refill with hot mud?
 
  #5  
Old 12-14-16, 03:34 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Can you post a picture of the tape you used or a link to where it is found? I have never used a self adhesive paper tape, so it may help us to know what it is like.http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
  #6  
Old 12-14-16, 03:37 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Was just getting ready to ask, how do you do that!? Lol
 
  #7  
Old 12-14-16, 04:09 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Picture of the crack.

Attachment 74393

the tape.

Name:  tape.jpg
Views: 106
Size:  26.3 KB
 
Attached Images  
  #8  
Old 12-14-16, 04:21 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 25,177
Received 498 Votes on 457 Posts
Since it is peel and stick, I bet you could pull the tape right off. Then use regular paper tape. Its probably cracking because there is no mud behind the tape, and the fact that you didn't use a setting compound.

With plain paper tape you just add a little water to your mud so that it's more wet, bed the tape into that mud and wipe it down tight so that you squeegee a lot if that mud out from behind the tape. And that's it. You don't cover the tape with mud on that first coat.
 
  #9  
Old 12-14-16, 04:44 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
Ouch, 125' at $17.00 Paper tape is 250' for $2. Now I know why I don't use it. I agree, if it is peel and stick, it may pull away, but cutting the edge off may expose well adhered tape and all you would have to do is coat over it.
 
  #10  
Old 12-14-16, 07:36 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That's what I ended up doing around the ceiling after I pulled off the crap tape. I added water to the pre mix to set the regular paper tape
 
  #11  
Old 12-14-16, 07:44 AM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Should I worry about the corners doing the same in the near future?
 
  #12  
Old 12-14-16, 08:30 AM
S
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,538
Received 93 Votes on 82 Posts
Ugh, that doesn't look wide enough to do a good job to me. I agree on ripping it out, in case you needed an endorsement after the fact.
 
  #13  
Old 12-14-16, 03:52 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
I would wait and see on the corners, mainly to save on unnecessary work.
 
  #14  
Old 12-15-16, 03:02 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,134
Received 228 Votes on 203 Posts
I agree, also the corners usually don't see the stress that a joint in the middle of the wall is exposed to and it's easier to apply a heavier coat of mud at the inside corner.
 
  #15  
Old 12-16-16, 01:59 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
removing bad tape

now do ya'll think I should do the corners also!?

https://www.facebook.com/carol.d.cash/posts/1417913438219373:16
 
  #16  
Old 12-16-16, 02:06 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,134
Received 228 Votes on 203 Posts
Your link doesn't work

If you do the corners one side at a time it should be easier than finishing the joints in the middle of the wall. It takes more skill to mud both sides at the same time. Some use a corner trowel/knife but I never have, I prefer a regular drywall knife.
 
  #17  
Old 12-16-16, 02:45 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
It's on face book. I made it public, you might try it again
 
  #18  
Old 12-16-16, 02:49 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Youtube link pulling tape.
https://youtu.be/moyCJUNB9y4
 
  #19  
Old 12-16-16, 02:56 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,134
Received 228 Votes on 203 Posts
Wow! that came off too easy

I think I misunderstood post #15 If the corners come off just as easy, I'd remove them too but if you have to dig at it - I'd be inclined to leave it and pray for the best.
 
  #20  
Old 12-16-16, 03:06 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 4 Votes on 4 Posts
In the video, the mud layers came off, but it appeared the tape stayed in place. Is that correct? Maybe the mud was put on too quickly coat after coat. Looked awfully thick.
 
  #21  
Old 12-16-16, 09:27 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 10
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I lost count of the number of layers do to trying to get the cracks to go away. That was also a recessed joint. I usually did a coat a day after work so there was usually about 24 hours between coats. The tape and mud came off together altough there seemed to be a thin layer on top that was not bonded as well to the rest that kind of just flaked off. The mud doesn't seem to have stuck to the tape as well as the wall and of course the tape was self adhesive. I pulled a small section of corner and it is in deeper and more difficult to get out but it still seems as if the tape is not adhered to the wall or mud that great either, just more mud over it and more rigid.
 
  #22  
Old 12-17-16, 03:31 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,134
Received 228 Votes on 203 Posts
The inside corners don't normally see as much stress as the other joints [less likely to get bumped into] The reason for using setting compound per the directions is setting compounds dry harder than regular pre mixed j/c.

Recessed joints don't have to be feathered out as far as butt joints. A typical recessed joint is finished to a width of 10"-14" while butt joints can be twice that wide.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: