Tape problems
#1
12-13-16, 05:53 PM
Tape problems
All seemed to be going pretty well with my bathroom remodel but I've ran into a problem. Being an amature a bought self adhesive perforated paper tape. Now the horizontal joint around the room has hairline cracks along the edges of the tape. I finally noticed the fine print that says not to use pre-mixed or light weight mud. I've tyres several coats to fill it in and build it up but the two cracks along the tape show up every time. So what's the best way to fix this. I'm afraid it is to sand it all the way back down, remove the tape and start over. I also considered sanding down a little way and tape over. Help please.
#2
12-13-16, 07:35 PM
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Welcome!
I would consider trimming off the edges of the loose tape if you think the middle is secure.
Cut the tape at an angle with a sharp blade, you could even cut a small V into the drywall.
Point is to fill whatever V or cut with setting type compound, called Hot Mud. Easysand 20 min is good.
Hot mud is less prone to shrinkage and adheres well. I wouldn't add a second layer of tape.
I would consider trimming off the edges of the loose tape if you think the middle is secure.
Cut the tape at an angle with a sharp blade, you could even cut a small V into the drywall.
Point is to fill whatever V or cut with setting type compound, called Hot Mud. Easysand 20 min is good.
Hot mud is less prone to shrinkage and adheres well. I wouldn't add a second layer of tape.
#4
12-14-16, 03:26 AM
I'm not sure of the condition of the tape under the mud. The tape originaly adhered great with its adhesive, enough that it removed some paper of the board when I tried to reposition it. I think it's more on how it reacted with the mud I used. That and maybe the movent of the floor seeing it is only the horizontal joint and doesn't become noticeable until working in the bathroom for a while. The corners and the 2 small vertical butt joints turned out fine. I did have trouble with the ceiling joints right off the get go, as the tape didn't adhere to the original painted, lightly textured ceiling. I pulled it all out, sanded down, and started over with old school paper. So far it seems great.
So basically open up the cracks with a knife and refill with hot mud?
So basically open up the cracks with a knife and refill with hot mud?
#5
12-14-16, 03:34 AM
Can you post a picture of the tape you used or a link to where it is found? I have never used a self adhesive paper tape, so it may help us to know what it is like.http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
#8
12-14-16, 04:21 AM
Group Moderator
Since it is peel and stick, I bet you could pull the tape right off. Then use regular paper tape. Its probably cracking because there is no mud behind the tape, and the fact that you didn't use a setting compound.
With plain paper tape you just add a little water to your mud so that it's more wet, bed the tape into that mud and wipe it down tight so that you squeegee a lot if that mud out from behind the tape. And that's it. You don't cover the tape with mud on that first coat.
With plain paper tape you just add a little water to your mud so that it's more wet, bed the tape into that mud and wipe it down tight so that you squeegee a lot if that mud out from behind the tape. And that's it. You don't cover the tape with mud on that first coat.
#9
12-14-16, 04:44 AM
Ouch, 125' at $17.00 
Paper tape is 250' for $2. Now I know why I don't use it. I agree, if it is peel and stick, it may pull away, but cutting the edge off may expose well adhered tape and all you would have to do is coat over it.
Paper tape is 250' for $2. Now I know why I don't use it. I agree, if it is peel and stick, it may pull away, but cutting the edge off may expose well adhered tape and all you would have to do is coat over it.
#12
12-14-16, 08:30 AM
Group Moderator
Ugh, that doesn't look wide enough to do a good job to me. I agree on ripping it out, in case you needed an endorsement after the fact.
#15
12-16-16, 01:59 PM
removing bad tape
now do ya'll think I should do the corners also!?
https://www.facebook.com/carol.d.cash/posts/1417913438219373:16
https://www.facebook.com/carol.d.cash/posts/1417913438219373:16
#16
12-16-16, 02:06 PM
Your link doesn't work
If you do the corners one side at a time it should be easier than finishing the joints in the middle of the wall. It takes more skill to mud both sides at the same time. Some use a corner trowel/knife but I never have, I prefer a regular drywall knife.
If you do the corners one side at a time it should be easier than finishing the joints in the middle of the wall. It takes more skill to mud both sides at the same time. Some use a corner trowel/knife but I never have, I prefer a regular drywall knife.
#19
12-16-16, 02:56 PM
Wow! that came off too easy
I think I misunderstood post #15
If the corners come off just as easy, I'd remove them too but if you have to dig at it - I'd be inclined to leave it and pray for the best.
I think I misunderstood post #15
If the corners come off just as easy, I'd remove them too but if you have to dig at it - I'd be inclined to leave it and pray for the best.
#20
12-16-16, 03:06 PM
In the video, the mud layers came off, but it appeared the tape stayed in place. Is that correct? Maybe the mud was put on too quickly coat after coat. Looked awfully thick.
#21
12-16-16, 09:27 PM
I lost count of the number of layers do to trying to get the cracks to go away. That was also a recessed joint. I usually did a coat a day after work so there was usually about 24 hours between coats. The tape and mud came off together altough there seemed to be a thin layer on top that was not bonded as well to the rest that kind of just flaked off. The mud doesn't seem to have stuck to the tape as well as the wall and of course the tape was self adhesive. I pulled a small section of corner and it is in deeper and more difficult to get out but it still seems as if the tape is not adhered to the wall or mud that great either, just more mud over it and more rigid.
#22
12-17-16, 03:31 AM
The inside corners don't normally see as much stress as the other joints [less likely to get bumped into] The reason for using setting compound per the directions is setting compounds dry harder than regular pre mixed j/c.
Recessed joints don't have to be feathered out as far as butt joints. A typical recessed joint is finished to a width of 10"-14" while butt joints can be twice that wide.
Recessed joints don't have to be feathered out as far as butt joints. A typical recessed joint is finished to a width of 10"-14" while butt joints can be twice that wide.
