Matching knock down wall texture
#1
12-29-16, 11:07 PM
Matching knock down wall texture
I pulled the old 19070s paneling and the wall behind wasn't finished. I would like to try to match the knock down texture but can't figure out the process they used. Doesn't appear to be a can version. Smoothing the walls is not a option at this time as the ceiling peeks at like 20 feet and will require scaffolding over the stairs.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#2
12-30-16, 02:58 AM
Welcome to the forums!
IMO knockdown texture is one of the harder textures to match for a patch but doing a whole wall isn't that hard. Basically it's thinned down joint compound sprayed on the wall [splatter coat] let set and then knocked down with a wide knife. How thin/thick the j/c is and how long you let it set before knocking it down both play a part in how prominent the texture is.
You'll still need to get up high enough to spray the upper portion of the wall and knock down the j/c.
If you already have an air compressor, a hopper gun isn't all that expensive. If you don't have one you can rent both. While it isn't a difficult job there is a small learning curve but if it doesn't come out right you can easily scrape off the texture when wet or sand it down when dry and try again. Spraying texture can be messy so be sure to cover up what you don't want to have to clean up!
IMO knockdown texture is one of the harder textures to match for a patch but doing a whole wall isn't that hard. Basically it's thinned down joint compound sprayed on the wall [splatter coat] let set and then knocked down with a wide knife. How thin/thick the j/c is and how long you let it set before knocking it down both play a part in how prominent the texture is.
You'll still need to get up high enough to spray the upper portion of the wall and knock down the j/c.
If you already have an air compressor, a hopper gun isn't all that expensive. If you don't have one you can rent both. While it isn't a difficult job there is a small learning curve but if it doesn't come out right you can easily scrape off the texture when wet or sand it down when dry and try again. Spraying texture can be messy so be sure to cover up what you don't want to have to clean up!
#3
12-30-16, 06:18 AM
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Here's a link to a spray gun that works good, all you need is a compressor.
It doesn't use a hopper, you attach premixed bags of compound. You control the heaviness by squeezing the bag.
Cleaning the gun is very easy. They are available at Sherwin-Williams around here.
Your texture should be fairly easy to match, it doesn't look like true knockdown, maybe a heavy Orange Peel slightly knocked down.
https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Pro-Textur.../dp/B017084P0U
It doesn't use a hopper, you attach premixed bags of compound. You control the heaviness by squeezing the bag.
Cleaning the gun is very easy. They are available at Sherwin-Williams around here.
Your texture should be fairly easy to match, it doesn't look like true knockdown, maybe a heavy Orange Peel slightly knocked down.
https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Pro-Textur.../dp/B017084P0U
#4
12-30-16, 06:46 AM
Group Moderator
I agree, it's not a true knockdown... just a splatter coat. The hard thing to blend will be the edges where the new meets the old. You can rent the hopper and compressor from any rental store. Best advice I could give would be to use the spray hopper with your thinned joint compound and texture the repaired area first... attempting to blend the edges lightly at first. Then go back and lightly retexture the entire wall a second time to try and mask tge edges of the repair even further.
Consistency is the key... do the whole thing without a lot of starting and stopping. Test the setting on your hopper on scraps of drywall before you begin... the adjustment on the nozzle controls the size of the texture it spits out.
Consistency is the key... do the whole thing without a lot of starting and stopping. Test the setting on your hopper on scraps of drywall before you begin... the adjustment on the nozzle controls the size of the texture it spits out.
