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Repair drywall that is squashed between two metal edge beads?

Repair drywall that is squashed between two metal edge beads?

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  #1  
Old 12-30-16, 08:50 PM
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Repair drywall that is squashed between two metal edge beads?

Not sure how to properly described it, so here is a picture of my situation.

http://imgur.com/vA0Pnnh


The width of that wall is only about 5 inches. It is right next to a basement shower stall, and due to lack of caulking, some gypsum at the bottom portion has degraded, which caused it to break apart when I took out the old trim. While the stud is stained, it has not rotted.

By my estimate the bad section should only be about 2 to 3 inches. Is there anyway to repair only that small section? not sure how it can be done without replacing the entire metal edge beads.

Alternatively, can I just mud the area, and then nail a 3 inch high pvc baseboard there? Like this?

http://imgur.com/2dr2gP7

Thanks.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-30-16, 09:08 PM
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Nail the corner bead down so that its not loose, then use a setting compound to fill the area. Remove all degraded drywall first... then mud it up. Use the setting compound for your first 2 coats then skim with standard joint compound.

I suppose you could cover it with trim too.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 03:21 AM
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I agree. Setting compound isn't water soluble so there is less likelihood of the damage re occurring. IMO you'd only need 1 coat of setting compound and 1 coat of regular joint compound. The main reason for using regular j/c for the final coat is it's easier to sand.
 
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Old 12-31-16, 07:27 AM
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Okay, thanks.

So I chipped out all the loose and slightly soft sections that I can get, and was able to insert two small pieces of leftover (normal, none mold resistant) drywall board into it.

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I assume this is what I need to do next?

1. Screw the boards in.
2. Secure the metal beads with nail.
3. Coat the section with setting joint compound like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.s...000116303.html
Make sure to cover the beads and the drywall and all the gaps.

4. And then once step 3 is dry, smooth it out with pre-mixed joint compound, then sand smooth.

Is this process correct? Should I take the pieces out, apply settling joint compound, insert it in, and then apply another layer? or is that just unneeded work.

Also, if I only need a small amount of settling compound, can I only mix a small batch? How much water should I add? what kind of consistency am I aiming for? Is there a lot of room for error in terms of mixing?

Thanks.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-16, 10:54 AM
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Yes you are on the right track,
If you look around or ask you might be able to find that joint compound in 5# boxes. it will cost almost as much as the 18# but you won't feel as bad about throwing it away when the time comes. You might be able to get faster set times like five or twenty minutes.
Find and stop the source of the water so you don't have to do this again in three to five years and to keep the stud from rotting.
No larger than this is I would use setting mud for the whole thing. Yes it is harder to sand but what is the real difference between two minutes and five minutes for a little job like this, Then you don' have two kinds of stuff to throw away.
Give it one coat. make sure you don't fill it too high. You can always add more but the less sanding the better.
When the first coat has set scrape off any high spots then give it a second coat. If you mist the second coat just as it sets you can trowel it nice and smooth. Keep the existing work clean and leave the new stuff flush with that,.
Now there is a difference between setting and drying. If you see that you are going to have to do a bit of sanding then wait until it is dry, like overnight before you do any sanding.

Above I say two coats because I think you can do it in two. If it takes three don;t worry as soon as one has set you can do the next The main thing is don;t over fill it and have a big hump to scrape or sand off.
 
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