Repairing bad mud jobs?
#1
02-04-17, 11:41 PM
Repairing bad mud jobs?
Hi.
I did my first ever spackling a couple years ago when I first moved into this 1971 small ranch as there were many fits size holes and dings in the walls. I think the guy was angry with the foreclosure and made holes in the walls or was just a guy with a temper cause there were also a couple holes behind door knobs where the doors hit the wall.
Anyways, my brother in law helped spackle when we first moved in a did a "quick job" and left many areas that are raised that you can especially see when the light hits it, etc.
I myself didn't really know much about sanding properly and I think I did almost the same in some areas.
I realized a while ago that once the paint dries, etc it becomes harder to sand down the "mistakes" or areas that I didn't sand so flush.
Is there a "standard" technique or do you just use a sanding block and/or scraper and start scraping/sanding away at the area to get it smoother? These areas have all been painted over.
I did my first ever spackling a couple years ago when I first moved into this 1971 small ranch as there were many fits size holes and dings in the walls. I think the guy was angry with the foreclosure and made holes in the walls or was just a guy with a temper cause there were also a couple holes behind door knobs where the doors hit the wall.
Anyways, my brother in law helped spackle when we first moved in a did a "quick job" and left many areas that are raised that you can especially see when the light hits it, etc.
I myself didn't really know much about sanding properly and I think I did almost the same in some areas.
I realized a while ago that once the paint dries, etc it becomes harder to sand down the "mistakes" or areas that I didn't sand so flush.
Is there a "standard" technique or do you just use a sanding block and/or scraper and start scraping/sanding away at the area to get it smoother? These areas have all been painted over.
#2
02-05-17, 02:48 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Here is a selection of tools. I like the pole sanders best. Be ready with a lot of sand paper as paint will fill up paper fast.
#4
02-05-17, 04:00 AM
Joint compound that has been coated with latex paint doesn't sand very well, the paint will 'melt' and plug the sandpaper in short order. Sometimes it's better to float the mud out over a larger area to make the hump appear to disappear.
#5
02-05-17, 05:59 AM
Member
First, DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO SAND DRYWALL!!
You will end up with a much larger mess than you currently have.
You are correct, once painted the paint soaks into the patched area and dries, you need to get past that to begin the repair.
First, try the sanding screens they are designed for drywall, have a large flat area and tend to not dig into the wall/repair area.
6" drywall knife, topper compound, multiple thin coats, light sanding and 2 coats of good PVA primer with a roller (small 4" pink rollers) to add texture to the patch feathered out well past the repair.
You will end up with a much larger mess than you currently have.
You are correct, once painted the paint soaks into the patched area and dries, you need to get past that to begin the repair.
First, try the sanding screens they are designed for drywall, have a large flat area and tend to not dig into the wall/repair area.
6" drywall knife, topper compound, multiple thin coats, light sanding and 2 coats of good PVA primer with a roller (small 4" pink rollers) to add texture to the patch feathered out well past the repair.
#6
02-05-17, 06:05 AM
I'll have to draw a line on not using power tools, as blanket advice such as that is improper. If properly used, they can help do a faster and smoother job. If you are a hack, yes, stay away from anything with power, or anything sharp.
#7
02-05-17, 06:11 AM
When sanding latex paint, the heat generated 'melts' the paint plugging up the paper. Power sanding intensifies that effect ..... although there isn't much harm in giving the wall a once over with an electric sander.
#8
02-05-17, 06:29 AM
I have used sanding screen on my ROS with fine results. Sure the paint clogs it up, but once it gets down to the mud, not so much clogging. Plus the vacuum action of the ROS helps to keep the clogging to a minimum.
#9
02-05-17, 07:49 AM
Another vote for the random orbital sander, ok if you are careful. The danger is sanding into the paper around the patch and that area doesn't need to be sanded. Lay a straight edge across the patch to see how high it is and only sand the high areas. On a really botched job I once actually used a paint scraper to gouge out some of the old mud, gouges are easy to fill in.
As Marq1 said, multiple thin coats feathered out to the sides. A baseball size hole should end up with a basketball size patch (or larger) with virtually no bump in the center.
Bud
As Marq1 said, multiple thin coats feathered out to the sides. A baseball size hole should end up with a basketball size patch (or larger) with virtually no bump in the center.
Bud
#10
02-05-17, 11:01 AM
Member
I myself didn't really know much about sanding properly
On a personal note, I have never nor would I ever use any kind of power sander on drywall and I'm all in on having any and all tools known to mankind!
#11
02-05-17, 11:13 AM
You will until you have your shoulders replaced. Then any power tool that will help keep you from swinging your arm sanding will be a Godsend. That's why I do it.
#12
02-05-17, 01:26 PM
Group Moderator
On a personal note, I have never nor would I ever use any kind of power sander on drywall and I'm all in on having any and all tools known to mankind!
