How To Repair The Wall In Which Stairway Handrail Is Attached
#1
09-10-18, 01:57 AM
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How To Repair The Wall In Which Stairway Handrail Is Attached
I’m looking to repair the area in which the handrail is attached to the wall. The fasteners have become detached from the wall and my concern is that if I plaster the wall and filling in the empty holes. The same thing will eventually reoccure.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Any advice would be appreciated.
#2
09-10-18, 02:04 AM
At the very least the fasteners should have been in studs. Even better is to run a 1x6 the entire length, fasten it to the studs and rail on top. that prevents the brackets from digging into the Sheetrock.
You can make the 1x6 more decorative by finishing the edges with an an ogee bit if you own a router.
You can make the 1x6 more decorative by finishing the edges with an an ogee bit if you own a router.
#3
09-10-18, 03:47 AM
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Can you please explain to me what a ogee and a router are?
Should the 1x6 piece of wood be placed BEHIND the Sheetrock? This would take a fair amount of demolition.
Should the 1x6 piece of wood be placed BEHIND the Sheetrock? This would take a fair amount of demolition.
#4
09-10-18, 04:09 AM
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I like Ray's idea. No, the 1 x 6 is put on top of the wallboard.Ogee is a decorative molding or use a router make your own on the 1 x 6. You can stain or paint the 1 x 6. Screw the 1 x 6 to the studs the full length of the stairwell. Then attach the rail to it. You still want to attach the rail supports to where the studs are located. I had a similar situation. I relocated my rail brackets and used lag screws that were long enough to go into the studs at least 1 ". Depending on the length, you may want to add two to three more rail brackets.
The only drawback about adding the 1 x 6 is that it reduces the width of the stairwell opening. This might cause a problem if moving large pieces if furniture up and down the stairs.
The only drawback about adding the 1 x 6 is that it reduces the width of the stairwell opening. This might cause a problem if moving large pieces if furniture up and down the stairs.
#5
09-10-18, 04:27 AM
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Well if that’s the case then, it seems as if I can just skip the 1x6 altogether and just try my best to find the studs while adding a few more handrail supports if need be. Finding the studs seem to be the most important factor here, unless I’m missing something.
#7
09-10-18, 04:38 AM
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Unfortunately, that’s how the place was built. 
I purchased the home about 6 years ago and I’ve noticed the handrail fasteners loosen from the sheet rock in which they were attached. Definitely shotty craftsmenship.
Thank you for the advice.
I purchased the home about 6 years ago and I’ve noticed the handrail fasteners loosen from the sheet rock in which they were attached. Definitely shotty craftsmenship.
Thank you for the advice.
#8
09-10-18, 06:31 AM
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One of these is handy to help you locate the studs:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zircon-S...5945/205143494
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zircon-S...5945/205143494
#9
09-10-18, 06:53 PM
I would sure go with the 1X 6 or a real lumber molding. Not MDF. If you need tio move something through the stairway and it is too narrow, take the rail off remproarily.
#10
09-10-18, 07:50 PM
Bottom line IMHO the brackets will eventually gouge out the sheet rock and loosen even if the screws are in the studs. Heck, the 1x6 only adds 5/8". The rail takes up much more room.
