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please help me prep kitchen walls and ceiling

please help me prep kitchen walls and ceiling

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  #1  
Old 03-22-20, 05:42 PM
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please help me prep kitchen walls and ceiling

since i now have time off i figured nows a good time to do this. 70s kitchen, grease on ceiling etc. lotta cracks and peeling paint. i'm assuming the order of doing things is get off the wallpaper and see whats under and go from there. thankfully its only about one full wall about 12 feet long and then things like 1 ft border above half the kitchen and about another 5 ft with a window and 5 feet of kitchen hall

1st issue.

i just removed the plastic trim ring from the AC and its ugly . i had to install this in 105 heat in july and had to actually knock 2 inches of cinder block out to make it fit. the wall is some kind of panel as it moves. if you have to wait for me to peel the paper back i understand but wondering if any suggestions can be made at this point. honestly wondering if i can just get a bigger trim ring lol
 
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  #2  
Old 03-22-20, 05:45 PM
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beam and ceiling. lotta flaking paint. i guess just sand it?

but notice the crack between the ceiling and wall as well as between the beam and ceiling or the beam and wall. do i just use that caulk that comes in a toothpaste tube and turns pink to white when its able to be sanded? i do have a caulk smoothing tool. use that in the corners?

i forgot to say i'm just gonna paint everything white at first. walls. upper and lower part..chair rail. ceiling. wood work around the doors and windows. later on i can do color if i want. but what paint do i want to use (flat /satin etc)
 
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  #3  
Old 03-22-20, 05:49 PM
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crack going down half the kitchen. do i chip this out. just fill it as is? suggestions needed please as it is very long
 
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Old 03-22-20, 06:02 PM
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the hot water baseboards are green. do i use special paint for them. i think i just used latex in another room years ago and its ok but i forget

the green wallpaper appears to be glued on to some kind of paneling. i pulled away a piece and the panel came with it. i assume i have 2 choices. make the panel glued to the wall or rip the panel off but unsure whats under it. part of me is saying just put up bead board lol. the upper white wallpaper appears to be on solid wall as i pressed hard on it.
 
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  #5  
Old 03-22-20, 06:06 PM
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i have wallpaper around the inside of the window frame. when i go to buy a new wallpaper remover i see it comes with a smaller attachment but it seems like will be more tedious since its just about 2 inches inside the window frame

any hints what type of scraper i should buy for the wallpaper remover.
 
  #6  
Old 03-23-20, 03:17 AM
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If it's just regular wallpaper you can score it, get it wet and then use a broad knife to scrape it off. Sometimes that works well why other times it's very tedious. You said the wallpaper was on panels - how thick are the panels? are they attached directly to the studs or over drywall/plaster?

With the cracks in the ceiling you'd scrape off any loose and then mud and tape them.
Steel baseboard heaters are generally painted with oil base. Latex paint may work although it has little rust inhibitive properties. Here is a link on how to tell if the current paint is oil or latex - https://www.doityourself.com/forum/p...latex-oil.html
 
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Old 03-23-20, 04:14 AM
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ive never mud and taped. is that effective for my plaster as well.

have to do further research on wall panels once i start.
 
  #8  
Old 03-23-20, 05:02 AM
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Yes, you can mud/tape over plaster but what I often do with plaster is to etch out the crack and fill it with a setting compound like Durabond. You normally don't need tape doing it that way. On the rare occasions where the crack comes back you need to use tape. Durabond is a bear to sand so it pays to apply it neatly!
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-20, 07:43 AM
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what is the difference between the things you said and using drydex. ive used that for nail holes before. seems easier to sand and maybe use on all the places where the big gaps are with the beams and against the walls
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-20, 07:53 AM
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You did not say how long these cracks have been there.
You may want to investigate further before starting.

In the second picture with the larger crack it looks like the wall has actually pulled away from the ceiling.
At least if the beam was originally tight against the wall that is what it looks like.
 
  #11  
Old 03-23-20, 09:32 AM
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about 20 years. i have bigger ones in the utility room next to the kitchen. that room is on a solid slab but rest of the house is above a crawlspace.
 
  #12  
Old 03-23-20, 12:48 PM
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tried to pull out the panel a bit but didnt wanna snap it. saw a bit of it near my AC from the side and think it's about 1/8 inch and just should be nailed or glued fast. id post another pic but apparently im over my limit and no clue how to delete

good news is did try pulling from a few different places and the paper does appear to come right off. so tomorrow ill probably start doing that to see what exactly is under it
 
  #13  
Old 03-24-20, 02:52 PM
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here are pics of the AC with and without the trim ring. if i could have just put the trim ring on and covered the mess i would do it. but i cannot. there is a layer of some kind of paper on the walls. the main kitchen wall under the chair rail (seen above covered) has this same paper and its still in great shape so i dont want to mess with it. my plan for that is a test primer tonight and see how that looks

but under the AC obviously this is an issue. also no way will i try to remove that wood panel you see under it. i will try to make sure i nail it fast to whatever is under it and glue the other piece of paper you see under the outlet. theres no doubt if i lifted up that paper theres either just wood frame or something i dont want to deal with. only other thing i can think of is there such a thing as a very thin plain panel to fit over top all this. including cut out the AC. but the main wall i really dont wanna touch it. but the AC wall i have no problem cutting out a piece to fit over the ac and outlet. outlet is dead anyway and needs covered.also i gotta trim all that spray foam. but i wouldnt even have to be perfect over the ac, just close enough to the AC unit itself within 1/8 inch etc.

only other thing i can think of is make sure all is glued./nailed and build up tiny layer of compound/spackle to cover all around the AC. kind of like bondo on a car fender. just cover it all in layers?

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmMayMSk
 
  #14  
Old 03-24-20, 04:04 PM
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this is fresh paint

ok its pretty obvious whatever this board is, its not meant for paint. i should have just painted over wallpaper. is there anything i can coat over it to make it more even? some kind of thing like leveling cement for walls lol. or suspend gravity for a day.

i dont have a vehicle that can take 4 ft beadboard (with seat down i can do 40 inches wide and almost 80 inches long) or id probably do that. i did do a small bathroom with it and it looks good. it would be very tedious with all the special cuts but unsure what else i can do.

i included a pic of the upper area above all the counters and cabinets. i realllly dont wanna cut the beadboard to all where the beams meet the walls. that would be crazy complicated. i feel that 1 ft section all around the top of the kitchen could be just painted white or even an accent color or even heaven forbid, wall paper lol. or just covered with tons of pictures or a shelf or something. up that high you cannot see the wall imperfections.

im assuming the recommendation would be wallpaper again but i never did it and doing seams etc seems beyond what i want to do and i dont want to pay anyone. FYI those are vertical pencil marks on the upper kitchen pics

https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/ghS9X5
 
  #15  
Old 03-24-20, 05:13 PM
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silly question. could all that be old dried up glue. any recommendations for a good power sander? i will try to manually sand a small section of wall tomorrow and then paint it to see if that looks good.
 
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