I have been working on the foyer of my 200+year old home. I am almost done and ready to start dry walling. The 2nd floor floor joists (the ceiling joists in the foyer) are significantly bowed. I just replaced the 1st floor floor joists (sistered new ones in) but don't plan on doing the 2nd floor ones. but I am concerned attaching drywall to these would not look good. The old ceiling was a drop ceiling so this wasn't an issue. The span is 15' 2" and the joists are rough cut true 2x8. I started to put up some shims on one end since it wasn't too bad. the one picture shows a 1/2" shim on end, then 3/8", then 1/4", which continues for a long distance to about mid span. But the other end was really bad at 1 1/2" and really too much to do this. So I figured I would need to sister in a new nailer. other pictures show it in place and how far out the joist is on the end. Putting these are a lot easier than shimming. Is that the way to go? I was originally concerned about all the extra weight since the joists are bowed which is why I started shimming. but it is too much out to do it that way. I could scribe the 2x4, then cut it and screw it up on bottom of joist to avoid the extra weight. will need longer drywall screws to go through this 1 1/2" "shim" to do this. I don't think the joists are moving anymore? think nailers whole length OK? That is easist.

Hi guys, I am currently updating our guest bathroom shower. In an attempt to reduce the scope of work, we are keeping (reglazing) the existing bathtub, but we are tiling all the way to the top of the ceiling. I have removed the old tile and drywall at the back and sides of the shower and I have them down to the studs. The plan is to put cement board as a substrate (Durock) overlain by Schluter Kerdi, overlain by 3x6 Subway tiles. For the edge of the tile, I was planning to put a Schluter profile. Now I am in the phase of putting back the walls together prior to tiling, and I ran into a small issue. The bathtub does not exactly fit the space available. As such, when placing the cement board over the tub, there is a tiny space (about 0.2 inches) behind the cement board. This causes the proposed cement board and the existing drywall to not match, as shown in figure 1 below. I forgot to mention, to make sure the cement board is vertical, I will need to shim to make up for the gap using roofing felt, unless you guys suggest something better. I tried looking into alternatives, but I could not find a piece of wood that would help with this tiny space. In order to close up the space and make up for the difference, I was wondering if you guys knew of a product or profile which could help hide the difference, such as a corner profile. Please see Figure 2 below. Can you guys think of a different/better solution? I haven't been able to find a profile with that shape. There are plenty of T moldings for floor transitions, but I haven't been able to find anything similar for walls. Would you still do Figure 1 and put caulking in the edge? I really appreciate your help and opinions. Thanks!