I would like to hang it lying flat and facing downwards from as close to the ceiling as possible in my Garage. 2 problems, the wall is hollow brick and the ceiling has 60 year old beams as that is the age of this garage. Please see attached pic, the red arrow area is where I would like to hang the speaker between those 2 shelves on the left and right:
76 pounds per speaker isn't too bad as far as supporting the weight. You can use two strips of perforated metal strapping with a screw on each end. Hit the rafters/joist and each joist only has to carry 38 pounds and each screw 19 pounds.
I'm not sure the joists are in a usable location to using that hanging strap.
We know you want to hang the speaker facing down.... which orientation.... longways between the shelves ?
My recommendation is to use two pieces of punched angle iron. You could have them long enough to span two joists. Mount them directly to the speakers and then use four lag bolts into the joists.
That design can work on both the walls and the ceiling beams so would not put much strain on either wall or beam I am thinking? If yes then I am not understanding about the "punched" part or how to hang the straps from it?
Forget the hanging straps.
I left a link for the punched angle iron.
Look at the picture.....
In the top one..... both red lines are the angle iron. They need to be long enough to span two joists.
You would screw the angle iron onto the speaker. One in the front and one in the back.
The angle iron would get lagged to the ceiling joists.
In the bottom one.... the yellow angle would be mounted to the speaker and to the wall. You could mount it to the wall first and use it to help hold the speaker up while the blue track was fastened. After the blue angle was installed you would put a few screws thru the yellow track into the speaker.
The blue would be on the speaker and the ceiling.
It's hard to convey an idea. The best picture here is the upper left one. It shows what it will look like. The red lines are lag bolts into the joists. The picture on the right is what the track looks like lagged to the ceiling. Your speaker would be mounted to the left of that.
Oh sorry I forgot to mention I cannot screw anything unto the speaker since I have put it up for sale to get another speaker which has mounting points on it so can't damage the carpeting which is why I need to use either straps or wire. Also remember it needs to be facing downward like maybe at around a 20 degree angle or so therefore I am thinking I would definitely need to use straps or wire for that to happen?
Yes, Home Depot has punched angle iron but don't know if that is thick enough?
If you can't drill into the speaker..... my ideas are moot.
I don't think Danes will work either.
The only thing I can think of now is exactly what I thought the first time I saw the picture. Put something across the shelves and sit the speaker on it. Since it's pointing down.... you can use maybe two 2x2's or put a wooden shelf across the metal ones and cut the center out for the speaker to fire thru.
Thanks, that's a great idea for now at least with this speaker. I even have a few 2x6 full lengths outside left over from some work during the summer. I guess I can put a brick or something under the back of the speaker on the back 2x6 to lift it to get the front facing downwards.
Only issue then would be to find a way to use a strap horizontally to tie it down so the speaker doesn't move forward or wait. Or maybe instead I can use a piece of angle iron screwed unto the front piece of 2x6 to have a lip so no way for the front of the speaker to move forward, what do you think please?
trying to ascertain if this wall is load bearing.
florida block home, built 1995
wall originally had upper.lower cabinets/stove and stove vent
single plate at the top
i have never seen trusses like these, hence the inquiry.
picture 4 is mislabeled, just showing the downward wood spanning the home.
picture 4, where is states wall to be removed is exactly in the middle of the wall ins question.
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Hi everyone,
I had some water leaking in between the drywall and brick on my 1912 rowhouse on the back wall and suspected there was mold. The source of moisture was a bad window/door that I have since replaced. I got a professional mold company to take a look at the wall, and the guy told me that his company would be more expensive than necessary, and that I could probably do it myself or hire a handyman. I took his candid advice to heart and made a plan. After sealing the area with plastic sheeting, I started removing the drywall and plaster until I got down to the brick. Then, my plan was to clean the brick with concobrium and a brush, then paint it with zinsser mold killing primer, before installing extruded polystyrene insulation and hanging new mold resistant drywall. As I removed the drywall and plaster, I saw that most of the brick is covered in black, which gave me concern that I had encountered extensive black mold and was maybe in over my head. Mostly it's dry and I can peal it off, but in some places it smudges. Honestly, I don't even know if it is mold, and if it is, if it is too dangerous to proceed with treating it as planned. So, I'm just looking for some feedback from the group - should I call in the professionals, or is it safe for me to do as a DIY project? If it can be done DIY, any thoughts on my plan? I'm attaching a few photos for reference- most are its current state, but also attaching 1 from before I sealed off the area and removed the drywall.
Thanks so much in advance for the help!
Gabe
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[i]before putting up plastic sheeting and removing drywall.[/i]
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12-23-20, 10:09 AM
