Hi everyone,
I had some water leaking in between the drywall and brick on my 1912 rowhouse on the back wall and suspected there was mold. The source of moisture was a bad window/door that I have since replaced. I got a professional mold company to take a look at the wall, and the guy told me that his company would be more expensive than necessary, and that I could probably do it myself or hire a handyman. I took his candid advice to heart and made a plan. After sealing the area with plastic sheeting, I started removing the drywall and plaster until I got down to the brick. Then, my plan was to clean the brick with concobrium and a brush, then paint it with zinsser mold killing primer, before installing extruded polystyrene insulation and hanging new mold resistant drywall. As I removed the drywall and plaster, I saw that most of the brick is covered in black, which gave me concern that I had encountered extensive black mold and was maybe in over my head. Mostly it's dry and I can peal it off, but in some places it smudges. Honestly, I don't even know if it is mold, and if it is, if it is too dangerous to proceed with treating it as planned. So, I'm just looking for some feedback from the group - should I call in the professionals, or is it safe for me to do as a DIY project? If it can be done DIY, any thoughts on my plan? I'm attaching a few photos for reference- most are its current state, but also attaching 1 from before I sealed off the area and removed the drywall.
Thanks so much in advance for the help!
Gabe before putting up plastic sheeting and removing drywall.
Thank you PJMax and XSleeper! That is a relief to hear. In that case, I think I'll peel/scrub it off and use extruded polystyrene insulation as my air/vapor barrier directly on the brick. Then mount furring strips through the insulation and into the brick using tapcon screws and hang drywall on the furring. Does that plan sound good to you? FYI- I live in Washington DC, so we have hot humid summers but also a few months of cold weather.
I think that before you go any further, you would be wise to brush or roll some sort of thick waterproof coating onto the brick to do the same thing that the asphalt was doing. Brick is not waterproof.
Hey guys, I have this speaker here:
[url]https://av.loyola.com/products/audio/ev-eliminator-i.html[/url]
I would like to hang it lying flat and facing downwards from as close to the ceiling as possible in my Garage. 2 problems, the wall is hollow brick and the ceiling has 60 year old beams as that is the age of this garage. Please see attached pic, the red arrow area is where I would like to hang the speaker between those 2 shelves on the left and right:
[url]https://i.postimg.cc/fT2DrCMj/IMG-2242.jpg[/url]
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/640x480/speaker_e3e250c84a1e969f843ab7217bf3ea3d32403646.jpg[/img]
Can you guys advise on the simplest secure way to this please? Thx.
First time DIYer, so please forgive me.
I’m considering installing a faux beam in a cathedral ceiling but want to ask fellow DIYers for some advice.
The cathedral ceiling is finished with popcorn ceiling and a ceiling fan hanging off of one side. This is the room above the garage and there is no other floor above.
I am interested in building a faux beam to install and try to relocate the ceiling fan to the middle(on the faux beam).
1. Is it safe to say that the cathedral ceiling is able to support two 2X6s stacked where I can screw the faux beam to the 2X6, and relocate the ceiling fan? I’d say the length of the room is 15 feet or so.
2. I’m also thinking of installing shiplap to liven up the room. I would like to say that these projects are not adding too much extra weight to the trusses, but I’d like a second opinion.
Thanks!