I am looking for some help in coming up with a way to finish off the tile around the fort of my shower/tub. The tricky part is where the tub meets the front wall; when the previous owners installed tile they went over top of the sheet rock and plaster, which overlapped the cast iron tub. So to get the tub out we had to break the corner bead and plaster. The old sheet rock and plaster combination ends up being about 3/4" thick, so I would have to put 1/2 cement board and then add 1/4" cement board on top to meet where the metal corner bead is.
The issue is that if I trace a line from the edge of the existing wall down, I only have about 1" of space between the tub and the edge of the wall which hardly seems like enough room to put tile (I am tiling the shower with horizontal 24x12 tiles). If I stop the tile in line with the tub its going to stick out about 1" past the tub, then what do I do along the edge of the tub. Removing the corner bead would be very difficult without destroying the plaster on the rest of the front of the little wall, so I want to try and avoid that.
I am trying to come up with a way that I can tile the front and then finish off the bottom, and I cannot seem to come up with a good idea. If I tile front face of that little wall I don't think installing tile over the metal corner bead is a good idea, removing it without destroying the rest of the walls seems difficult too.
Anyone have any ideas, or need any more information or pictures to help me?
Tub is flush again the studs, but the wall is thicker than the framing by close to 1" This leaves less than 1", so tiling it likely won't work Metal corner bead imbedded in plaster.
Not sure why you have qualms about tiling over the corner bead... in pic #2, if its sticking out past the new cement board cut it off with a grinder.
If you are tiling the end of that wall all the way to the ceiling I would add a layer or two of cement board onto the end of that wall. Then use the cement board as a straightedge and fill the gap between the tub and cement board with thinset.
Adding that inch or so onto the end of that wall will make the short pieces of tile that return back to the tub larger, easier to square up and work with.
Thank you for reaching out, we only have a super limited space between that wall and the vanity, so much so that we are going with a 19" vanity to make sure we don't come out any further, we only have 17-18" of space there. But I think you convinced me to bust out the angle grinder and actual cut back the other corner bead and remove the material off the end of that wall completely. Instead of having the 3/4" worth of sheet rock and cement board I can then install some 1/4" cement board and tile over that and it would make my gap between the tup and the edge of the tile small enough that I could caulk it, or finish it off with a Schluter profile or something like that.
Going to be messy grinding that back which was something i was trying to avoid but I think that is the way I have to go.
As another idea, you could get a piece of Onyx (a solid surface that comes in a variety of colors/patterns) and glue that onto the end of your wall instead of cement board. It's maybe 7/16" thick.
If you are concerned about the width in front of that wall, grind both corner beads off and remove the plaster... and get back to the stud. Then glue that Onyx cap on... if its the right width, you could butt your tile right into the end of it as if it was a Schlueter edge / corner.
The closer you would get that piece of Onyx to the tub, the better... since your goal would be to caulk the gap instead of tiling it.
Any custom countertop place could hook you up with something similar out of Corian.
Amazing, my wife and I had just thought of that too, I just rigged up a straight edge on the corner bead (cutting it tomorrow) and we discussed options once I have that down to the bear stud and she mentioned doing a solid surface too.
Excellent, either way it will be one of these ideas, I just needed to commit to gringin away the other corner bead, thank you for this. even just typing out the problem got some other ideas flowing, you were very helpful.
[color=#383a3b]Hello Everyone![/color]
[color=#383a3b]I need help and/or advices, as I am looking to remodel my kitchen.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I want to open it up. It's not really closed though, but I want to open it up all the way.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Here are some pictures :[/color]
[url]https://postimg.cc/gallery/S2XRRpw[/url]
[color=#383a3b]I posted them on a image hosting site, so it is easier to read...[/color]
[color=#383a3b]So basically, I want to remove the wall you can see on picture 1, and maybe picture 8 as well.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I have two scenarios, remove at the starting point of the the arche ( pics 9 & 10) or all the way up to the kitchen ceiling (pics 11 & 12). Ceiling on the other side of the kitchen is way higher.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I am pretty sure these are not bearing, they are made of drywall and sound hollow everywhere.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Ideally, I would remove the walls from the kitchen ceiling all the way to the floor, but that would mean changing the kitchen furniture, and I dont want to do that now, main reason is I want to see how it feels / what it looks like before spending thousands of $ on new furniture. I know I am going to lose storage space (the ones on the wall, pic 6), but that shouldn't be a problem, I'll figure something out.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]The blue wall on pic 8 may go, it may stay there, I don't really have an opinion on that. I think it would be better off gone but I'm not sure.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]So here are my concerns...[/color]
[color=#383a3b]First of all, I am good with tools, but I'm no professional. It doesn't seem that difficult, but I still wonder if I can do it myself.[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I also would like your opinion about the project itself. Think it would look good? Be handy ?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]If yes, where should I cut? My guess is kitchen ceiling but I'd sure like your opinion![/color]
[color=#383a3b]How difficult will it be to move the switches? I sure hope the wires come from the basement... If so, I don't see any problem, right?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Main problem might be the ventilation grate, I am open to suggestions...![/color]
[color=#383a3b]I'm sure I had other questions, but none pops in my head right now... If you could help me plan this, raise issues I had not thought about, etc., that would be great![/color]
[color=#383a3b]Thank you Community![/color]
[color=#383a3b]Nufan[/color]
Hi there,
After installing our fixture in the ceiling, The collar that fits flush to the ceiling, you can still see the hole in the dry wall the electrician cut out. The hole is a bit bigger than the collar of the fixture.
Anyone have any tips on how to cover the outer hole, about 1/2 hangs out only on the south side of the fixture. So not all around it. Again it is close but still looks unfinished. Like it to look more professional.
Thanks!
08-12-21, 02:18 PM
Ideas To Finish a Tricky Bathtub Corner
