Tips on removing lower section of drywall along exterior wall
See pic. I need to remove about 4 inches of drywall between the 2-2x2s you see on the wall. I am running a drain line and supply lines to/from a vanity along this exterior wall. I want the plumbing in the warm side of the insulation so it doesn’t freeze. So I am going to build a small chase to hide the pipes. In order to minimize how far out the chase sticks out, I am removing the drywall where the the 1.5” drain will run to gain an extra 5/8” of space.
I’m looking for feedback on the best way to remove this section of dry wall. I can’t use a drywall saw as there is vapor barrier behind the drywall that I don’t want to cut. Any suggestions on best methods?
Since there are only about 10 small punctures and one cut about 12 inches long, is it even worth buying the tape? I don't mind spending 15$ if it is important, but if it isn't going to make a difference I'll save the money. Thoughts?
I purchased two of these for my bathroom:
[url=https://www.lowes.ca/product/corner-beads/bailey-metal-products-limited-vinyl-drywall-corner-bead-34-in-x-8-ft-2209]Round Vinyl Drywall Corner Bead[/url]
Wondering what's the best way to attach this to the corner of my wall. I've seen several suggestions online:
1. Spray adhesive (actually, it is shown in the above link as a "recommended accessory")
2. Mud (drywall compound)
3. Staples or nails
4. Contact cement
I'm a bit worried about mud allowing the bead to pull away from the wall before it sets. Spray adhesive seems attractive, although messy. Any reason why contact cement would be a bad choice?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Wayne
I've installed a new tub/shower between two previously-existing walls left and right. (See photo.) Around the shower I have framing that is attached to the existing walls. When I added drywall around the tub/shower, I filled any cracks between the old and new drywall on the inside corners with 90 minute hot mud (Sheetrock 90); cracks were all 1/8" or less. The house is 35 years old, so I don't expect movement of the walls from settling or framing that shrinks.
Question: Rather than tape the corners, would it work to apply a bead of paintable caulk to the inside corners after priming?
I have caulk tooling tools that finish caulk nicely that I've used before with good results, but not for inside corners on drywall. Wondering if a paintable caulk would give me a good result without the pain of taping and mudding those corners, which can be fussy for a novice drywaller.
I'd be interested if anyone has any experience with doing this, especially if you've tried both methods and can give an [u]objective[/u] assessment of the pros and cons of each. I'm not really interested in responses like "taping is how the pros do it" or "that's just the way it's supposed to be done" or "that's the way it's always been done". I'm just trying to get a nice job that will look good and last.
Thanks for any insight you can offer.
Wayne
[img]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/shower_9be700fe6055a5c46e98c6edad2cbd6419b4afc0.jpg[/img]
[i]New tub/shower installed between 35-year-old walls with drywall. Flange is screwed into framing members left and right.[/i]