I've installed a new tub/shower between two previously-existing walls left and right. (See photo.) Around the shower I have framing that is attached to the existing walls. When I added drywall around the tub/shower, I filled any cracks between the old and new drywall on the inside corners with 90 minute hot mud (Sheetrock 90); cracks were all 1/8" or less. The house is 35 years old, so I don't expect movement of the walls from settling or framing that shrinks.
Question: Rather than tape the corners, would it work to apply a bead of paintable caulk to the inside corners after priming?
I have caulk tooling tools that finish caulk nicely that I've used before with good results, but not for inside corners on drywall. Wondering if a paintable caulk would give me a good result without the pain of taping and mudding those corners, which can be fussy for a novice drywaller.
I'd be interested if anyone has any experience with doing this, especially if you've tried both methods and can give an objective assessment of the pros and cons of each. I'm not really interested in responses like "taping is how the pros do it" or "that's just the way it's supposed to be done" or "that's the way it's always been done". I'm just trying to get a nice job that will look good and last.
Thanks for any insight you can offer.
Wayne
New tub/shower installed between 35-year-old walls with drywall. Flange is screwed into framing members left and right.
One option if you really don't want to mud an inside corner is to install molding. You can use quarter round or something bigger if you want.
If you decide to do the interior corners there aren't many secrets I'm aware of to make it easy. Much like the rest of sheet rock finishing it's all about experience and gaining a feel for it.
I never found interior corner beads to be much help versus folding paper tape down the middle. Worst is fiber mesh tape. Folding it is a bugger and it doesn't naturally form a straight line so avoid it. I do find a corner trowel to be helpful for the initial stages of finishing as it makes it easy to run down the joint to get a nice straight line in the middle. Then I follow with a normal trowel/knife to feather and finish the outer edges.
See pic. I need to remove about 4 inches of drywall between the 2-2x2s you see on the wall. I am running a drain line and supply lines to/from a vanity along this exterior wall. I want the plumbing in the warm side of the insulation so it doesn’t freeze. So I am going to build a small chase to hide the pipes. In order to minimize how far out the chase sticks out, I am removing the drywall where the the 1.5” drain will run to gain an extra 5/8” of space.
I’m looking for feedback on the best way to remove this section of dry wall. I can’t use a drywall saw as there is vapor barrier behind the drywall that I don’t want to cut. Any suggestions on best methods?
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Hello there, everyone!
I hope this is posted in the correct spot. I purchased a house with a separategarage with a living space above and am now tasked with bringing it up to code. Part of that process is installing 5/8 drywall on the ceiling of the garage. My issue is the installed automotive lift is actually extends beyond the plane of drywall and into the joist cavity.
What can I do to bring this to code? Can I drywall around it, just as I would any other protrusion through the drywall space like pipes, posts and whatnot, using a firestop caulk to seal between the lift metal and drywall?
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