Hopefully I can offer enough information so that someone can figure this out. I had a photography studio about 20 years ago that had brick walls. I bought a material (which I need to know the name of) and attached it to the cement wall. I used it because it was easy to staple paper photography backgrounds to it. It was brown, came in 4' x 8' sheets, approximately a 1/2" thick, and sorta seemed like particle board only softer. It was great because it held the staples in and didn't crumble - but also wasn't too hard to staple paper easily to it. I bought it at the home depot but now can't find it. Any ideas what that material was?????

 

I can only think of a cork product. Comes in several thicknesses but is very expensive.

 

I imaging a cork bulletin board from the description so I have the same thought as Pete.

Much smaller example:
https://www.amazon.com/Cork-Sheet-Pl...67095438&psc=1

 

Sounds like Homosote sound board or some similar type of fiber sheathing.

 

You must be referring to fiberboard sheathing.
This product was popular years ago but haven't seen it used lately.
Locally it was referred to as "Buffalo Board" but I see there is also a flooring product with that name.

 

I looked at the homosote and that was it! thanks you. I have one more question though. I have to attach it to my wall in a partially finished basement. I believe it is cinder blocks that have been painted. Would I just use screws meant for cement?

 

You don't usually want to put a lot of holes in a cement block wall, since it is hollow and could potentially leak. And I don't think Homosote encourages placing their product directly on a block wall. I think they are fearful of it absorbing moisture if the wall gets wet.

So I'd suggest you install 1x2 or 1x4 vertically across the walls on 16" centers. Use 6 or 7 blobs of construction adhesive (such as PL200, PL375, PL400, or Liquid Nails) behind the wood furring so that you only have to place about 3 fasteners in each one. Predrill your 1x2 or 1x4 for the tapcons to make it easier... then use a hammer drill to drill through the concrete block. I'd recommend 1/4" x 1 3/4" #3 phillips bugle head tapcons, and keep the lowest one about 12" above the floor. If the tapcons want to strip, it's because you are torquing them to much. Just bring them up snug. And you may find that countersinking a hole about 1/8" into the furring with a 1/2" spade bit will help. Once all the furring is up you can attach the Homosote to the wall with 1" long truss head screws.

1x4s will give you a wider target to hit so you might consider that. You can use 1x2s but your layout will need to be perfectly plumb and perfectly spaced or you will run off layout as you install the 4x8 sheets. And you need to "fall back" on your layout initially... meaning that wherever your first 1x2 (or 1x4) is, the distance to the CENTER of the next row will be 16" as measured from the far edge of your first one. Then from that point on, everything will be 16" on center. (Meaning center to center). The purpose of "falling back" on that initial layout is simply so that your 4x8 pieces will land in the center of your layout.