Older home with no space between floors so AC folks had to get creative with running ductwork.
So I have to frame it in for drywall but am concerned about sagging, especially with the longer ribs. I was thinking that maybe I should attach a verticle 2x4 from each rib up to the joist above it as close to the center of the rib as possible. One of the longer ribs runs down the center of the duct so will not be able to do that. Any suggestions much appreciated.
Well a pro would probably frame it differently. You have no fireblocking and nothing to keep things aligned in a straight line.
Bottom pic: Best way I have found to do it would be like framing a short wall that hangs down from the ceiling... a top plate nailed flat to the bottom of your floor joists, studs 16" on center, and a bottom plate that would be about 2" below your ductwork.
Then on your back wall you need a ledger flat against the concrete blocks. It looks like yours is laying on TOP of your wall furring. (Those gaps behind the ledger need fireblocking) Then I would use a 1 5/8" steel stud track, fastened to that ledger in back, and to the back of that short wall hanging down from the ceiling in front. Then lay your flat 2x4s horizontally in that steel stud track. In the link above the measurements are correct but the HD photo is not accurate. It's actually about the size of a 2x2, and your 2x4s will slip right into it when laid flat.
And then in the front portion of your top pic I would frame that the same way I mentioned above, but you would kick down with a shorter wall in the middle where ever possible, so that the middle of the ceiling span could be supported.
One question ....... I assume the strud track is being attached to the back of the hanging short wall so that the bottom of the plate is flush with the bottom of the track or stud that goes in it. How would you attach the stud track to the side of the plate? They're open ended.
The stud track is U shaped. When building a vertical wall you usually fasten the bottom of the stud track to the floor and ceiling. In your case you are turning it on its side... so what is normally the bottom will be on its side and screwed to the wall ledger on one side and to the back side of the bottom plate on the other. And yes, it will be flush with the bottom of your bottom plate. (That is why your short wall is 2" longer than the duct... so that you have about 1/2" of room between those flat 2x4s and your ductwork. Nothing should touch or be fastened to the ductwork.
Then when you slip your flat 2x4s into it (cut them about 3/8" short), you will put pairs of truss head screws (example) through the side of the metal track... screwing straight up into each end of the 2x4s. Use those same screws to fasten the stud track to the ledger and back of your short wall that hangs from the ceiling, every 16 or so.
Hello!
Water was getting behind this wall and I removed where there was damage. It was early 60's construction where tile wedges were also cemented to the tub. Getting those off and using a non-abrasive wheel attachment to remove the cement was awful, but I didn't damage the tub to the point where I'm going to still keep it.
The issue I'm running into now is HardieBacker comes in 1/4" and 1/2" slabs so the seams won't match. I'm no expert but the tub placement has me scratching my head. For example, if I were to remove the rear wall, I would still need 3/4" of some material or it won't be flush with the tub. I won't have that problem with the front or side using 1/4" material. Half inch protrudes just a bit whereas 1/4" barely touches the tub. I think 3/4" material against the front and side protrude a lot into the tub whereas it's more of a clean look in the back. I'm assuming what they did back when the house was built was correct but it sure took up a lot of the real estate to set soap or whatever on the ledges. Since water wasn't reaching the rear causing any damage I don't think I have to remove the rear wall as long as I can get a clean flat surface for the surround to stick.
Going back to how they don't build them like they used to...man there is a lot of wire mesh in the corners that was difficult to pull out. Knowing what I know now I can probably remove the wall up to the ceiling without too much trouble. I don't know how difficult it will be yet to get a clean seam in the corners if I go that route. I'm assuming I will have to use wire snips around the ceiling to prevent me from ripping down part of the ceiling.
Would I be better off removing the rest of the material up to the ceiling or using 1/4" furring strips with 1/2" HardieBacker? I was going to use a MirroFlex surround that should run up to the ceiling. If I keep the remaining wall IDK if the MirroFlex would adhere to the old wall/paint long term.
Any feedback is appreciated!
[img]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x456/bathroom_tub_wall_1_217a87ee3bd516d48172a3e23f28707b9d79bf42.png[/img]
[i]3/4'' Plaster[/i]
[img]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x503/bathroom_tub_wall_2_eb5b08b75d3f71fdebee45a4d032209ca1c7ce91.png[/img]
[color=#383a3b]I've noticed this in a couple vertical corners in a couple closets in our 50+ year old house. I guess there was settling / the tape over the sheetrock tore?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]I haven't sheetrocked / taped much at all and it was a long time ago. Anything interesting about this / what it means?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Or just clear out the old tape and... retape? Or can I caulk? If there's a gap behind the tape (the sheetrock pieces don't touch) should I caulk back there, then tape?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Paper tape the way to do it?[/color]
[color=#383a3b]Thanks![/color]
[img]https://www.diychatroom.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/2023-03-02-19-16-37-jpg.733474/[/img]
02-26-23, 12:02 PM
