Is there a trick to anchoring screws into metal wall studs, or a special type screw to use? I was trying to install shower curtain rods & the end flanges, but had great difficulty using a power drill & conventional screw fasteners. When attempting to secure the fastener through the flange on the outside shower curtain corners, as well as at the shower stall itself, the screw didn't want to penetrate, but instead had a bouncy, resistant, pushing back type feel.
If you look closely, you'll see that I couldn't even get two screws in.
Metal studs are basically sheet metal and are very lightweight metal (24ga). Most sharp pointed screws (Ex: sheetrock screws) should penetrate without too much trouble. If you are having a tough time they might be structural metal which you can use self-tapping screws like PJ posted.
If you are still having trouble I would be worried that you are not drilling into a stud, but something else you may not want to drill into.
"...conventional screw fasteners." Whatever that means.
I would expect to hit a stud at very the end of the wall, but not where you are drilling. If you measure back from the very end of the wall the stud probably is between 1/2" and 2" back from the end. If looks like you are further back than that so you might not be hitting the stud. Almost any screw can easily go through sheetrock so you are hitting "something". The key is to determine what you are hitting. It could be a steel plate protecting electrical wiring. It could be masonry. It could be a plumbing pipe. Try looking in the holes you made. It should be able to at least tell if it's masonry or metal that you're hitting.
Yes... metal studs will be bouncy and not very wide.
Typically only about an inch wide so you'd only be able to catch two screws with that flange.
With metal studs you need to drill a hole thru the stud for the screw or use self drilling screws.
You would need to practice with the self drilling screws as they're a little unwieldy.
Many times I'll pre-drill a hole in the metal stud even when using self drilling screws.
A 1/8" hole is usually good.
Many different sizes and type of self drilling screws available.....
I tried pre-drilling a hole in the metal stud, but it too was bouncy & wouldn't penetrate the stud, but would rather just spin without penetration. What type of drill bit is recommended for pre-drilling/creating a pilot hole in the metal stud, prior to securing with the self-drilling screws?
Last edited by bobioni57; 11-18-23 at 09:18 PM.
Reason: Rephrase the statement
Steel studs are "[" shaped. If you put a screw in closer to the wide dimension there is not as much room for the part you are screwing into to flex. So try moving your screw or drill bit left or right a half inch. One of three things will happen. The stud will flex worse, or you will miss the stud entirely, or you will be close enough to the wide part of the stud that it can't flex as much and you will get penetration.
Metal studs are basically sheet metal and are very lightweight metal (24ga). Most sharp pointed screws (Ex: sheetrock screws) should penetrate without too much trouble. If you are having a tough time they might be structural metal which you can use self-tapping screws like PJ posted.
If you are still having trouble I would be worried that you are not drilling into a stud, but something else you may not want to drill into.
Thanks very much to PJmax & Tolyn Ironhand. The pilot hole (used a cobalt bit) & self-drilling screws did the job with ease. This was in a yoga studio, that I attend, & I had a clear view down the wall, after removing a drop-ceiling tile, to assure that I was drilling into a metal stud only.
Hi. This is a home project. Hope it's okay.
In a large room, I have a rope anchored to 3 of these (below), each rated for 950 lbs. The wood screws are all in studs tightened by ratchet.
[url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5FBD62?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5FBD62?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1[/url]
Two brackets are 12 feet apart (opposite walls) and 10.5 feet up. The third bracket is at waist level directly below one overhead bracket. That is used to tension the rope by a caribiner/rope ascender pulley.
My question is, when something is hung from the span of rope crossing the room (alpine loop knot), is the weight distribution equal between the 3 brackets?
This carries aerial yoga fabric. So the weight on the rope is 120 to 170 lbs, not moving. With 35 lbs. tension by the pulley, is the force on each bracket Person + 35 divided by 3?Read More
Hello Folks,
Few months ago, the drain in my bathtub seemed to have come loose without me noticing it; so, water leaked from the bathroom upstairs down to the kitchen ceiling. It was not too bad, and the sheetrock was intact but had water stain. The kitchen walls have some tone of beige and the ceiling has a tone of white (weak white, not shining like semi-gloss or gloss). And both the walls and ceiling have knock-down texture.
Back then, my approach was (one it had dried out) to first use a stain blocker or primer. Once the stain blocker was applied, took some small sample off the ceiling color and went to the hardware store to get small pot of paint. The paint did not match well, then I tried another, anoter sample from a different hardware store, another from another hardware store… None of them was a perfect match.
The end result was that now there are so many layers of paint that the space between the ceiling texture elements got filled with paint on that spot of the ceiling. In an attempt to remove most of the pain, tried a paint remover spray literally dozens of times to no avail. The following:
[url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DBQ7U0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Sunnyside Corporation 66432 Ready-Strip Paint Overspray & Spatters Remover, Quart Trigger Spray, 6 Count - Multipurpose Cleaners - Amazon.com[/url]
The paint remover spray removes almost nothing.
At this point, it probably would better to repaint the whole ceiling in this area. But first, it needs to be fixed: excess paint removed and maybe redo the knock-down texture if needed be.
Any advice on how to remove the paint (apart from sanding it) and how to redo the texture (in case it is needed) would be appreciated.
Below is a pic of the aggravated spot on the ceiling.
[img]https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/1500x2000/53348922122_5ead09bb58_k_a04de170e53c33fe3ef45dfcd2e7eb5d0635ee03.jpg[/img]
[i]Kitchen ceiling aggravated spot [/i]
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11-17-23, 11:27 PM
