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Tank Type Water Heater Draining & Flushing Information. Tankless Info Included.

Tank Type Water Heater Draining & Flushing Information. Tankless Info Included.

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  #1  
Old 06-11-03, 11:43 AM
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Arrow Tank Type Water Heater Draining & Flushing Information. Tank-less Info Included.

Hello Do-It-Yourself Members.

FYI TOPIC:
Provided to assist you with "Basic Tank Type Water Heater Maintenance Information."

Topics Covered:
Tank Flushing and Draining.
Explanation of The Terms.
Information and Procedures To Accomplish The Task.

Safety Warnings:
Follow all manufacturers instructions.
Draining Requires Turning Off The Appliance First.
Be aware that HOT water can cause personal injuries and damage to surrounding areas.

Spring has almost arrived in many parts of the country. With the arrival of spring, it's a good practice to do the recommended yearly water heater maintenance procedure.

Within this forum on gas appliances and within the plumbing forum, there are often questions asked, references made to and replies posted regarding either FLUSHING of a water heater tank or the DRAINING a water heater tank.

There are differences between draining and flushing and often the terms are accidentally interchanged and or used incorrectly. Draining refers to emptying the tank while flushing refers to removing debris from within the tank.

TANK DRAINING PROCEDURE:
At times it may become necessary to drain {empty} the water heater tank for various reasons. Replacing the tank with a new tank, moving the tanks current location to another location, installing replacement parts to the current tank, etc.

If you have a need to do so, the very first step is to turn OFF the gas or electric supply to the tank! Without water in the tank, the temperature sensing element or elements will cool off, do to the lack of hot water.

Without water in the tank, it is essential to turn off the energy source prior to draining the tank. Failure to do so will cause permanent damage to the control, burner, electrical elements, tank and any other parts.

Second step in the draining process's to turn OFF the incoming water supply. The COLD water inlet supply valve will be on the inlet water pipe located on the right side of the tank at the top.

The valve may be one of two commonly used varieties. A gate valve, which has a round knob that is turned in wards {clockwise} until fully seated in the closed position.

The other type is the newer ball valve variety. This valve will have a lever that is turned so the lever handle is no longer parallel to the pipe. Instead, the lever handle will be across the pipe.

Third step is to OPEN at least one HOT water faucet within the house. By doing so, internal water pressure within the tank will be relieved.

Air will than be allowed to enter through the opened faucet to help displace the water in the tank. Failure to execute this step will result in the tank not completely emptying.

Fourth step is to locate the faucet {Spigot} on the tank. These faucets are always located near the bottom of the tank next to the thermostat temperature control dial or lower thermostat on electric water heater tanks.

On to this spigot, attach a common garden hose and place the other end of the hose where the exiting hot water will be safe to flow and the hot water will not cause damages to the surrounding areas.

Once the garden hose is attached to the spigot or faucet on the tank, OPEN the valve and allow the entire tank to DRAIN until fully emptied. This process may take several minutes. Be patient.

TANK FLUSHING PROCEDURE:
It is often recommended and also a good idea to FLUSH a water heater tank yearly. The reasoning behind this maintenance procedure is to flush out accumulated sediment and rust particles that will naturally settle and on the bottom of the tank.

Sediment is found within all supplies of water more or less to some degree. Rust comes from the tanks interior, do to normal tank aging, the iron pipes within the houses piping system, those of the main supply, the streets piping system and other sources, depending on the water supply.

TANK FLUSHING METHOD:
To successfully accomplish the tank flushing task, simply attach a common garden hose to the water heaters faucet. To flush the tank, there is NO need to turn off the gas or electrical supply nor open any hot water faucet within the house.

Leave the inlet water supply valve ON. Just attach the garden hose to the tanks faucet, place the other end in a location where HOT water will do no damage and then simply OPEN the tanks faucet valve.

Allow the existing HOT water to flow out until it does so cleanly and clearly. Depending upon the amount of rust and debris inside the tank, this step may take less than one minute or several minutes to completely and fully accomplish.

Be patient. Depending upon the amount of sediment and rust contained within the tank and how often this process is done, will determine the amount of time required to fully complete the tank flushing process.

Once this process is accomplished, CLOSE the tanks faucet valve.

Remove the garden hose from the faucet.

PRESTO! The FLUSHING is completed.

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...740#post556740

Helpful Links Below:

Hot Water Circulatory Systems:
http://www.rewci.com/

Information About Anodes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pa...ter-anodes.html
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com

How To Determine Water Leakage In Piping Exists:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=164130

Disclaimer:
The information above is offered to provide basic information and instructional methods and procedures only.

Methods and procedures apply only to tank type water heaters. Results and methods may vary slightly by tank manufacturer or design.

Always read your owners manual and closely follow the advice and procedures given in the booklet or on the label instructions attached to the tank. Always follow all safety warnings!

Tank less Water Heater Information & Links:
Water Heater Help and Information Pages On Do-It-Yourself.

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...6740#post556740

Tank & Tank-Less Water Heater Informational Links:

http://www.tanklesswaterheater.com

http://www.titanheater.com

http://www.realgoods.com

http://www.controlledenergy.com

http://www.e-tankless.com

http://www.sets-tankless.com

http://www.tanklesswaterheater.com

http://www.eemaxinc.com

http://www.gotankless.com

http://www.tankless-water-heater.com/what_to_expect.htm

http://www.faucetdepot.com

http://www.irawoodinc.com

http://www.seisco.com

Any additional links to be added or any which do not work, etc. kindly advise the forums moderators via a PM. Thanks.

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-22-07 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Updating. 12-22-07
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  #2  
Old 11-05-05, 08:02 AM
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Arrow Tankless Hot Water Heater Information

FYI:
Facts, Opinions, Suggestions and Experiences.
Original Posting Dated: 11-05-2000

Tank less Hot Water Heaters:
Used for Residential hot water.
Items to consider before making any purchase.

Several questions have been posted on the topic of tank less water heaters. With that thought in mind, to the best of my knowledge and experiences, I hope to more fully explain the origins, applications, benefits and drawbacks to this product.

The name 'tank less' is the commonly used generic term for what is known in the trade industry as an 'instantaneous' water heater. Tank less water heaters are not new. They've been around for many years.

Initially designed and equipped for industries where storage space is limited but vast quantities of endless hot water is needed. These units are also used at large multi-unit residential complexes and mid-sized businesses for the same reasons. Instantaneous water heaters are also used as residential pool and spa water heaters.

Over the years, the design and applications have been modified and changed to became much smaller in size. The benefit to the instantaneous Tank Less Instantaneous water heaters smaller size was to appeal to the broader residential retail sales market.

During my many plus years working in the gas appliance industry, about the only real problem found with tank less instantaneous was parts availability and qualified repair services.

A combination of problems and unplanned events in years past, caused an otherwise fine product to almost totally fail in the retail residential market place. There is always exceptions to every rule. Therefore, in some parts of the country, this type of water heating unit used in homes may be more common than in other areas.

The major problem was the lack of infrastructure network of distributors, retail outlets, parts availability. Couple that with lack of localized, well trained, qualified, knowledgeable and experienced plumbing companies and independent local repair persons and or service agencies, and failure became assured.

Although the tank less units worked well, have several benefits over the tank type units, the above conditions and several other factors, including meeting city, state and local plumbing codes, etc, made the residential ownership of these types of water heaters doubtful.

Such may not be the case in every region of the country. However, prior to purchasing this type of unit, regardless of brand name, I would suggest and recommend you inquire into the potential problem possibilities mentioned above.

This is especially true, in my opinion, if your area's local larger retail plumbing companies do not advertise nor display these units in their stores. Keep in mind here, I am not referring to the nationwide large retail chain hardware stores. These stores are perfectly fine for their intended purposes. However, keep in mind their objective is selling and not after sales service.

In the case of the large retail chain stores, the installations may only be handled by subcontractors. Which may not be in your best interests when it comes time for service, several years later. That's when your local plumbing company is the major benefit over cost savings offered by the chain hardware stores.

Should you still be determined to save a few cents and purchase one of these units at a nationwide discount chain hardware store, attempt to obtain a list of installing contractors from that retailer with references of prior residential installations in your area.

If your wondering why I recommend all this preliminary ground work be done prior to making a purchase is necessary, consider this fact. When your unit fails to operate and you find yourself totally without HOT water, you could still be in HOT water.

You'll find yourself scrambling around to locate a plumbing company or service agent that services these units and or find a replacement parts dealer, when none is to be found! That's really being in HOT water!

The condition mentioned above, is when a "Tank less" water heater quickly becomes a "Thank-less" water heater. In my many years of service, I have found many such cases.

Based on the above information and in my opinion, my best suggestion is to buy any brand named unit sold exclusively by your local authorized and licensed plumbing contractor, company or dealer. In this way, your most likely to get better product, installation and service information and be assured all of your future needs will be met.

If you do purchase a tank less advertise several tank less water heater without thinking about future parts availability and local service needs, is to scroll up to the top of this forum. Print this article and post it next to your newly installed "Tank-less" water heater. When the day arrives and your "Thank-less" water heater fails to operate, don't say "Sharp Advice" didn't warn me.

Refer to the google advertisement sites in this topic.
Also those listed in the related links to the right>>>

Always consider the warranties and future service needs for any major appliances you may be considering purchasing. Price isn't always the best guide for the long term.

Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 08-27-06 at 07:54 AM.
  #3  
Old 08-24-06, 10:57 AM
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Arrow Basic Tank Type Water Heater Help & Information

Below is basic help information pertaining to tank type water heaters. The information is rewritten in easy to understand language. Taken from multiple sources and based upon basic appliance diagnostic services.

It is highly suggested checking the basics before assuming there is a mechanical problem or part failure before attempting any repairs. Read your owners manual for additional brand specific information and instructions.

Safety Concerns:

If you smell gas, do not try to light the water heater or any appliances in that area. Do not turn on or turn off any electrical switch. Immediately contact your gas supplier. If you cannot contact the gas supplier, call the local fire department.

Do not use or store gasoline, use flammable liquids or any products which produce flammable vapors near any gas appliance.

Tank Type Water Heater Safety Awareness:

Water heaters are one of the gas appliances that are all to often overlooked on the maintenance issue. They are almost always installed in a location obstructed from plain view by intent. We forget they are there, as they provide thousands of gallons of hot water over the life of the tank.

By design, tank type units draw in large amounts of combustion air from the underside of the tank. In doing so, lint and dust become collected in the area around the base of the tank and inside the burner compartment. Lint, dust, pet hairs, etc. being well aerated and dry, makes it a highly flammable material.

Part of every spring cleaning activity, water heaters should be inspected for proper operation and cleanliness around the area. Failure to do so, the problems associated with the units can become potentially hazardous to both a persons property and health.

Many city, county and state codes require a water heater to be raised 18 inches or more above the floor level, when installed inside areas of the home. Such areas can be but are not limited to basements and garages.

Often times a noise is associated with one of the early warning signs of troubles. A sputtering or popping noise. The sputtering or popping type noise is most likely caused by restricted burner ports on the round burner head.

Simple cleaning to remove accumulated lint and dust cures this problem. The remainder of the time a popping or sputtering noise isn't a good sign.

Normal dust and lint have restricted the burner ports and or secondary air shutter. Many times some or all of the flames that should be burning around the burner head are actually burning within the air shutter opening beneath the burner head. Visual signs of this condition can be verified. Corrective actions then need to be taken immediately.

The secondary air shutter opening is located directly beneath the burner head. There should never be flames there. If there are flames there while the burner is on, the burner head is restricted and must be cleared.

Removal of the entire burner assembly is required, cleaning the burner head and reinstalling it cures the problem. Unless it is already to late and SOOT has formed.

Formation of soot and or carbon deposits in the firebox. Lack of air. Clogged flue. Orifice too large. Defective thermostat control or defective internal gas regulator. Lack of air. Heater installed in a confined space. Burner flame yellowed and burning improperly.

Problems which cause flame distortion, complete gas combustion will not take place and black soot and carbon will form. These are not a conditions the DoItYourself person should attempt to correct. If soot is present inside the firebox, get professional help from your gas utility or a licensed plumber.

Complete combustion is not solely dependent upon a clean burner and burner compartment. Other factors can cause soot to form. Inside the flue of the tank is a spiral baffle. It's purpose is to accurately control the escape of the heat produced by the gas combustion process. These internal baffles sometimes deteriorate and may partially or fully collapse.

A collapsed or restrictive baffle will drastically restrict the up wards flow of flue gas and fumes. In doing so, it distorts the natural flame design and up wards flow of hot fumes. Which causes incomplete combustion which in turn causes toxic fumes carbon monoxides and soot.

Another factor that can and does cause soot, is restricted primary air. The enclosure the water heater is in must be properly ventilated. A restricted air enclosure around the tank or any gas appliance, can cause incomplete combustion and smothering flames leading to soot formations. Refer to combustion air below.

Water inside the firebox. If this condition exists, the tank has a water leak either in the firebox itself or the vent flue within the tank. Tank replacement is suggested.

>>>CAUTIONS:<<<
Hydrogen gas can be produced in any hot water heating system that is not used for several weeks. Hydrogen gas is highly flammable and can ignite when exposed to a spark or a flame.

To prevent the possibility of of injury under this condition, run a hot water faucet for several minutes. The sound of hydrogen gas presence in the water will produce a sound of air escaping through the faucet as water begins to flow out. Allow all air to flow out before turning off the faucet.

Soot indicates there is a major problem with the appliance.Evidence of soot on any gas appliance needs to be evaluated to determine the exact cause. The corrective actions and procedures necessary to correct the problem should only be done by a licensed professional.

CLOUDY WATER:
Chances are the tank needs to be flushed. The method and procedures are already posted within this forum. Try flushing the tank and note the results.

Another possibility is the faucet heads. Remove them and clean them. While each is off the faucet, run the hot water to flush the piping system. Allow the hot water to run until it comes out clear. Then reinstall the aerators back onto the faucets.

It's always possible the tank is internally rusted out beyond the ability of flushing the tank & flushing piping lines out to correct the problem. A new tank would then be required.

Other possibilities may be the water supply, which is out of your control. Heating often does slightly change the molecule structure of the water based on the mineral contents within the water.

The piping system and lines within your structure may also be all or part of the problem. Only your licensed plumber would know if the piping system was the direct cause of the problem and or if the tank is the problem.

PERCOLATING - Noises or Noisy Tanks:
Water heaters that make noises or sounds like they are percolating is caused by excessive sediment deposits on the bottom of the tank. The noise is commonly referred to as "percolating."

Which means the heat transfer to the water must pass through a layer of sediment, which causes the water to actually boil close to the bottom of the tank.

Thus the boiling is the method and means used to pass the heat through the sediment to heat the water inside the tank. This also causes a very high concentration of heat at the base of the tank.

To help resolve the problem, tank flushing is required. See the posted topic at the topic of the forums list of questions. Read the tank flushing instructions and flush the tank.

Tank flushing usually but not always resolves the problem. Tanks that have not been flushed yearly may have an excessive amount of sediment which has already baked onto the bottom of the tank.

Older tanks also acquire this problem despite frequent flushing and tanks used in high sediment water supplies. If flushing does not resolve the problem, tank replacement is the only solution.

TANK FLUSHING REASONS:
It is often recommended and also a good idea to FLUSH a water heater tank yearly. The reasoning behind this maintenance procedure is to flush out sediment and rust particles that will naturally settle and accumulate on the bottom of the tank.

Sediment is found within almost all supplies of water more to some degree. Rust comes from the tanks interior, do to normal tank aging, iron pipes within the houses own water piping system, those of the main water supply from the streets piping system and other sources, depending on the water supply.

TANK FLUSHING METHOD:
To successfully accomplish this task, simply attach a common garden hose to the water heaters faucet. To flush the tank, there is no need to turn off the gas. Leave the inlet water supply valve on.

Simply attach the garden hose to the faucet or spigot, place the other end in a location where hot water will not cause damage and simply open the tanks faucet valve.

Allow the existing hot water to flow out of the hoses end until it does so cleanly and clearly. Depending upon the amount of rust, sediment and debris inside the tank, this process may take less than one minute or several minutes to accomplish.

Once this is accomplished and your satisfied the exiting water is flowing cleanly, close the tanks faucet valve. Remove the garden hose from the faucet or spigot.

SIZZLING SOUNDS:
That sizzling sound may be an early indication of a pin hole leak in the tank. To determine if that is so, turn the thermostat down to it's lowest temperature setting for now.

Remove the decorative outer cover first. Than remove the inner firebox cover. Use caution. The metal may be hot but not likely if the outlet water is cold.

Look inside the firebox from a distance. You are looking for rust spots, rust scales or any such indications of such. If any are present, water is entering the firebox via a pin hole in the tank.

Depending upon the age of the tank, more than 10 years, likely there is an internal water leak in the tank. If the tank is less than 10 years old and you have the warranty to prove such, contact the mfg or a plumbing agent whom does warranty services for the brand.

If no warranty is available or the tank is out of warranty, etc, and rust, scale is evident, time for tank replacement. If no evidence is present, you can move back at arms length, turn up the T Stat to it's highest setting and allow the burner to fire up.

Shortly there after water droplets should be visible dropping down onto the burner. If so, the tank will need to be replaced. If no water droplets are present after 10 minutes, tanks okay.

COMBUSTION AIR:
The formula for calculating the required amount of intake air is a minimum of 1 square inch of intake air per 1,000 Btu's of appliance rating. Which means there must be 1 square inch of combustion air for each 1,000 Btu's. Check the appliance rating plate.

Half of the total square inches must be in the ceiling or from 12 inches below the ceiling. The other half down at the base of the wall or 12 inches above the floor level. None of this air can come from within the living area of the home.

Each half of the half has to be equally spaced on either side. This rule applies to appliance in closets and inclosure's. Attics, basements and sheds may have slightly different variations.

The supplied air must be supplied from outside or from either under the house on a raised foundation flooring or from the attic, if there is an attic. At no time should the air be taken from inside the living area. Codes vary. Check those in your area. Contact the local building and safety department in you city, town or local area.

Usually the gas utility company has service persons whom may provide insight and determinations. At other times it will take a plumbing professional, local inspector or building contractor.

CONTROL REPLACEMENT:
To replace the entire control, turn off the incoming water valve. Open any hot water faucet to relieve the water pressure. Turn of the gas supply at the isolation valve where the flex connector is attached to the supply pipe.

Than remove the flex gas inlet line from the control valve. Remove the three lines under the control valve. No need to remove the parts from inside the firebox.

Using a mechanics strap wrench, wrap it around the outside diameter of the control and unscrew it out of the tank. Apply any type of common household oil, motor oil of any type or any type of automotive grease to the threads of the new part and screw it into the same place the old control was removed from.

Reinstall the three lines removed prior. Reconnect the gas flex line. Turn the water inlet valve back on. Open any hot water faucet to bleed out any air from the tank. Close sink faucet when done bleeding out air.

Turn on the gas supply shut off isolation valve on the supply pipe. Check for leaks with soapy water or leak detection soap. Light up the pilot. Turn on the burner. Recheck for leaks under the temperature control unit.

TEMPERATURE - PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE LEAKS:
If the water is coming out of the pressure-temperature valve, chances are that valve has rust and or sediment under the seat of the valves shut off.

Lifting the lever slightly will allow water to come out faster. Doing so may or may not flush out the sediment or rust. Lift the lever only part way not all the way. Just enough to allow water to forcefully flush out and just enough till the water appears clean.

Doing so might clean out the valves seat & washer. Not always but sometimes. If it seems to work, check it several times or the next few days. May or may not totally solve the problem.

If at anytime flushing the valve does not work, valve replacement is the only know solution. Tanking flushing is also recommended. The instructions for tank flushing can be found in a topic above.

The relief valve could be defective. Replacing it could solve the problem. Too much inlet water pressure and or the thermostats water temperature is set too high or there is sediment under the seat of the valve or in the tank.

VENT TESTING:
A venting system not functioning correctly can be highly dangerous. Fumes can & will contain carbon monoxides. The amounts vary. None is acceptable in the living environment once the vent pipe heats up.

If there is suspicions of fumes entering the living area as a result of a blocked and or restricted venting system, it is highly suggested to have a professional test the system.

Most gas companies, natural or propane, do this simple test to ensure public safety. As well as plumbers & installers of water heaters and room/house heating agents, etc.

In order for drafting to take place, the venting system has to have hot gases attempting to escape up the vent pipe. The roof top vent cap does not allow much outside air to enter down the vent pipe.

If the roof top vent cap on the outside rooftop vent pipe is installed correctly, by this I mean not pushed down too much on the exposed pipe end, the cap will do it's job.

Allow hot fumes and gases to escape out to the outside but not allow outside air forced by winds to back flow down the vent pipe.

The down draft Diverter cap installed correctly on the top of the water heater will set up on it's legs. The vent pipe onto it. The open space just beneath the cap and that above the water heaters built in flue pipe, is the space where inside air enters to the vent pipe to help dilute the hot escaping gases and fumes.

Once the water heater, a non power vented type, is warmed up after being on for 5 minutes max time, that space should be drawing in and up wards air very close to it.

The test to verify if inside air is being drawn up wards into the space between the water heaters flue and the down drafters cap, is to strike a stick match. Once a flame is established on the match, put the flame close to that open space.

The down draft diver tor cap installed correctly on the top of the water heater will set up on it's legs. The vent pipe onto it. The open space just beneath the cap and that above the water heaters built in flue pipe, is the space where inside air enters to the vent pipe to help dilute the hot escaping gases and fumes.

Once the water heater, a non power vented type, is warmed up after being on for 5 minutes max time, that space should be drawing in and up wards air very close to it.

The test to verify if inside air is being drawn up wards into the space between the water heaters flue and the down drafters cap, the method is to use a stick match. Once a flame is established on the match, put the flame close to that open space.

Allow the flames to from the match to be drawn to wards the flow of air without being so close the air snuffs the match. The match flames should tilt in wards toward the cap.

This simple test shows the air flow direction. The flames can be allowed to burn down the match stick without going out until the flame gets close to your fingers.

If the reverse happens in the test, the flames snuff out, the match may be too close and or too far. If the match is held in the close to area but not inside the area space and the flames snuff out or point away from the space, the venting system is defective.

The defect may be caused by several conditions. Most commonly is an incorrectly installed vent cap on the outside vent pipe. As noted in detail above. The other may be a clogged, bent, damaged and or somehow restricted venting pipe.

In rare but possible instances, an interior inside the room and or closet space the appliance is in can cause a reverse venting effect. Professional help is highly suggested.

T-STAT TEST:
A quick test of the thermostat may be to remove the temp knob. Rotate the key point the knob is attached to. Use your fingers. Turn it clockwise to it's max amount. The burner should fire up. If not, the thermostat may have already heated the water to it's maximum or recently turned off.

If the pilot light is not on or goes out repeatedly or occasionally, the information provided below may help to determine the problem and help to resolve it.

REPLACING A THERMOCOUPLE:
Usually the pilot will go out if a thermocouple is defective. Usually but not always. Replacing the thermocouple may correct the problem of pilot outages.

If the pilot is present on, allow time for the T-Couple to cool. About 15 minutes. You should hear a click shortly after the pilot flame goes out. The click is a tiny sound so you must listen carefully.

After 15 minutes attempt to relight the pilot. Rotate the top selection knob to PILOT. Depress the "RED" button and hold it down while lighting the pilot. Continue to hold that red button down for 1 full minute.

After that 1 minute time has passed, release the red button. The pilot flame should remain on. If not, the T-Couple is defective and must be replaced.

If replacing the T-Couple does not resolve the pilot outage problem, the part is installed correctly and being heated correctly and fully, (all BLUE pilot flame) replacing the magneto may be required. Replacing the mag and the T-couple does not correct the problem, the thermostat is defective.

MAGNETO REPLACEMENT:
Replacing this part is not difficult. The magneto is the part the threaded end of the thermocouple screws into. It's located on the control valve. Left side under the temp adjustment dial.

The magneto is the part the threaded end of the thermocouple screws into. It's located on the control valve. Left side under the temp adjustment dial. Should have a red cap on it.

The part threads out of the control. Replacement is easy. Use a light amount of tension when tightening in the new part. Do not apply any thread compound to the threads. They must be grounded to the control. Thread compound will reduce metal to metal contact.

PILOT LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS:
The correct procedure is to always use EXTREME caution at all times. For personal safety, turn the selector knob to the "OFF" position and wait 5 minutes.

The pilot assembly will be at the end of the aluminum pilot tube exiting the gas control valve. The correct place to light the pilot, will be at the very top of the assembly up inside the firebox.

After the pilot lights, continue to hold that reset button down for about 45 to 60 seconds or so, then release it. The pilot flame should remain "ON." If the pilot flame remains on, stand back at arms length. Rotate the selector knob to the "ON" position.

The control knob on the top of the thermostat control will have a "Pilot" position. Turning that round control knob to this position will allow you to lite the pilot while depressing the "Red" button.

The "Red" reset button must be held down in the depressed position for at least 60 seconds before releasing it. If the pilot remains ON, turn the control knob to the "ON" position and the main burner should fire up.

If the main burner does not light up, raise the thermostats temperature to maximum to allow the burner to light up and then lower it to your desired temperature.

NO PILOT GAS PROBLEMS:
The most common reason why pilot gas will not come out of the pilot orifice in the burner assembly has rust and corrosion.

Gas appliances left unused in vacation homes etc will buildup rust and corrosion in the pilot assembly. To correct this type of problem, first remove the pilot tube from the control.

The tube is the thin aluminum tube on the right hand side under the control. Once it is removed, turn the control to the pilot position and depress the red reset button for only 1 or 2 seconds.

Doing this is to insure that pilot gas is in fact coming out of the control and is turned on at the inlet supply pipe. If gas does come out, the pilot assembly is clogged up. If gas does not come out, the gas is off at the isolation valve on the gas supply pipe or the control is defective, etc.

The entire burner assembly will then have to be removed, the pilot assembly disassembled and cleaned out, reassembled and the entire burner assembly reinstalled back into the firebox.

Be sure to reinstall the burner assembly exactly as it current is. Burner assembly must be level and the leading edge at the front of the burner installed into the flange in the lower pan in the firebox.

Once all this is accomplished, soap test for minor gas leaks all the connection points you disassembled. The pilot must be on to leak test the pilot tubing connection and the burner must be on to test the burner tube.

If any of the repairs, methods, procedures is or appears to be more difficult than you care to attempt, some gas supply companies provide these services. Basic maintenance procedures are given in the manufacturers provided owners manual and on the labels attached to the appliance.

Additional Information:
Water Heater Forum:
http://forum.doityourself.com/forumd...hp?forumid=139

Tank-less Water Heater Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=147262

Anodes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pa...ter-anodes.html
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

How To Determine Water Leakage Exists In House Piping Exists:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=164130

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...6740#post556740

Water Heaters:
http://links.doityourself.com/links/water_heaters/

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...740#post556740

Sponsored Links:
Sears:
http://www.sears.com

http://www.houseneeds.com

Hot Water Circulaters:
http://www.rewci.com/

DIY Help Links:
http://links.doityourself.com/

DIY Help Links:
http://links.doityourself.com/

How To Determine Water Leakage In Piping Exists:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...threadid=164130

DIY'S Plumbing & Hardware Shopping Center And Much More:
http://doityourself.com/store/plumbing.htm

Tank less Water Heater Information & Links:
Water Heater Help and Information Pages On Do-It-Yourself.

DIY'S Water Heating Pages:
http://doityourself.com/waterheater/index.shtml

Water Heater Help Information:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showt...6740#post556740

Water Heaters:
http://links.doityourself.com/links/water_heaters/

DIY Help Link:
http://links.doityourself.com/

DIY'S Plumbing & Hardware Shopping Center And Much More:
http://doityourself.com/store/plumbing.htm

Tank & Tank less Water Heater Informational Links:

http://www.realgoods.com

http://www.controlledenergy.com

http://www.e-tankless.com

http://www.sets-tankless.com

http://www.tanklesswaterheater.com

http://www.eemaxinc.com

http://www.gotankless.com

http://www.tankless-water-heater.com/what_to_expect.htm

http://www.faucetdepot.com

http://www.irawoodinc.com

http://www.seisco.com

http://www.DiscountTankless.com

The above helpful information will be edited and or updated as needed. Check back often.

Additional information and links are provided in the google ads and the "Related Links" to the right. >>>

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-22-07 at 12:30 PM.
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