Water Heater Keeps Tripping Breakers
#1
08-24-04, 09:25 AM
Water Heater Keeps Tripping Breakers
Please Can anyone help me.
Our water heater keeps tripping the breaker. Two years ago we bought a bigger water heater. After installing it, it kept tripping breakers. We replaced the 20 amp breaker and didn't have any more trouble until recently. Do we need to replace the 20 amp breaker with a 30. We have 12 gauge wiring. Thanks
Nancy Kaehler
Our water heater keeps tripping the breaker. Two years ago we bought a bigger water heater. After installing it, it kept tripping breakers. We replaced the 20 amp breaker and didn't have any more trouble until recently. Do we need to replace the 20 amp breaker with a 30. We have 12 gauge wiring. Thanks
Nancy Kaehler
#2
08-24-04, 09:38 AM
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Nancy,
Your water heater is not properly wired to current code is the reason that it is tripping, and it is a major SAFETY HAZARD!
(That tripping 20 amp breaker is just doing its job...keeping you from burning down your house or electrocuting someone.)
Do NOT put a 30 amp breaker on 12 gauge wiring. A 20 amp is max on 12 gauge, and NEITHER are adequate for your water heater.
You need to install 10/2-with-ground wiring on a 30 amp double breaker for your 220v water heater (both insulated black and white wires are 110v hot). Have this re-wired immediately for your family's safety!
(And this isn't to mention that if your house burned to the ground because of your present code-violation wiring, your insurance company would probably not have to pay you a cent.)
Good Luck!
Mike
Your water heater is not properly wired to current code is the reason that it is tripping, and it is a major SAFETY HAZARD!
(That tripping 20 amp breaker is just doing its job...keeping you from burning down your house or electrocuting someone.)
Do NOT put a 30 amp breaker on 12 gauge wiring. A 20 amp is max on 12 gauge, and NEITHER are adequate for your water heater.
You need to install 10/2-with-ground wiring on a 30 amp double breaker for your 220v water heater (both insulated black and white wires are 110v hot). Have this re-wired immediately for your family's safety!
(And this isn't to mention that if your house burned to the ground because of your present code-violation wiring, your insurance company would probably not have to pay you a cent.)
Good Luck!
Mike
#3
08-24-04, 03:31 PM
Water Heater Keeps Tripping the Breaker
Hi Mike
Thank you for your advice. I don't understand how this water heater worked for a good one and a half years before giving us trouble with the breaker. The new water heater is 4500 watts and 220V. Guess we didn't know what we were doing when we installed it. Thanks again
Nancy
Thank you for your advice. I don't understand how this water heater worked for a good one and a half years before giving us trouble with the breaker. The new water heater is 4500 watts and 220V. Guess we didn't know what we were doing when we installed it. Thanks again
Nancy
#4
08-26-04, 09:48 PM
Circuit, Wire Gague and Amerage are all Fine
Mike is NOT correct.
Since VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS
For a 4500watt heater at 220-240 volts, all that is required no matter how you slice it is 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp circuit. The largest draw on such a configuration is a bit over 18 amps at 100% wattage. Even at code required 80% operational design, 20 amps for this heater with a 12 gauge wire is well below any problem areas for a heater of this size since the realistic load draw is only at about 15-16 amps.
Adding 10/2 wire and a 30 amp circuit will not solve the problem and will only add unnecessary cost.
If your breaker is tripping after 1-2 years you need to consider the basic things like that your elements are failing (they often develop pinhole leaks depending upon your water conditions) or there are some other types of electrical malfunctions perhaps in the thermostat, the wiring connections, the breaker itself, or other wiring connections on the circuit.
You also need to look to see if anything else is operating on the circuit. By code, there should be nothing else on a water heater circuit but perchance there is, whatever else os on there needs to be removed and separated.
Since VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS
For a 4500watt heater at 220-240 volts, all that is required no matter how you slice it is 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp circuit. The largest draw on such a configuration is a bit over 18 amps at 100% wattage. Even at code required 80% operational design, 20 amps for this heater with a 12 gauge wire is well below any problem areas for a heater of this size since the realistic load draw is only at about 15-16 amps.
Adding 10/2 wire and a 30 amp circuit will not solve the problem and will only add unnecessary cost.
If your breaker is tripping after 1-2 years you need to consider the basic things like that your elements are failing (they often develop pinhole leaks depending upon your water conditions) or there are some other types of electrical malfunctions perhaps in the thermostat, the wiring connections, the breaker itself, or other wiring connections on the circuit.
You also need to look to see if anything else is operating on the circuit. By code, there should be nothing else on a water heater circuit but perchance there is, whatever else os on there needs to be removed and separated.
Last edited by homebild; 08-26-04 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Kerry For President
#5
08-27-04, 06:25 AM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
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National Electrical Code requires a dedicated 30 amp breaker with 10 gauge wiring for a water heater, according to our County Building Inspection Department. And you cannot put a 30 amp breaker on 12g. (I'm not a pro plumber or electrician. I've just been doing both as a DIYer for about 50 years. Began as a mere child, of course. LOL)
I know that 20 amp/12g will work on most water heaters, but I still believe that it is ultimately unsafe. That's why the NEC code was changed way back whenever.
However, I'm sure that there are many older homes with 20 amp/12g on water heaters, just as there are with ungrounded wiring and even knob-and-tube wiring. I have only seen one home here where I've lived for 28 years with a 20amp/12g water heater wiring (it was working fine BTW). All others I've seen had 30 amp/10g.
I still stand by my recommendation to re-wire it to current code.
However, I have to agree with homebild that your problem may not just be in the 20 amp/12g wiring. Your problem could be in an element, tstat or connection. Most likely the lower element, which does most of the work.
To check an element, turn off the breaker, check the water heater with a voltage meter for safety, disconnect the element wires, and check the element for continuity with a an ohm meter. No continuity, replace the element (I always replace both).
Good Luck!
Mike
I know that 20 amp/12g will work on most water heaters, but I still believe that it is ultimately unsafe. That's why the NEC code was changed way back whenever.
However, I'm sure that there are many older homes with 20 amp/12g on water heaters, just as there are with ungrounded wiring and even knob-and-tube wiring. I have only seen one home here where I've lived for 28 years with a 20amp/12g water heater wiring (it was working fine BTW). All others I've seen had 30 amp/10g.
I still stand by my recommendation to re-wire it to current code.
However, I have to agree with homebild that your problem may not just be in the 20 amp/12g wiring. Your problem could be in an element, tstat or connection. Most likely the lower element, which does most of the work.
To check an element, turn off the breaker, check the water heater with a voltage meter for safety, disconnect the element wires, and check the element for continuity with a an ohm meter. No continuity, replace the element (I always replace both).
Good Luck!
Mike
