Need to Lower Hot Water Heater


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Old 07-06-10, 04:42 PM
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Need to Lower Hot Water Heater

I have an old 40 gallon, electric hot water heater that needs to be lowered from my second story window. It will not fit out of the house any other way. If I push it out the window, will it explode? It is empty.

Also, I'm trying to figure out a way to drop it straight down from the window otherwise it will hit a hydrangea.

Help! The plumber told me it wouldn't fit out the window which is not true. Another guy wants to charge me $50 to do the job. The plumber should have removed it and hauled it away for $25. I'm over it. I want to do it myself.
 
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Old 07-06-10, 05:00 PM
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Push it really hard...and maybe lean a piece of plywood over the hydrangea.

Oh...tie a rope to some part of it..put that out the window first..have someone pull as you push..

One wonders how it got in there in the first place though...
 
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Old 07-06-10, 05:45 PM
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How it got there.

The house caught on fire from a hot water heater years ago. The upstairs was completely rebuilt and all of the ceilings in the house were removed and there was no roof as well. That's how they got a new one up there. Also, they did not put a drain pipe on it. That's why I have this problem.
 
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Old 07-07-10, 01:32 PM
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You could get a Sawzall with a metal cutting blade and cut it into about three sections.
 
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Old 07-07-10, 03:58 PM
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Question Problem Solved

I called the City Waste Management to find out if it's okay to leave my HWH on the curb. He said, Yes. But he also gave me the name of someone who could come get it and haul it away. I paid the guy $30 bucks and it is gone!!!

QUESTION: Would a Sawzall cut through those triangular metal fence posts and the type used with hurricane fencing?
 
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Old 07-07-10, 04:13 PM
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Yep...with the right blades of course. Might be easier to pull them out if you don't already have a sawzall...
 
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Old 07-07-10, 04:21 PM
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The fence posts that I have left . . .

. . . are in concrete. Too deep to dig out. I've tried and almost speared myself.
 
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Old 07-07-10, 04:27 PM
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Well...not sure why those would be in 'crete...but a towtruck could prob pull them out in about 2 min per post, if they have access. At least thats what our tow truck guru says....

$100 for a good saw..$20 for blades...might be cheaper to call around...

Just a thought..then you won't have junk left in the ground to interfere with later projects..
 
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Old 07-07-10, 05:05 PM
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Just an O/T on SawzAll blades. I always used wrecking or rescue blades. Cuts wood great and if you run into galvanized pipe will go through it. They do make wood blades and metal blades but I found a good wreaking blade would do for about any thing but masonry and cast iron. For that you will need a carbide blades.
 
 

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