Need Advice: Uninstall/Install Gas Hot Water Heater


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Old 12-03-10, 04:45 PM
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Question Need Advice: Uninstall/Install Gas Hot Water Heater

Hello all ... this will be my first attempt ever to take out an old water heater to replace it with a new ... here are some pictures of the unit in question ... if I can get the picture to show ... it doesn't look good in the preview ... I follow instruction I saw in another post on posting pictures ... here goes ...
[IMG]Photobucket[/IMG]
 
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Old 12-03-10, 04:49 PM
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Angry Pictures .... NOT

:NO NO NO: Well as you can see I got it wrong ... if anyone can explain how to post pictures I would appreciate it ... You really have to see the picture so you will understand what I am up against ...
 
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Old 12-03-10, 05:22 PM
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I just clipped out the unimportant stuff and left the necessary stuff like this http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/.../hotwaterT.jpg and could see your photos. This one Pictures by spirittoo - Photobucket allows you to see them all and then choose slide show if you want Looks like you have a job on your hands...
 
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Old 12-03-10, 08:31 PM
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Allot of code issues. Do you really want to do this????

Mike NJ
 
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Old 12-04-10, 09:18 AM
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Thumbs up Oh Thanks :)

Originally Posted by Mike1555
I just clipped out the unimportant stuff and left the necessary stuff like this http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/.../hotwaterT.jpg and could see your photos. This one Pictures by spirittoo - Photobucket allows you to see them all and then choose slide show if you want Looks like you have a job on your hands...
Thanks for posting that ... so you think I have a big job? Can anyone explain what needs to be done? I believe I will have to have a torch to undo the adapter that leads to the hot water tank then unscrew the adapter from the tank? Correct me if I am wrong ...

Originally Posted by lawrosa
Allot of code issues. Do you really want to do this????

Mike NJ
What code issues? Do I really want to do it? ... It's either replace it or no hot water .... I don't understand you at all.
 
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Old 12-04-10, 10:19 AM
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You have unions on the piping, about six to eight inches above the top of the heater. These have a "ring" that unscrews to separate the piping. Once you turn off the water and drain the tank you disconnect at the unions, pull the vent piping apart (look for sheet-metal screws at the joints) and then turn off the gas and disconnect the flexible gas pipe from the valve. Then get the tank out of the way.

Bring the new tank next to the old and then transfer the copper stubs from the old tank to the new. Be sure that you use the stub from the cold water side of the old to the cold water side of the new. You will want to use a wire brush to remove the corrosion on the union that is on the hot water stub and use some Teflon paste on the male threads of the tank nipples. Push the new tank into position and re-connect the water piping. Do not use any Teflon on the union threads but a drop of light oil may make the union easier to tighten.

Using new vent pipe replace the vent. Using a new flexible gas pipe replace that as well. Do not use Teflon on the "flared" (cone shaped) fittings but you will probably need to remove the flare adapter from the old water heater gas valve and the pipe thread does require a little Teflon. Do NOT use Teflon tape! Do not slop the Teflon on but use only a small amount and try not to get it on the first couple of threads.

After the gas piping is done mix up some dishwashing liquid and water to make a soapy mixture. Turn off the gas control on the heater and turn on the gas supply valve. Using a small brush "paint" all the gas fittings to see if there are any leaks as will be evidenced by bubbles. Fix any leaks before proceeding. Turn on the water and vent the air from a nearby hot-water faucet. Be sure to run the water until all air is expelled. Light the heater pilot burner by following the instructions pasted on the heater.

Code requires the use of "type B" gas vent duct. If you are in an area prone to earthquakes then local code will require that the heater be securely strapped to the building structure and that flexible water piping be used. Some local codes will require a solid connection for the gas line instead of the flexible pipe. Most likely your local code also requires a permit to do the work.
 
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Old 12-04-10, 06:22 PM
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1 You need 4" flue. CODE After chiminey is opened the tiles might be bad and need to re line it. $$$$
2 Grey gas flex illegal. Need to replace. $$$$
3 unions are corroded. Should use dielectric or remove. $$$$
4 no shut off. $$$$
5 drip tee good but no gas line support. $$$$

Get it inspected if you do it yourself. It will help you.

You get what you pay for. Use a plumber and help the economy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mike NJ
 
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Old 12-04-10, 07:14 PM
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Thumbs up Thank you :)

Originally Posted by Furd
You have unions on the piping, about six to eight inches above the top of the heater. These have a "ring" that unscrews to separate the piping. Once you turn off the water and drain the tank you disconnect at the unions, pull the vent piping apart (look for sheet-metal screws at the joints) and then turn off the gas and disconnect the flexible gas pipe from the valve. Then get the tank out of the way.

Code requires the use of "type B" gas vent duct. If you are in an area prone to earthquakes then local code will require that the heater be securely strapped to the building structure and that flexible water piping be used. Some local codes will require a solid connection for the gas line instead of the flexible pipe. Most likely your local code also requires a permit to do the work.
Thank you for the advice ... a buddy of mine stopped by and showed me how to disconnect everything. I have that done and I got a couple of plugs so I could turn the water back on to the house. At least I have water again ... won't get the new heater until Tuesday.

As far as the code ... the house was weatherized through a government program and inspected last year so I know everything down there is up to code.

The new tank will have a shut off valve ...

...as far as the suggestion of the plumber ... I can't afford it:NO NO NO: ... it was a hardship just to get a replacement. I shall have to do the best I can:smoke:
 
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Old 12-04-10, 07:28 PM
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So replace with 3" flue not to code and wake up dead. The new HWH are more BTU and need bigger vent 4".

Tiles in chiminey might be bad... CO2.. Wake up dead....

Grey gas lines crack and gas leaks cause explosion. You need new gas line.

All HWH's need permit and inspection from township.... Period

Dont be silly.. Do you have children??? Are they worth saftey?????? My family is worth more then the $300 more I need to spend to do it right....

Careful....

Mike NJ
 
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Old 12-05-10, 12:24 AM
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Lawrosa, you have posted 105 times since joining six days ago for an average of 32+ posts per day. Several of those posts have had misleading or completely erroneous information although I give you credit for admitting your mistakes when they have been pointed out. In one post you stated that you have twenty five years of experience. Most of the regular posters here have no need to try to impress anyone but I assure you that the long-term posters have a great deal of experience within their particular fields.

To this topic specifically I will state that not everyplace on the planet (this IS an international forum) has the same codes so when you cite codes for your particular area you need to make sure that the original poster is aware that the codes in their area may be different. To my knowledge there is NO universal code requiring that any and all gas-fired water heater must utilize a four-inch vent. Water heaters up to 40,000 BTU/hr. input almost always have a 3-inch vent hood and three inch vent IS the standard for these water heaters. Believe it or not, not every place has a requirement that everything must be permitted and/or inspected. This includes electrical and fuel gas piping. I know, I was also surprised to learn this fact.

Dielectric unions are NOT a cure-all for corrosion and in many cases are a cause of corrosion. The unions in the picture posted are not corroded by action of dissimilar metals (which is what a dielectric union is to prevent) but the one union had a slight leak that caused the mineral buildup that you saw as corrosion.

Some local codes require hard-piped gas and water connections and some codes prohibit hard-piped connections. Not knowing where the original poster lives makes it impossible to give him specific information regarding his LOCAL codes.

Your participation is welcome but don't act like you know it all and don't write in a manner that tends to belittle others.
 
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Old 12-05-10, 09:19 AM
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I have been laid of a yr and looking to do something with my time. I dont know everything but I feel I am doing alright. I think I gave good advice here.

National fuel and gas code should state what size flue to use. That HWH is an old AO smith from the 80's and most likely 32,000 BTU. If replaced with a new AO smith most likely will be 40,000 BTU. Thats just code in NJ. None of my 40000 BTU hwh's will pass without 4" flue. If code here why not there.
Also that gas flex is aluminum and they crack/split. Cant use in NJ and why would you want that anywhere else in the country. If code here why not there.
Masonary liners fail and most just pipe to it anyway. The inspectors cant see inside so its up to the moral ethics of the installer. Code here and whynot there.
These are all Health and saftey concerns I am trying to point out thats all. If come over as belittling its because I am out of work because too many homeowners are trying to install things themself like HWH's but dont know about codes or saftey concerns, and probably dont care.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 12-06-10, 10:36 AM
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Unhappy You don't seem to understand

Originally Posted by lawrosa
So replace with 3" flue not to code and wake up dead. The new HWH are more BTU and need bigger vent 4".
As I stated before when the house was weatherized by the state everything that was not up to code was corrected. Flue has been like that for over 15 years ... I haven't woken up dead not once.

Originally Posted by lawrosa
Tiles in chiminey might be bad... CO2.. Wake up dead....
Tiles in the chimney are haven't given me any problems

Originally Posted by lawrosa
Grey gas lines crack and gas leaks cause explosion. You need new gas line.
The gas line is in good condition

Originally Posted by lawrosa
All HWH's need permit and inspection from township.... Period
Not in the state of Ohio or the township I live in.

Originally Posted by lawrosa
Dont be silly.. Do you have children??? Are they worth saftey?????? My family is worth more then the $300 more I need to spend to do it right....
I always have my family's safety in mind.


Originally Posted by lawrosa
Careful....

Mike NJ
I always work to be careful ...

Originally Posted by Furd
Lawrosa,

To this topic specifically I will state that not everyplace on the planet (this IS an international forum) has the same codes so when you cite codes for your particular area you need to make sure that the original poster is aware that the codes in their area may be different. To my knowledge there is NO universal code requiring that any and all gas-fired water heater must utilize a four-inch vent. Water heaters up to 40,000 BTU/hr. input almost always have a 3-inch vent hood and three inch vent IS the standard for these water heaters. Believe it or not, not every place has a requirement that everything must be permitted and/or inspected. This includes electrical and fuel gas piping. I know, I was also surprised to learn this fact.

Some local codes require hard-piped gas and water connections and some codes prohibit hard-piped connections. Not knowing where the original poster lives makes it impossible to give him specific information regarding his LOCAL codes.

Your participation is welcome but don't act like you know it all and don't write in a manner that tends to belittle others.
Thank you so much for your post ... it was very informative

Originally Posted by lawrosa
I have been laid of a yr and looking to do something with my time. I dont know everything but I feel I am doing alright. I think I gave good advice here.
I have been out of work for over two years ... you make the assumption that everyone with a broken WH has a job and money ... this is not the case with me.

Originally Posted by lawrosa
That HWH is an old AO smith from the 80's and most likely 32,000 BTU. If replaced with a new AO smith most likely will be 40,000 BTU. Thats just code in NJ. None of my 40000 BTU hwh's will pass without 4" flue. If code here why not there.
I guess you didn't see my picture ... this is a sears kenmore and it is 40000 BTU

Originally Posted by lawrosa
Also that gas flex is aluminum and they crack/split.
The gas line is not aluminum:NO NO NO:

Originally Posted by lawrosa
The inspectors cant see inside so its up to the moral ethics of the installer. Code here and whynot there.
No inspection is required

Originally Posted by lawrosa
These are all Health and saftey concerns I am trying to point out thats all. If come over as belittling its because I am out of work because too many homeowners are trying to install things themself like HWH's but dont know about codes or saftey concerns, and probably dont care.

Mike NJ
You forget a lot of homeowners are out of work ... and like myself are worried about losing our home ... just buying the HWH was a big burden ... so hiring someone else is simply out of the question. Safety is always a concern ... but when the funds are not there ... we all have to do what we can to get by and survive.
 
 

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