Replaced elements water heater now what?


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Old 03-24-11, 05:38 PM
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Replaced elements water heater now what?

About two weeks ago my electric water heater reset button started tripping. After a few days of this and 2 cold showers later I decided to investigate the problem online. I found that either the elements or the t-stat would cause the problem. I checked the volts and ohhms on both upper and lower element/t-stat.

A few days ago I replaced both elements and the problem persists. After I replaced them both I tested the volts and ohhms upper and lower. The upper t-stat/element were fine. 240 volts/12.5 ohhms. I didnt get a reading on the lower t-stat and the element read 12.5 ohhms. So I replaced the lower t-stat.

Now the water heater isnt working at all. I tripple checked all my connections and they appear to be fine.

What should I check next?

Thanks

oops wrong forum
 
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Old 03-24-11, 06:06 PM
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The upper element / Aquastat combination will heat the upper portion of the tank.
Once that tank is up to temp, as set by the aquastat, it will send 240 VAC down to the lower element / aquastat combination. From there, the lower element will heat the balance of the tank.
This is done to shorten the time somewhat of when you will get some hot water at the taps.

If the upper stat never shuts off then the lower heater will never get power. If the upper element is open, then the stat will never allow the lower element to heat.
If either stat has welded contacts, the elements will continue until the high limit stat kicks in and shut it all down prior to a mess.
Does that help explain the why and whats.
As for why you have no hot water... Check the resistance of the elements (power off, no wires connected)
If you have good resistance, the wire it back up, put some power to it and check voltage at the top element.
If you do not have power there, check the reset button. Sometimes they can only take so many trips prior to failing.
A bad high limit will have a voltage across it, showing that it is one.

If you have power at the upper element, let it warm up enough to be able to switch it to power the lower set.
Check for power on the lower element and if no power check the reset there (if equipped).
 
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Old 03-24-11, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I tested the upper element and t-stat. Volt is fine.
 
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Old 03-24-11, 07:26 PM
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Turn off power to the HWH

Remove one lead from each element.

Set your meter for continuity. (Beep sound when leads are touched or meter scale goes to zero if set for ohms)

Touch both element contacts.

You should have continuity. If not the element (s) are bad.

Let us know then we will test the t stats.

Mike NJ
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 03-24-11 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 03-24-11, 07:47 PM
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Mike dont have that setting on my meter.
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:01 PM
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They all have them. Digital meter? Should have a sound icon.

Like this one click to the left.



A anolog meter set to ohms X1 if more then one ohm setting. The meter should be at infinity with the leads NOT touching. When you touch the leads together you should get zero.

Even anologs have a buzzer.




Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:10 PM
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I have an older GB instrument meter. No sound setting. 2000k 200k 20k 2000 200 settings
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:15 PM
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2000.... Should pin the meter, then when you touch the leads goes to 0.

Try 200

Is the battery good?

Mike Nj
 

Last edited by lawrosa; 03-24-11 at 08:36 PM.
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Old 03-24-11, 08:20 PM
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lower element read 13 upper read 1700
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:25 PM
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You removed one wire from each lead of the elements, and power is off?

When you set the meter to 2000 and not touching anything to the leads whats it say?

When you touch the two meter leads together what does it say.



Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:29 PM
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Yes removed one wire from each lead while power was off.

1
1
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:35 PM
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It should be set for 1000 ohms and the meter should read infinity and when you touch them together it should read 0.

Try 200, but is the battery good?


Maybe we will try somthing else. I just want to rule out the elements.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:36 PM
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Ohms. Both elements are brand new. Not sure if you saw that or not.
 
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Old 03-24-11, 08:56 PM
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I saw that but if you turned on the heater and did not bleed to air out before you turned on the electric you could have fried them.

The battery is good in the meter?

This is how the meter should work.

When you set the meter to ohms the needle should go to infinity. All the way to the right. Without touching the leads together.

When you touch them together (the leads) the meter should go to zero.

When you test your elements you should get a zero. That means the elemnet circuit is complete and the elemnet is good. Just like touching the wires together.



Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-24-11, 09:00 PM
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Sometimes meters have an audible continuity setting that looks like a diode. With this setting, when the test leads are touched together, the meter will show the reading and an audible alarm will sound.

I know you said you dont have one, but I thought they all did. Mine is 30 yrs old and has it.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-25-11, 06:25 AM
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Mike when I woke up this morn I had warm water for about 1 min then went back to cold. Is it possible the new lower element I bought is bad?

BTW, also replaced the upper stat last night. Still no hot water...
 
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Old 03-25-11, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa
Sometimes meters have an audible continuity setting that looks like a diode. With this setting, when the test leads are touched together, the meter will show the reading and an audible alarm will sound.

I know you said you dont have one, but I thought they all did. Mine is 30 yrs old and has it.

Mike NJ
Mike I found the setting that looks like a diode. However I hear nothing. When the test leads are tog it reads 1.

When I touch the lower element with power off and one wire disconnected the lower element pegs at 13, the upper slower element reading goes from 200's to 1700's.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 06:53 AM
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Did ya put a fresh battery in the meter?

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-25-11, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa
Did ya put a fresh battery in the meter?

Mike NJ
Yes of course has a fresh battery.

Althought the meter had a bad fuse gonna replace it and see what happens.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 07:45 AM
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How to test a HWH

Read this

I would say your lower element is bad.

Electric water heater repair: how to test the heating elements or electrodes

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-25-11, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa
How to test a HWH

Read this

I would say your lower element is bad.

Electric water heater repair: how to test the heating elements or electrodes

Mike NJ
Thats what i've been thinking too, I'll put an old element back in and see what happens. I tested the elements per instructions and they both come up 12.5
 
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Old 03-25-11, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by lawrosa
How to test a HWH

Read this

I would say your lower element is bad.

Electric water heater repair: how to test the heating elements or electrodes

Mike NJ
Correcet me if i'm wrong but wouldnt that mean my upper element was bad? I'll test both again but I think i'm correct on that thinking? If the upper element was bad it would never heat to proper temp never allowing power to the lower element.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 08:34 AM
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If you can get your meter to work with continuity it would be easier.

I dont have a meter with a dial., thats why I asked about the readings you get when testing ohms.

The meter should go to infinity with out touching anything.

The meter should go to 0 when you touch the leads together.

The link I sent you says the opposite.

So if you get 1 and 1 on your meter and read 1700 upper, bad. 13 lower good. Did you turn on the tank without blleding the air out?

You can test amp draw with the power on at each element. Lower one t stat and raise the other to be tested to be sure it comes on.

I think it stats in that link what the amp draw should be. You should here a pop sound when the t stats come on and of as you turn the temps up or down accordingly.





Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-25-11, 09:05 AM
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Apperently I didnt bleed it properly. When I exchanged the elemenet they pointed it out to me. I reinstalled the new one and bleed it out and returned power to the tank. Should find out soon.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 09:12 AM
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I believe that you had half a tank of air when you powered the heater back up. As Mike stated earlier, if you didn't purge the air from the system before powering up, it would take about 30 seconds to fry a dry element.

The UPPER ELEMENT is BAD if it's reading 1700 ohms and fluctuating...

The reason it won't switch the lower element on is because the top of the tank is cold... that upper thermostat is calling for heat and if it doesn't satisfy it will never power the lower element.

Double check the resistance readings and most likely replace the upper element with a known good one.

BEFORE YOU TURN THE POWER ON! Run the hot water taps until NO AIR comes out! Only then should you turn the power on.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 09:14 AM
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Ooops, my reply crossed in the mail...

Should be OK now... as long as the air is out, all will be well.

I also would have suggested that as long as you had the tank drained that you check the ANODE ROD. Replacing a used up anode rod can add years to the life of a water heater.
 
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Old 03-25-11, 09:18 AM
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By the way, I'm moving this thread to the "Water Heaters" forum...
 
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Old 03-25-11, 09:22 AM
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Appears as though the orig problem was a bad element and my own stupidity caused more. Thanks guys I have hot water now!
 
 

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