Strange problem.


  #1  
Old 07-23-12, 11:31 PM
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Question Strange problem.

State W/H: PRV40NRT52CH Nat. Gas reg: 37C73U 624

Owner was able to light pilot and allow water to come to temp, for one cycle and pilot would go out when main burner turned off.

Got to house and lit pilot. Turned t-stat to allow main burner to come on. Lowered temp to cause main to go off, pilot stays on. Did this several times with good results.

Let heater run on it's own, to satisfiy water temp. Main burner shuts off and pilot goes out also!! Unable to relite pilot. Tried several times, pilot will not stay lit.

Removed burner assembly, cleaned and checked connections. All looked good. Reinstalled and still not able to lite pilot.

Owner insisted to let hot water run in house and see what would happen. So allowed water to run, letting cold water enter the W/H. Attempted to lite pilot and it lit!!! Turned t-stat up and down several times, each time the pilot would stay lit. Allowed W/H to reach temp; main burner shuts off and so does the pilot.

Replaced thermocoupler, just cause. Still have the same problem.

Anyone ran across this before? Which type of regulator should I use to replace this one, as I can't find this same regulator?

Thanks in advance
 
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Old 07-24-12, 07:15 AM
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Replaced thermocoupler, just cause. Still have the same problem.
If this is a sealed burner ( Have viewing window) you cannot replace the t couple. The T couple has a thermal sensor built into it. If you replaced with a non OEM t couple then you bypassed a saftey device.


The t couple with this sensor shuts down the gas and pilot if over temperatures in the combustion chambers are reached. This is due to the fact that the air intake disk gets clogged with lint.

If this is an open burner design I would lean towrds the gas valve itself.

Post the series # and s/n and I can look up the unit for you to find the data sheets.

 
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Old 07-24-12, 10:12 AM
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It is an open burner design. Manufacturer is White. Model number is: PRV40NRT52CH. It has a Natural Gas regulator model number: 37C73U 624. Serial number: H87101017.

I have been trying to figure out why the temperture of the water seems to regulate rather the pilot light will remain lit or not. This is what doesn't make sense to me. I think the only thing to do is replace the regulator, but would like to understand why.

Tried to look up the regulator number to find replacement, but it didn't come up for me. Maybe you have the right book and can tell me which one would work well. I may have to order it, if it's not a common off the self model, from HD or local hardware/appliance store.
 
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Old 07-24-12, 10:28 AM
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Here is the service handbook. It lists several models.


Page 13 here. You can do a Milli-volt drop out test. I would suspect the gas valve and its internally faulty. Could be the probe also in that the usit will cut off when a high water temp is reached. This you would know if the water heater is set to say 120f and the heater heats the water to say 180f or is extremely hot.

http://www.statewaterheaters.com/lit...320989-000.pdf
 
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Old 07-24-12, 10:49 AM
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[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="width: 125"]I checked your
warranty and put in a fictitious install date. Here is your info below. Those dates change with a different install date. I think that heater was made Aug 2008.








Brand
[/TD]
[TD]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Heater[/TD]
[TD] Serial: [H87101017]
Model: [PRV 40][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Type[/TD]
[TD] Residential[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Install Date[/TD]
[TD] 1/1/2007[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Manufacture Date[/TD]
[TD] 8/1/1987[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[h=3]Warranty Details[/h] Installation date verification is required to process a claim on this heater.

Installation date verification is required to process a claim on this heater.


[TABLE]
[TR]
[TH] Type[/TH]
[TH] Length[/TH]
[TH] Extended Warranty[/TH]
[TH] Expiration[/TH]
[TH] Status[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Tank[/TD]
[TD]5 yr[/TD]
[TD]No.[/TD]
[TD]1/1/2012[/TD]
[TD]Pending Documentation[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Parts[/TD]
[TD]1.00 yr[/TD]
[TD]N/A[/TD]
[TD]1/1/2008[/TD]
[TD]Pending Documentation[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
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Old 07-24-12, 08:02 PM
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Okay, I believe the water heater was manufactured in Aug of 1987, looks to be about that old also however, it is in good shape. No leaks and still works well, other then the identified problem.

The gas valve has a part number (37C73U-624)I haven't been able to cross reference to a good replacement, not sure what the 624 means. I can find several with the 37C73U part, but the last three numbers don't match up. So I went to State industries site and think this part number will work, part number: 9000246
"RELIANCE" NATURAL GAS WATER HEATER CONTROL *Automatic *Four settings: low, warm, energy saving and hot *Safety sensing cuts off power at 210 Deg. F *Complete instruction *For energy efficient foam insulated and standard fiber glass insulated models *55,000 BTU *1-1/4" shank length *Boxed *Discovery SUP
The current valve looks like this:
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Lowe's also has one: Part number: 69100798 but the reviews on it don't look to good.

Just want to ensure I get the right one, cheaper then a new water heater. I believe this water heater has many more years left in it. Really surprised at the condition it is in for it's age!!
 
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Old 07-24-12, 08:06 PM
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Data Plate, just in case you were wondering?!?!?
 
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Old 07-24-12, 08:18 PM
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Ha ha....1987...LOL. I was looking at the S/N and was only referring to the 8 which denotes the year in the new # system.

I should have known. No wonder I could not find data on it. Oh man you got me!!!!

I think I have two of those gas valves in my shed. I am pretty sure the boxes have the part # on them. I will look tomorrow.

25 years is a good run.
 
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Old 07-24-12, 08:31 PM
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25 and counting!!!! LOL

Thanks for looking. I'm thinking that just about any box type thermostat will work, as long as it's for an open burner system.
 
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Old 07-24-12, 08:39 PM
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Needs to be proper shank length and proper BTU...etc...


I dug some of my old stuff up. Since AO smith makes state I cross referenced it there. I came up with this part # cross referencing the # on your White Rodgers gas valve.

I am almost 100% sure this is the croos reference #.

You seem smart enough that possibly you can now dig deeper with this info.

9000249005 - AO Smith 9000249005 - Gas Thermostat, Natural Gas - 2 5/8" Shank (Boxed)
 
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Old 07-24-12, 09:05 PM
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Just cross referenced your # 9000246 and got this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-State.../dp/B000DZHCPS


Then shows this as the new #

9000246005 - AO Smith 9000246005 - Gas Thermostat, Natural Gas - Through 55,000 BTU's (Boxed)

I'm thinking that just about any box type thermostat will work, as long as it's for an open burner system.


I think so. Just make sure the shank is long enough or the valve will hit the heater and you will not be able to turn in far enough. Also make sure the W.C is the same as is the BTU range. You are at 35,500 BTU. So the through 55K btu is good.


Am I confusing you? I think I am confusing myself......
 
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Old 07-24-12, 10:27 PM
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LOL confusing me? No Way!!! Funny as it may be, I understood everything you had to say. Not sure if that is good or bad?!?!?

I will be going to the local hardware store to get the 9000246005 model, they have it for about $95.00. Will go by in the evening and install the thing, I think it will be fine. I will let you know how it all works out.

Thanks
 
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Old 07-25-12, 06:42 AM
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they have it for about $95.00. Will go by in the evening and install the thing, I think it will be fine. I will let you know how it all works out.
Probably more cost effective to replace the heater. A 40 gal AO smith can be had for around $350 from your local Ferguson supply.


It will bring it up to code and probably be more efficient.


some code updates.


4" flue
Bonding
Drip tee at gas valve


 
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Old 07-25-12, 11:10 AM
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some code updates...

Drip tee at gas valve
I installed a drip tee when I installed a new WH in 1982, and I understood it to be required then. Maybe a local requirement - this was in Nashville?
 
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Old 07-25-12, 09:21 PM
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Well, as usual with plumbing issues, things didn't go according to plan!

Got the part from ACE A. O. Smith 9000246 and proceeded over to the house. Did all the stuff needed to do to pull old control valve.

Pulled the valve and realized it has the long shank and the part I have has the short shank!!!

So back to the drawing board. Come back home and look things up. Seems I needed to get part number A. O. Smith 9000249. However, I have yet to find anywhere in this area I can get this thing.

Does this part number cross over to any other manufacturers, besides A. O. Smith?

Need to get this done tomorrow as I now have the control assembly out of the water heater, so owner is without hot water until I get it fixed.
 
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Old 07-25-12, 09:49 PM
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If you dont want to order it, then put your zip code here.

Locations Finder

Find and call the one local to you that has plumbing sales. They sell to the public. Tell them what you need.
 
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Old 07-28-12, 11:44 PM
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Thanks, Lawrosa. I didn't look at this post until after the fact. I found a plumbing supply that had what I needed, it was about forty miles away. I did put in my zip, just to see what would come up and one of their stores must have been just down the street.

Anyhow, got the part and put it in, water heater now working like a champ again!! Owner is happy, I am happy. Going to take old control apart just to see if I can figure out what was wrong with it. The symptoms just didn't add up. I just replaced everything that "could have" cause the problem.
 
 

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