tired of taking freezing showers!! please help me ASAP

Old 01-09-13, 04:26 PM
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tired of taking freezing showers!! please help me ASAP

Hey everyone.
I am in desperate need of help!!!

I have a brand new ELECTRIC water heater that I installed last night. It is a Kenmore Power Miser 6, 240v, 3800w

I energized the water heater and 8 hours later, I still have no hot water. not even luke warm. were talking cold!

I used a multimeter to test all connections on the thermostat and heating element on the upper element and everything checks out at 240v.

I did the same for the bottom unit, and I get zero's. There is only two wires on the lower unit which is correct when I look at the wiring diagram. When I test the lower unit terminals one at a time with one probe, and the other to ground....they all check out with 120v. So it seems to me, it's getting power.

I don't know what else to check or do. Can anyone help me?

Last edited by crankbait09; 01-09-13 at 04:42 PM.
Old 01-09-13, 06:33 PM
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Does your upper thermostat look like the one in the pic ?
Did you try pushing in the red reset button.

A little troubleshooting......did you check for 240 volts on top element ?
Not at thermostat......right at the element.

If you have 240 vac on the top element then the top element is bad.

If the top element is bad the bottom one will never come on. When the water in the top of the water heater is hot.... the top thermostat is designed to turn off the top heating element and transfer 240 v to the lower thermostat and lower element.

If it turns out the top element is bad......did you wait for the tank to completely fill up with water before turning the power back on ? If you didn't wait for the tank to fill....the element burned up and must be replaced.

Be careful when testing.....it's very easy to hit ground.
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Old 01-10-13, 05:57 AM
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In addition to what PJmax said. Turning the power on to the heater before it is completely filled with water can kill it surprisingly quickly. It generally only kills the top element though so it's an easy fix if that's the cause.

Disconnect power to the water heater by pulling it's service disconnect or switching off the breaker at the electrical panel (both is more saferer).

Disconnect the wires going to the heating element. With a volt meter set to test continuity (the needle jumps when you touch your test probes together) put one probe on each of the heater's terminals. The needle should move indicating that the heater core is still intact. If it does not move the element is burned out and needs to be replaced.

Next touch one test probe to one of the heater's terminals and the other to the metal nut or heater housing. Do the same with the other heater terminal. If the needle moves when on either terminal it indicates that the heater core is touching the heater's housing and shorting out and the element is bad and needs to be replaced.

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