New Water Heater install questions


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Old 01-10-13, 12:28 PM
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New Water Heater install questions

pretty easy job, but a couple questions:

I am upgrading from a 50 gal to a 75 gal.

The 75 gal unit has 1" output nipples. Can I reduce these immediately to 3/4" which is the size of my household plumbing? Is this pretty standard just to give flexibility on plumbing pipe sizes?

The manual of my 75 gal unit states the minimum vent size is 4", however the included vent hood that sits on top of the water heater and the vent pipe physically attachs to is 3". I assume I use my standard 3" vent that attaches directly and correctly to this included vent hood. (the exhaust hole in the water heater itself is 4", but nothing is attached directly to that)

thx
Jim
 
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Old 01-10-13, 01:26 PM
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The 75 gal unit has 1" output nipples. Can I reduce these immediately to 3/4" which is the size of my household plumbing?

Yes you can. I use 1 x 3/4 female adapters.

Is this pretty standard just to give flexibility on plumbing pipe sizes?
Larger units are usually used for multiple fixtures at the same time. 1" gets you more volume.

I assume I use my standard 3" vent that attaches directly and correctly to this included vent hood.


You must change your current 3" flue to all 4" Change the Y if needed, all flue pipe ect.... Its code.


Additionally you are adding 25k btu to your current gas line. Do you know if whats there can support this heater? If not you can starve for gas and have draft and CO issues....You may need to increase the line, at the arm or possibly the main is the calculations dont jive......



 
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Old 01-11-13, 09:15 AM
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Thanks Mike

I was only going by the size of the included vent hood and it was smaller than the output of the tank...however, now that I measure it, it is a 4" pipe. No problem, I will upgrade. Just need to find the Y. Hopefully that is easy to find...The main vent pipe is 6"..

for the gas pipe, the incoming line that services my furnace and water heater is 1" and the arms going to both furnace and water heater are 3/4" pipes.

The 1" pipe is about 12 feet after branching off the main pipe which is larger...I didnt measure but lets assume 1.25". The 3/4" arms are only 2ft long each. Looking at online capacity charts, this tells me I have no issue.

Another question, I was considering using Sharkbite connectors for ease of use. I will be replacing my pressure tank and currently it is mounted vertically on 3/4" copper sweated joints. No support. On about a 6" length of pipe off the main cold line. Will a Sharkbite T connector be able to support this or should I either use a standard sweated T or support the tank in some way...which would be a pain as the nearest wall is concrete and it is 4' from the ceiling joists...
 
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Old 01-11-13, 09:48 AM
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another question, I was considering using Sharkbite connectors for ease of use.
I dont like sharkbites myself. And since they have plastic internal parts they will need to be installed 18" min above the water heater. So you will need to solder 18" risers off the heater. So then whats the point, just solder it all....

Additionally the exp tank should hang vertical not horizontal. The exp tank pressure must be adjusted to match that of the homes pressure.

Most tanks are only pre charged to 40 psi. So if your main psi is 70 for example you will need to adjust the psi in the tank to 70 psi.

If psi is unknow get a psi gauge that attaches to your hose bib. These can be found at the home stores.

No way would I use a sharkbite for the exp tank.....



 
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Old 01-11-13, 09:59 AM
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Ok. I will just solder it.

FYI. they sell 12" water heater supply braided lines with Sharkbite ends....

I meant the expansion tank was vertical...straight up from the elbow, 6" of pipe away from the main vertical cold water supply line.

I am installing a new PRV (looks like you are helping me in that thread also) and will set my house pressure and the expansion tank to the same.

thx
 
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Old 01-11-13, 11:18 AM
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FYI. they sell 12" water heater supply braided lines with Sharkbite ends....
These are rubber also and fall under the 18" rule.......

 
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Old 01-11-13, 11:53 AM
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I plan on using soldered joints.

My only hold up now is finding the appropriate 4" vent components, especially the "T"
 
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Old 01-11-13, 01:43 PM
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My only hold up now is finding the appropriate 4" vent components, especially the "T"

Needs to be a Y not a T.

Put in your zip and find your local Fergusons. They will have what you need.

Locations Finder


 
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Old 01-14-13, 09:51 AM
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"Yes you can. I use 1 x 3/4 female adapters."

Are these female on both ends and are they copper or brass? I was hoping to find a female 1" x male 3/4" threaded.
 
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Old 01-14-13, 10:14 AM
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1" x 3/4"

The 1" threads to the nipples that should already be on the heater. Then sweat copper to the other side.


 
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Old 01-14-13, 10:20 AM
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yes, however, I am adding one of those recirculating pumps that has a 3/4 female threaded input so you can typically just screw it onto the water heater hot output nipple...but since mine is 1", I need to move it to 3/4" male thread.

Which appears is more than one fitting.

I also plan on using flexible supply connectors for final connections so that I dont have to cut pipe for future changes/issues as I do now.
 

Last edited by smithsonga; 01-14-13 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 01-14-13, 11:08 AM
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Yes, then after the adapter I show install a short piece of pipe, then a 3/4 male adapter....
 
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Old 01-29-13, 09:09 AM
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I wanted to keep this thread going.

I am finally getting around to installing this water heater. I had one more question. This Kenmore model has 1" NPT threads as I mentioned, and as I removed the plastic covers on these input/outputs, I was surprised to find plastic inserts inside. The Cold side even has an o-ring!?

See attached picture. This blue plastic seems cheap...I cannot imagine it can handle the heat? but they dont readily pull out...so maybe they are just flow tubes and stay? e.g. the cold could be the 'roto tube' that swirls in the tank and the hot is just the dip tube? Just unexpected I guess.

And what about the oring? No mention of it in the install instructions
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Old 01-29-13, 10:24 AM
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Cold has the dip tube. Hot most likely has the anode rod.

They are dielectric. Its normal to be plastic sleeved. Been that way for many many years.
 
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Old 06-02-13, 11:13 PM
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Does UPC limit rubber in water pipe connected to water heaters?

Mike, please help. On 01-11-13, 01:18 PM as part of this thread you posted:

These are rubber also and fall under the 18" rule.......

I have been trying to find a rule in the UPC that says that, and I cannot. Could you please help?

I have found:
604.11.2 Water Heater Connections. PEX
tubing shall not be installed within the first eighteen
(18) inches (457 mm) of piping connected to
a water heater.

and also:

604.13.2 Water Heater Connections. PEX-ALPEX
or PE-AL-PE tubing shall not be installed
within the first eighteen (18) inches (457 mm) of
piping connected to a water heater.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 06-07-13, 03:49 PM
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Mike, please help. On 01-11-13, 01:18 PM as part of this thread you posted:

These are rubber also and fall under the 18" rule.......

I have been trying to find a rule in the UPC that says that, and I cannot. Could you please help with the reference in the Uniform Plumbing Code the "18 inch rule" that prohibits rubber washers?
 
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Old 06-07-13, 04:02 PM
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What supplys are you getting???

Why not just get the copper ones??





These braided over rubber fall into the distance I believe of 18"

 
 

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