New electric heater and elericity bill

Old 02-26-14, 10:02 PM
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New electric heater and elericity bill

I replaced my old electric heater (build 1996 and it has a very good 16 years long run) about 16 months ago.

I thought in 16 years there are many improvements in technology and my bill will be lower. As a matter of fact my bill has increased a lot like more than 30%. I have even changed bulb to new CFL but bill is still > 30% higher.

Only thing changed is new electric heater. I spent like $600 (heater + installation). I am now thinking about replacing it with water less heater.

Other thing changed is, in my old heat my heating gauge (both upper and lower) is almost to the lowest and with new heater it has to be in the middle to get similar kind of water heating. It was first time I have noticed during a long shower that I ran out of hot water. It was never the case with old heater. My new water heater is whirlpool brand and old one I forgot the brand name.

Any suggestions or any one has experienced similar situation.

Any recommendations regarding brand and model for tank less electric water heater. My current water heart is 50 gallons capacity.
Old 02-26-14, 10:43 PM
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Likely you have some other issue. Have you had a rate change in your electric? Are more people in the home? Have you changed your activities and and using more electric for a dryer or dishwasher?

No way a replacement of the WH would cause that jump. Was it installed correctly by a Pro? If you are running out of hot water...likely you have a bad element or thermostat.
Old 02-27-14, 07:35 AM
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I'd check the elements.
All it would have taken to have a melt down is someone not opening up a faucet as the tank was being filled to make sure the tank was completely full of water.
Also making sure it's getting 220 volt, and not 110.
Own a meter and know how to use it?
Old 02-27-14, 08:32 AM
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I agree with Gunguy that something else must be going on. Pretty much all the heat from the elements is going into the water and if anything your new heater is probably insulated better and is more efficient than the old.

Are you on city water? If so, have you noticed an increase in your water bill? It is possible you have a leak in a hot water line. This would waste hot water driving up your bill and waste hot water leaving you less for long hot showers.

Generally a burned out element or feeding the heater 120 volts (US current is 240 and 120 not 220/110) will not increase your electric consumption. If anything it probably would reduce it and you would probably be running out of hot water when taking showers.

When you say "heating gauge" are you referring to the thermostats on your water heater? If so there has been a change to lower temperatures for safety. New heaters come from the factory set to a pretty low temperature so children don't get scalded. I think this has led manufacturers to shift the temp range of their thermostats downward. So, the lowest setting on your old heater may have provided 120f water while a new heater's lowest setting may only be 90f requiring you to turn it up higher to get to the temp you want. It doesn't mean it's less efficient. They've just shifted it's operating range.

By "water less heater" do you mean a tankless water heater? Personally I don't like tankless systems from a maintenance standpoint. They can save you energy but you must offset the savings against the higher cost of a tankless heater and installation especially since you just got a new heater 16 months ago.
Old 02-27-14, 09:30 AM
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Just had another member here with a similar problem that after several weeks of troubleshooting found it wasn't the WH but a leak in the hot water piping.
Old 02-27-14, 10:37 AM
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That would be me & yes the HW leak prevented the tstats from shutting the elements off .

Look for anything that would prevent the tstats from turning off .

Also , as has been stated , if an element is burned up , you may have a constant amount of electricity , at the un-switched terminal of the element / elements " going to earth ground " . To the metal tank . This would be 24/7 .

A Volt Ohm Amp meter would be needed to check that . Or physically remove one or both of the elements ( after draining the tank ) .

Best of luck tracing down the problem . :-)

God bless

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