Question about T/P relief valve tightness

Old 10-22-14, 10:29 AM
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Question about T/P relief valve tightness

Had an electric water heater that was installed around 2006. T/P relief valve had never been tested before. Someone flipped the switch to let it drain instead of using the actual drain on the bottom. (It was being moved). It was leaking ever since. I looked around online and saw that if it was an older valve that had never been tested it would probably leak if messed with. I got a matching relief valve and installed it. It seemed to already have some white goop on the threads. I hand tightened it. Then I used a pair of channel lock pliers about 11 inches from center of valve to end of handle and tightened about 3/4 more of a turn to have the outlet pointing down. Using the pliers I could tighten 1/4 more of a turn but no more (but then the outlet was pointing in the wrong direction). So I turned it back. The water heater is running now and it isn't leaking for now.

I have a 24" pipe wrench which I used to remove the old leaky one. I could probably use that to tighten another complete revolution but the installation instructions said "NOT TO OVERTIGHTEN" but gave no specifications on what was under, correct, or over tight. So I'm here to ask
1) If it's tight enough or if I need to do some more turns
2) If I need to tighten more, how many more turns I should do.
3) Was the goop on it enough thread sealant or should I take it back out and add some teflon tape, if so, how many turns of that should I use?

I'm a small build guy but do some car work. I know I can barely get to around 100 ft/lbs using an 18" torque wrench.

Thank you all very very much.
Old 10-22-14, 05:53 PM
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It needed to be taped or Teflon pipe doped.
If it's not leaking and it's pointing in the right direction, just leave it.
Old 10-22-14, 05:58 PM
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The "white goop" was pipe dope. As joe said, no leaks - you are good to go.

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