Water Heater Venting


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Old 02-11-15, 08:41 AM
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Water Heater Venting

I post this on the plumbing by accident but hopefully some one here can help me.

I mad a closet for my water heater in the garage since we will be using the garage for other stuff. We have a gas water heater, I believe 40,000 BTU. Right now what I have is the closet around the water heater framed, it turned out to be 36 inches deep by 32 inches wide, 8 feet tall. I'm putting a 28" door on it and sealing it with gaskets. Just waiting to install the drywall, but before I do that I need to figure this combustion air venting issue.

I know your suppose to have air coming 12 inches from the floor and 12 inches from the ceiling if i plan to seal the closet door. My questions is can i get the combustion air for the bottom and for the top of the closet from my attic by using two 5" or 6" round vent pipes. Attached is 2 pictures of what I mean. I saw this pictures online but not sure if they are consider code.

Thanks

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Old 02-11-15, 01:04 PM
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No way should you be using any form of gaskets on the door.
Doing what you have done makes it near impossible to change the anode, dip tube, relief valve.
Why not just use a louvered door for venting?
Where's the drip pan and drain?
What's your logic for doing it this way?
 
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Old 02-11-15, 02:00 PM
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The garage is now a living room. You suppose to enclose the water heater in a closet and weather strip the door so no hazardous fumes get into the room, but by doing that you still have to get air into the closet for combustion, so your suppose to have 2 entries of outside air into the close, one 12 inches from the bottom and one 12 inches from the top. As far as for repairs I'm not sure about that but I'm guessing you would have to drain it take it out and work on it and then re install it. My water heater sits on a 16 Inch stand and has a drain pan, that picture was just an example.
 
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Old 02-11-15, 06:20 PM
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What happens when you need to replace this water heater? You know, in a couple months all new water heaters will be wider and taller due to the additional insulation required by the new energy efficiency requirements; not to mention having pilotless electronic ignition. Your venting scares me too. You can't just run the vent piping through a combustible wall. I think your closet needs to be bigger.
 
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Old 02-11-15, 11:09 PM
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I'm not sure if you guys read my post but the closet is 3 feet by 32" and the door is 28" wide. Most enclosures and doors designated for water heaters are a lot smaller the that, Home Depot sells doors with louvers specifically for water heaters that are 24" wide. My water heater is about 20 inches wide, if I were to ever upgrade to like a newer 50 gallon, that's still only like 23" wide. I'm not a plumber but I'm sure the close meets all size requirements. What I'm unsure of is on how to get combustion air into the closet and was hoping someone with experience would know. Thanks
 
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Old 02-12-15, 08:49 AM
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I'm not sure if you guys read my post but the closet is 3 feet by 32" and the door is 28" wide. Most enclosures and doors designated for water heaters are a lot smaller the that, Home Depot sells doors with louvers specifically for water heaters that are 24" wide. My water heater is about 20 inches wide, if I were to ever upgrade to like a newer 50 gallon, that's still only like 23" wide. I'm not a plumber but I'm sure the close meets all size requirements.
Sure, I read it, but did you read mine. All the doors and sizes you mention are fine for today's requirements, but the requirements all change on April 16, 2015 and todays requirements you are building to will be gone forever. You can ask at Home Depot, but I doubt they are aware yet because there is no mention of it on their website, I have already looked. It's anyone's guess what the new dimensions will be on 40 or 50 gallon tanks under the new requirements so you better make sure you build your closet big enough. I do know the new requirements include electronic ignition, will you be able to get 120 volts to the closet in the future?
 
 

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