Condensation or a leak?

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Old 07-10-20, 12:14 AM
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Condensation or a leak?

I am not sure if I have a leak or the line is sweating.

I replaced the foam degenerating insulation on the hot water heater lines with rubber. Should all the lines be covered? The builder insulated all the lines, I just replaced what was there. The problem is that I see dripping water from one of the "T" junctions (see picture). Inside the insulation is damp.
Dont know if it is condensation or a leak.

If it's a leak , how hard is this to fix? There is a white rocky bits on the outside of the line in the picture.






 
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Old 07-10-20, 03:55 AM
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The only clue you give is the "cold water line" in your sketch,

If that is cold water line feeding the water heaters and you are in an un-conditioned space and its warm and humid, Id say condensation,

If it's a leak your going to have a lot of water, not just some dampness!
 
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Old 07-10-20, 04:25 AM
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Condensation does not contain minerals. If it were condensation you would only find clean water or maybe some dirt or dust that is attached to the condensation. Whenever you see mineral deposits that is coming from liquid water and is a good indication of a leak.
 
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Old 07-10-20, 08:10 AM
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Pilot Dane - This is was my first inclination it was a leak because of all the mineral deposits. These water heaters are in a hot attic in Texas.

What are the steps I needs to take to fix this?
  1. turn off water
  2. turn on cold water to remove it from the line?
  3. do I need to drain the water heaters?
  4. do I need to replace the whole "T" section?
The builder insulated both the hot and cold lines. Do the cold lines need insulation?





 
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Old 07-10-20, 09:04 AM
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What are the steps I needs to take to fix this?
  1. turn off water - Yes
  2. turn on cold water to remove it from the line? - Yes.... you can bleed some water from the system.
  3. do I need to drain the water heaters? - No
  4. do I need to replace the whole "T" section? T section? Yes- at least the tee itself.
The builder insulated both the hot and cold lines. Do the cold lines need insulation?
If there is no possible issue of freezing in the winter..... then the cold lines don't need to be insulated.

You will have to a little further away from the tee so that you can add three couplers, three short stubs of C-PVC and the new tee fitting.
 
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Old 07-10-20, 09:19 AM
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Thank you Pete!
  • - Couple more questions and I'll head out to get supplies.Whats the best way to cut out the old pipe? it is tight clearances between the pipes and hard to get to
  • - what is the best glue to use? I see some type of yellow glue on the joins
 
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Old 07-10-20, 09:54 AM
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C-PVC glue is usually yellow and sometimes orange. It must say for C-PVC on the can.

I use a small sawzall with a fine blade.
You can use a confined area saw like in the picture. All the home improvement stores carry them.



 
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Old 07-10-20, 10:09 AM
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Your sure the crud on the pipe is not from the insulation? Again, if that pipe is under pressure and there is a leak your going to get a lot of water, not just dampness.

Get a rag, dry it off and watch, if there is a leak you should see it immediately.
 
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Old 07-10-20, 11:16 AM
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Yes, it appears to be a leak. There is a slow drip from the left side of the T connector.

 
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Old 07-10-20, 11:19 AM
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This glue ok? 40 - 110 F





 
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Old 07-10-20, 11:25 AM
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No.... it must say for C-PVC pipe on it.
CPVC cement
 
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